Looking for new car
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  1. #1
    mlb
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    Default Looking for new car

    Hi All,

    I have taken up a job which is around 100km of highway driving away, and plan to communte every day. I now consequently have to buy myself a new car as my previous employment was close to home and the one family car was enough.

    The reason I am posting here is I need a bit of advice. There has been a 1983 505 GR advertised in the local paper for under $1,500 that appeals to me and I was wondering if it would be suitable. I have thus far spoken to the owner, but have not inspected the car.

    He tells me there is a small oil leak at one end of the crank shaft, I'm not sure which. He says it has something to do with the oil slinger (if that's what it's called) and has priced a new crankshaft at around $2,500 fitted. I've read an earlier post regarding a similar problem in a 504, and replacing the crank to me seems a bit excessive if it could be fixed by cleaning the breathers. Could this leak however come from somethig more sinister though? As I'll be doing a bucketload of Km's in it I want something that is going to last.

    I've also read an earlier post saying that the STi's have been run solely on ULP with no problems. Would this apply to the non-injected model too, or is it better to run some super through it every now and again?

    Any other comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Especially on what can go wrong or what to look for. Also what mileage can I expect from an average 505 of this age.

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    I like the idea of running an older car as I can do the majority of work on it myself without having a computing degree. And the amount of information available to me, especially in this forum, makes it all that bit easier.

    Cheers

    Matt

  2. #2
    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    And oil leak will make the underside of a car dirty... and your driveway... but it will never kill the car.

    All that will have to be replaced is the timing cover. It's not a real big job, there's not need for the timing chain or anything to be dismantled, but the radiator will have to come out to do it.

    That is, that's all if it's not just blocked breathers etc. Don't let this little thing stop you.

  3. #3
    mlb
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    Ok, soI have looked at the car and taken it for a decent run along the highway. Not too bad, nice to drive. There a few issues that I'll have to attend to that are purely the result of old age.

    The leak in question though seems to be from the aft end of the engine, out of the bell housing. Does this end have a slinger, and if so does anyone have any suggestions on what can be done to remedy it? It's not the leaking that concerns me, but more the effect that oil consumption will have on my running costs.

    Any assistance would be great

    Thanks

    Matt

  4. #4
    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    There's a slinger at the rear end too... or a scroll, anyway...

    It could be that the drain back into the sump there is blocked... a bit of work, but not impossible without removing the engine. But it could still be the breather blocked. Or it could even be the sump gasket.

    Oil leaks generally don't cost much in terms of oil.

  5. #5
    mlb
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    Thanks Ray,

    I gather from what you are saying is that it is not too much to be concerned about. The only reason I'm keen to be sure about it is the previous owner has had it looked at by a mechanic here. He did not know much about the setup so made calls to a Peugeot workshop for a better idea and they said it sounded like the crank would need replacing, at a cost of around $2,500. Even though I have not done any work on a system like this, from the sound of it to replace the entire crankshaft seems to be a bit of overkill. That is unless of course the slinger itself is damaged and is an integral part of the shaft. Once again, I am only guessing.

    What you say about a blocked drain could be right though as that end of the engine has got quite a bit of road grime and crap on it and the metal plate that seals the bell housing is a bit warped and not sealing properly, so it would not be hard for dust etc. to get in there I suppose.

    The only problem with all this is I cannot really start pulling things apart and looking into it until after I buy the car. But if you are confident it is probably only something minor I might go with your experience. The owner has it in his mind that it will be a big job to remedy, and because of that I may be able to get the car for less than $1,000. And I don't think I'll try to convince him otherwise.

    Thanks Again

    Matt

  6. #6
    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    Yeah, I'd go for it...

    If you're able to do the job yourself, there's no real costs involved... a gasket or two...

    I can't see how the crank might be damaged, but even if it is, there are people around here who would supply you with a good one (myself included...) for not very much money at all.

    Though it is important to understand that there was a change in the oil supply to the cranks in these later engines, and you really must be careful to use the right main bearings in the right places.

    I would expect that even if you had to delve this far in, you would not have to replace the bearings anyway. Just bolt it together. But it's unlikely that you'll have to.

    Go part with as little money as you can get away with... but don't rob the bloke!

  7. #7
    mlb
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    Ok, I went ahead and did it. I bought the 505, and managed to only part with $900 for it. It has a bit of work to do to it, but nothing major. I got the paperwork for the recent work done to it and it lookslike instead of just having a big en bearing replaced, it looks like there was a reconditioned engine fitted. I'll give the mechanic a call tomorrow and see what they can tell me..

    I'll be going ahead and giving it a full service asap, changing oil in the engine and gearbox, as well as replacing the filters and fanbelts and seeing if I can get the A/C working (at the moment there is no belt connected, so hopefully the seals in the compressor are ok as it has not been turned for over 8 months).

    It looks like a few modifications have been made to it. There is now a Weber carby fitted, which I am sure is not standard. Not sure of the type of Weber as I have not taken the air filter off, but it is a downdraft, definately not a DCOE. The car also has an electric fuel pump, which looking around does not seem to be original. Can anyone advise if this is the case or was there a mechanical one fitted to these models? I might look at getting it back to original condition. There have been other additions and removals that I'll look into and try to restore.

    Speaking of working on the car, does anyone have any recommendations on workshop manuals. I'll definately need to source one. I know Haynes put one out, but are there any others? Also where to get them would be good.

    Must admit I am looking forward to my new project. What I have looked at so far shows me that a lot of thought went into the design and construction of these cars and I am rather happy with my deicision.

    Cheers

    Matt
    Last edited by mlb; 3rd January 2005 at 11:08 PM.

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