93 405mi16 radio removal
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  1. #1
    al
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    Default 93 405mi16 radio removal

    Is there a trick to getting the standard radio out of the series 1 mi16? My (albeit aggricultural) attempts have been unsuccessful and i want to get my new head in.

    I'm finding this really frustrating - can someone please let me in on the secret.

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  2. #2
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    Howdy Al.

    What's the current unit in there?

    I've just replaced mine (it had the original in there - a Peugeot branded Clarion) and it had two holes on each side of the unit, into which a 'U' shaped piece of metal wire was inserted. This pushes back some locking tabs on the sides of the unit and allows you to pull the unit out. Without this, a piece of 2.5mm welding rod or similar would do the trick, I reckon. Incidentally, the replacement was a perfect fit, not even requiring screws to insert. You just remove the old metal surround by bending tabs outwards to allow removal, then insert the surround that comes with the new unit, bending the tabs on this surround to hold it in place. Then the new unit just inserts and clicks in. Most are like this now, all being DIN sized - they come with metal keys for removal.

    Stuey


    2003 PEUGEOT 206 GTi

  3. #3
    al
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    Thanks for that. Worked a treat...although i think there was something wrong with mine as it took ages of playing around before one of the top corners released.

    I'll fit the new unit tomorrow. Stuey, what you said about straight swap is very reassuring. It seems nothing wants to cooperate at the moment...

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    What time is this ? (yawwwn)...

    Actually Al, it was a bit of a fiddle working out the polarity of the speaker wires, especially as the Clarion used a common positive for the speakers, which I thought was weird. I just made up a soldered harness off of the car using separate wires directly to the main stereo harness plug from the plug for the new unit. (FWIW, you can test speaker polarity by touching a small 1.5V battery across the speaker wires - if the cone of the speaker moves outwards, whatever wire is on the positive battery terminal is positive).

    Stuey


    2003 PEUGEOT 206 GTi

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stuey
    What time is this ? (yawwwn)...

    Actually Al, it was a bit of a fiddle working out the polarity of the speaker wires, especially as the Clarion used a common positive for the speakers, which I thought was weird. I just made up a soldered harness off of the car using separate wires directly to the main stereo harness plug from the plug for the new unit. (FWIW, you can test speaker polarity by touching a small 1.5V battery across the speaker wires - if the cone of the speaker moves outwards, whatever wire is on the positive battery terminal is positive).

    Stuey

    clarion have what they call a coax setup on their speakers

    i have struck this before with clarion headunits where they have a common wire for all the speakers
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  6. #6
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    I just inserted a new head unit in our MI16 (1992 series 1 with the 15" wheels). As said earlier in the thread, it was incredible easy requiring no screws and the new unit slotted straight in.

    I found that the harness connecting to the head unit was actually in two sections. There was a green female connector attached to the wires from the old head unit then there was an intermediate piece of harness about 12 inches long (with a male at one end and a female connector at the other. This back end of this then plugged onto a male plug (a red brown sort of colour) attached to the actual wiring loom of the car.


    The speaker wires exiting the headunit (total of five: white with red stripe & plain white, grey with red stripe and plain grey and a single grey wire with a green stripe). I assumed the grey wire with the green stripe to be the common negative as there was a loop of wire connecting this terminal to another pin terminal at the back of the green female connector). The other four wires must be the positive feeds for each of the 2 front speaker/tweeter pairs and for the 2 rear speakers. This was confirmed by the audio installer at the outlet where I purchased the CD player - I showed him the original Clarion unit with harness attached.

    The point is that althought there was a loop for shared negative on the connector attached to the head unit, the intermediate 12 inch section that plugged into the red brown connector attached to the wiring loom had seperate negative cables for each of the speakers as this had individual negative wires for all 4 speaker positions (total eight speaker wires - I assumed the negative cables to be those with green stripes on them: two grey and two white). Therefore, I didn't use the connector from the head unit but cut the male head off the intermediate 12 inch section of loom.

    It was also important to check the location of the battery and ignition leads in the red/brown connector using a test light - locating these was pretty easy. You could see the earth was a huge thick green cable (it may have had a yellow stripe on it). Once the position of these wires was confirmed and the wires soldered up into the back half of the intermediate harness the CD player worked first kick.

    Also, there is this great insulation tubing that you can buy from Jaycar or Dick Smith. You cut a 2-3 cm section slip it over the wire, solder your connection and then slide the tubing over the joint, heat it up with a lighter and it shrinks tightly around the wiring - very neat.

    Regards and best for the new year

    Maurice

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    Maurice, my findings exactly. I also discarded the green-plugged bit of the harness - you must have had the same or similar original Clarion unit as me. That's what I meant in my last posting by 'main stereo harness plug' - the one that plugs into the car harness.

    Incidentally, I'm pretty sure that the common wiring was actually the positive terminals of the speakers, not the negative. And I also soldered and heat-shrinked the wires, to make a neat sub-harness.

    Cheers

    Stuey


    2003 PEUGEOT 206 GTi

  8. #8
    Member mbyok's Avatar
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    Dear Stuey,

    Looks like you're absolutely right.

    I yanked the head unit out, tested each of the rear leads independently using a test light at the red/brown plug on the harness at the front while earthing each of the leads to the rear speakers in turn to the body work. It seems the two grey leads on the left and right hand outside positions of the red/brown plug going into the main harness are the positives and the two brown leads in the outside positions are the negatives. I then wired up the fronts assuming the patterns was the same (didn't want to bother pulling speaker grills etc off). The front speaker positions are at the second position in from the left and right hand sides of the red/brown plug.

    Luckily by depressing the little plastic tabs that secured each of the individual pins into the female end of my ade up lead/plug I was able to remove and reaarange these succesfully - I would have hated to have to redo all the soldering and insulating.

    20 minutes later all is back in place and working fine. I didn't really notice too much difference but I am glad that it is now right. So is it that provided you have the polarity systemically reversed all around the system there is no particular problem (ie all speakers are "in phase")? Can anyone enlighten us?

    Again, thanks for the tip

    Regards

    Maurice

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