Hub nut removal
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Thread: Hub nut removal

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! Ralph's Avatar
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    Icon7 Hub nut removal

    Has any one found an easy way to remove the hub nuts from the rear axle of 504/505's? The Haynes manual says they're tightened to 250 Nm which is a fair bit. It is near impossible to get the locking tabs out of the groove in the stub axle to turn the nut freely. I measured the nut with my calipers and it was 36mm AF, is this correct? I read recently on this forum that the hub nuts are the same size as the nut on the front end of the crankshaft pulley. If so I'll buy a socket to fit as I'll need to remove this one also when I put power steering on my 505.

    Matt.



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  2. #2
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    don't worry too muc about the locking tabs

    grab a 3/4" drive socket and a good 4-6foot length of bar and put your weight on it

    it will come off but yes they are tight

    when doing them back up just do them as tight as you can with the above tool and lock the tabs into the shaft and all should be fine

    now then you need only remove this nut if you are removing the disc as the axle is only held in by 4 set screws behind the disc which you can access through the hole
    3 x '78 604 SL

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  3. #3
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    On 405s and BXs they are 35mm so just double check the size.
    Also if you check this out I think it will also give you a few clues on how some of us do it

    Mi16 Driveshaft Nut torque


    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! Ralph's Avatar
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    Icon7

    Thanks for the replies, very helpful. I have to get them apart as the two 505s are being stripped for parts.

    I've just measured the crankshaft pulley nuts on a 504 and a 505 XN1 motor and both are 35mm using my calipers. I also measured the hub nuts on 3 of my 505s and an axle from my old 504 and they measured 36mm. I priced a 36mm 3/4" drive socket at about $16 and a 3/4" bar at $40 from Mitre 10 engineering, I would have thought they'd cost more. Hopefully as someone mentioned in the Citröen Forum the 36mm will do the 35mm nuts. Alan's technique using the weight of the car to undo the nut is quite novel, I'll give that a try.

    Matt.
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  5. #5
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    you shouldn't need to take the nut off if you are stripping them for parts unless you need the discs off the axles

    the axles come out of the cars with discs attached by undoing the 4 hex headed bolts behind the disc through that hole you can see in the pic there

    you need an 8mm allen key and you just rotate the disc to line up the hole with each bolt and voila the whole axle falls out of the rear end

    just be careful removing it through the swing arm so you don't damage the boots on the way through

    this is a good idea if you don't need the discs to use straight away on another car as it keeps weather and so on out of the bearings

    by all means loosen the nut before removing the axle to make it easier to get it off at a later date but my advice is to leave the axle in one piece including the discs

    you won't need a 3/4" bar just get a 1/2-3/4" adaptor and use a good 1/2" 'T' bar with a lever

    that's all i use and don't have any troubles

    i have swung off my sidchrome 1/2" 'T' bar with longer than 6' lengths of bar without even looking like bending it you just have to make sure you have a good 'T' bar to work with

    do not use a ratchet as you will break it
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x 2018 3008

    1 x 2000 Citroen XM,

    1 x '98 306 GTi6 sadly sold

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! Ralph's Avatar
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    Rambo,


    The reason I'm taking the discs and the drive shafts off the trailing arm is that I don't want the trailing arms and space in my shed will be at a premium. I already have a 504 dismantled and will soon have 2 x 505 as parts. They are much easier to handle as smaller separate parts. I can't see the trailing arms as ever being needed in the future as a spare part in stock. If anyone wants them, let me know as they are free to good home as are 2 x 505 body parts. I will try removing the shaft and disc as one piece if I can't get the sockets though. They didn't have them in stock today.

    I intend to spray all the exposed surfaces with Inox and store them in a cupboard in my shed where practible. That should fend off the rust for a while.

    Matt.
    On the internet, no one knows that you are only wearing a fez.

  7. #7
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ralph
    Rambo,


    The reason I'm taking the discs and the drive shafts off the trailing arm is that I don't want the trailing arms and space in my shed will be at a premium. I already have a 504 dismantled and will soon have 2 x 505 as parts. They are much easier to handle as smaller separate parts. I can't see the trailing arms as ever being needed in the future as a spare part in stock. If anyone wants them, let me know as they are free to good home as are 2 x 505 body parts. I will try removing the shaft and disc as one piece if I can't get the sockets though. They didn't have them in stock today.

    I intend to spray all the exposed surfaces with Inox and store them in a cupboard in my shed where practible. That should fend off the rust for a while.

    Matt.

    i didn't mean to keep the trailing arms

    just that the axle complete with disc comes out without needing to touch the axle nut if the only purpose is to strip for parts

    that way the whole axle to disc is in one piece and ready to throw in another car if need be

    only takes about 30 mins to change a rear axle on a 504/5-604 and that includes the time to jack the car up
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x 2018 3008

    1 x 2000 Citroen XM,

    1 x '98 306 GTi6 sadly sold

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0

  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger! Ralph's Avatar
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    Rambo,

    I agree totally with what you are saying, the driveshafts and discs can be removed as one piece, I can see how this is possible as I have removed a shaft from a trailing arm. What I tried to infer (although done very badly) was once the axle/disc assembly is removed from the trailing arm how do you remove the disc from the axle? What part of the assembly do you clamp in the vice? 250Nm when tightened and as Ray explained, is a lot tighter when being undone after a few years.

    This was in the back of my mind when I posted the last reply, one of those things you realise after reviewing your posts and the very helpful replies.

    Matt.
    Last edited by Ralph; 30th December 2004 at 12:10 AM.
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  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger! Ralph's Avatar
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    I bought a 3/4" sliding drive bar for $41 and a 3/4" 36mm Sidchrome socket for $26 today from Mitre10.

    Matt.
    On the internet, no one knows that you are only wearing a fez.

  10. #10
    Tadpole
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    Default Exchanging driveshafts on 505

    Some Advice please

    I have a Series 2 505 GTI and a wrecked 81 505 Diesel.

    I have some wheel bearing noise from the rear wheels on the GTI and need to replace the bearings. The bearings in my 505 Diesel are fine, and I replaced the outer boots recently.

    So my question is - The early 505 Diesel has a straight cut spline on the outside (ie disc end) whereas the GTI (so I believe) has a helical cut spline on that end - BUT - are the splines on the Diff end of the shaft the same.

    What I am asking - abeit very badly - are the driveshafts from an 81 505 Diesel compatible with the shafts on an 87 505 GTI?????? If so, I will simply take Pugrambos approach and pull the shafts out of diesel and whack them in the GTI with new diff seals - one of these is starting to leak.

    Any advice appreciated!!!!!

    Cheers

    Ian
    Nambucca Heads

  11. #11
    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    505 driveshafts are longer, though they might well work. Certainly the spline at the diff end is the same.

  12. #12
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    can't see why you would have any troubles

    they are both 505 axles so just swap the whole axle over
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x 2018 3008

    1 x 2000 Citroen XM,

    1 x '98 306 GTi6 sadly sold

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0

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