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  1. #51
    Fellow Frogger! pips's Avatar
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    I looked, and I bought!

    I went to see the one in out at Windsor this afternoon.

    Paint was immaculate except for the lower right hand side skirt behind the passanger door (right at the bottom) has been crushed slightly due to the owner driving into a rock feature at ground level and cracking it. I think its easy to fix (I could do a semi decent job on the plasti welding) but I might just take it to someone I know for a better and cheaper job.

    The engine is great. No leaks, no noises, gear changes are smoother then the one that had the paint issues. No CV joint noise, 2nd owner, known history, etc. Its white (I don't like red cars).

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    Bargained down the price to something reasonable. From $5K to $4.5K Because there was nothing really wrong with it. Front Discs need machining. I can do that at for nothing but the cost of my own time.

    The aircon was re-gassed, but it wasn't Cold. It was cooler then outside, but not really aircon. So, I duno if its a leak or in need of a new compressor. Looking at the forum archives, the compressor seems like a major issue, price wise. I'm not a big air con fan and neither is my wife, so really its not that big of a deal, but sometimes its nice to cool the car down nicely. And if its there, I want to use it.

    Other then that. the interior is good and clean. The dash has those famous cracks. It has the BE2 gearbox, reverse gear is next to 5th (under it).

    If anything, the car just needs alittle bit of a freshening up. The wife was trying to figure out why the car had power windows but the back was wind-up? I told her that the brand new BA Falcon has power windows, wind-up at the back.

    Oh, the two other things that stood out was the fuel gauge was faulty. Not sure if its the sender unit (in the tank, I assume) or the gauge itself. And the speedo was jumping all over the place. Now, I was told from the current owners that the speedo corrects itself after a long drive. Drawing from my limited knoweldge and life as a bike mechanic, this is a sign that the speedo cable is about to snap.

    So, what I wanted to know was, How much would a new speedo cable cost? I could fit it after I get a workshop manual to see where it goes and all that. Also, the fuel gauge... How would I test what it is? If its the sender unit (I think its just a potentiometer) then are these easy to replace?

    With motorcycles we had to drain the tank, pull the sender unit out, fit a new gasket if needed and refit the new unit. I know it would be that simple with the car also, but any elaborating details would be nice.

    I'll have piccies of it in a few days.

    Thanks
    pips

  2. #52
    who? when? huh? GTI124's Avatar
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    Awesome! Congratulations on the new car! Great to see the search finally pay off for you

  3. #53
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    Howdy Pips; good one! The others will correct me if I'm wrong, but my Mi16 has the manual rear windows and I think this only came on what's referred to as the 'series 1.5' which was aimed at coming in under the luxury car tax threshold. Has yours got 15" wheels? Mine was built July '90.

    Stuey


    2003 PEUGEOT 206 GTi

  4. #54
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    i think only the full luxury packs got the 4 power windows but i can't be sure

    i know my old one did but it was an 89 lux pack
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  5. #55
    Fellow Frogger! pips's Avatar
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    Yeah, its got the 15" alloys. Its also got the standard Peugeot Cassette Radio as well as Peugeot headlight protectors.

    It's even got this magazine that came with the car at the time, telling of the Peugeot story, history, etc.

    I'll be picking it up tomorrow, somehow. Small issue is, I have no mates around this neck of the woods and the car is about an hours (nice) drive. I'm gonna have to go Sydney public transport.

    Could anyone comment on the little things that need fixing? the dash, the side skirt, the fuel gauge, speedo, and all the other things I mentioned before.

    I will more then likely be machining the front discs as soon as I get it home. I'd like the speedo fixed ASAP as I don't really want to get double demerits on my mug shot. So, lets hope its just a speedo cable... that is, if its a cable. Or is it electronic? Fingers crossed its not.. I don't want to start playing with Hall effect sensors and stuff... the wife is going to love that.. HAHAHA

    pips

  6. #56
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    Hi

    The speedo is cable driven & the cable is a right pain to change.

    The fuel gauge sender is located under the rear seat, Just unclip the seat base, Its held in with just 2 clips at the front & remove it.
    Under the black plastic cover in the floor is the access to the fuel gauge sender.

    You could always remove the side skirt & repair it off the car or get a perfect second hand one & fit that.

    Also the rear windows, On the U.K. spec Mi16s & the later Le-Mans the rear windows where electricly operated as standard from launch back in June 1988, Also ABS was standard too.

  7. #57
    Fellow Frogger! pips's Avatar
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    Ah, cool that its cable driven. A pain to replace? that's ok. I have learnt some interesting methods from being a bike mechanic...as easy as it sounds for a bike, some of them are not. I had to disassemble an entire cluster/gauge panel to get to the back of the panel once. This was easy, until I had to re-assemble it all. Reassembly included having to fit the needles back onto the face of the dials. We couldn't just plonk them back on at Zero because the spring tension would be way off. So, we started the bike, they idle at 1100RPM, so I had someone sit on the bike as it was tied down, but with the wheels off the ground. Stuck the needle of 1100RPM while checking the electronic tacho we put on the bike for reference. Then the speedo needle. I knew that the bike did 80km/h in top gear and was revving at 4000RPM. So, into gear, start off, while a workmake is sitting on the bike, ridding it. Puts it into 6th gear, revs it to 4000RPM, I stick the needle on the 80km/h part. We stop the bike, he gets off...shaking..haha. took it for a test riding with someone on another bike. Both of us sitting on 60, 80, 100, 2xx km/h..I won't go into further details. Both of us putting thumbs up when we hit that speed, which worked out to be the same. I was proud of that... I also got apprentice of the year that year.

    Now, that is a pain of a speedo to change.

    Good to hear that the fuel gauge sender is on top of the tank. I assume that I don't have to drain the tank and drop it out from underneith the car. Nice to hear that the rear seat is so easy to remove. Should I get the sender unit for a wrecker or go brand new? What sort of price am I looking at for essentially $2 worth of parts (that's what the bike ones are like).

    Yeah, just for cosmetics and general tiding up, I'd either replace the sideskirt or repair it. Ofcourse, taking it off the car for ease.

    Thanks for that info. Very educational... haha.

    pips
    Last edited by pips; 28th December 2004 at 08:57 AM.

  8. #58
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    Hi

    If you look along the front of the bottom of the rear seat base you will see 2 x metal clips pushed in to 2 brackets in the body shell, You just unclip them by lifting the middle of the rear seat base upwards & then feed the rear seat belt buckles & lap belt through the slots in the seat & lift the seat base out.

    Unclip the black plastic cover to get at the sender unit, You are ment to have a special tool to undo the locking ring, But you can undo it without this.

    Ive no idea how much a sender unit is from Peugeot, Check the plug to the unit first & confirm it is a faulty sender before splashing out on another one.

    You are in for a fun time with the speedo cable, Just make sure the engines cold when you do it so you dont burn your hands on the exhaust manifold, Theres a bracket on the bulkhead behind the exhaust manifold, Make sure you clip the new cable to this else it could touch the manifold & melt!

    Make sure when you install the new cable you keep nice big curves in it when it goes behind the manifold & then again when it goes in to the bulkhead.

    Theres a rubber grommit built into the cable, Make sure that locates in the bulkhead.

    I warn you now, Attaching the cable to the back of the speedo is a right pain!
    String comes in handy for this, lol
    Last edited by LeePower; 28th December 2004 at 08:42 AM.

  9. #59
    Fellow Frogger! pips's Avatar
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    I think I have a tools just right for the job.

    A short section of a metal wire coat hanger (10cm) with a loop on one end with a thin 2mm rope tied to it, to be used for the speedo cable.

    And for the sender unit, the get that "nut" off. If my imagination is pretty good, would it be one of those round nuts with just two opposing slots cut out? If so, this would be similar to both the rear suspension pre-load adjustment nut and the steering head bearing pre-load nut. Which are usually really flat, castle nuts. Looks more like a sproket with square teeth, or just one slot on each side. I have a special tool for that.

    pips
    Last edited by pips; 28th December 2004 at 12:16 PM.

  10. #60
    Fellow Frogger! pips's Avatar
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    I pick up the beauty today.

    Will be doing the discs first up. Calling pug shops for a speedo.

    Although, searching through the forums last night, I found that there is a place in Melb that makes custom speedos for like $20-$30 compared to approximately $70 Peugeot charge for their one. And the custom one is made longer for us RHDrivers. Can anyone elaborate on this? Give me details on where I can get more info on this, or just bite the bullet and get the standard one?

    I will also be calling up for the fuel sender unit. But I will test it first. Check the resistance of the sender unit, and if that's ok, check the plugs, wires, and finally the gauge. But I think first of all, I will check the fuse. I've seen many headaches from pulling things apart, to find nothing wrong. Then accidently finding that the fuse was blown. Me being one of those many.

    Thanks for all the info you guys have given me. It's been a big help.

    pips

  11. #61
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pips
    I pick up the beauty today.

    Will be doing the discs first up. Calling pug shops for a speedo.

    Although, searching through the forums last night, I found that there is a place in Melb that makes custom speedos for like $20-$30 compared to approximately $70 Peugeot charge for their one. And the custom one is made longer for us RHDrivers. Can anyone elaborate on this? Give me details on where I can get more info on this, or just bite the bullet and get the standard one?

    pips

    There was a BX owner from Newcastle who bought one of those cables you refer to. I can't speak for the Mi16 but on the BX, they skimped on length, as a result the actual shortness can in itself tend to cause stress on where it firts into the actual speedo head and if you looked trough those threads, you'll see a description I once did on fitting to a BX and I have no reason to think an Mi16 would be any different.
    Peter swore by the cable he got; fraction of the price of genuine and fitted better and seemed to even be better quality.
    I tried to use the same company to have a clutch cable made up but found them a bit hard to deal with in that instance due to them wanting the old cable to be sent down as a sample but then discovering there were items on it that couldn't be purchased or swapped over but I don't think this applied to the speedo cable Peter got.
    Pretty quick delivery right to your door too.

    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  12. #62
    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    Alan... there's a place in Sydney, though I can't right now think of the name, who do a magic job of clutch and handbrake cables, and very well priced too.

    I had them do the special cables I needed when I fitted 504 rear calipers to my 404 wagon. They're in Mascot or somewhere nearby, very old company, the office and foyer walls are full of letters from John Curtin thanking them for making stuff for bombers etc during the war.

  13. #63
    Fellow Frogger! pips's Avatar
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    I picked up the 405 this morning. Been driving it around since then. Just got home now.

    A few issues that I didn't notice at all when giving it an extensive test drive.

    It started to idle high (just like the one with the lux pack I saw). I'd blip the throttle, it would come down to about 1000RPM then slowly rise again. When the coolant temp hit about 90 Degrees Celsius, the idle went down to 1000RPM, sometimes it would actually idle at the specific RPM, about 850RPM.

    I am not sure what this could be. A vacuum hose leak? Injectors needing a cleanup? Idle stepper motor faulty? Not sure.

    Also, what's even more scary that I didn't notice at all during my test drive the other day was after a while of driving, when turning the steering wheel, it doesn't feel smooth and there are noises. Would this be power steering pump? or the actual Power steering unit? or bad joints?

    I also noticed that when decelerating, the car steers very slightly to the right. Worn bushes maybe?

    I might take it into Pedders or Midas or something this week to have one of those 28 point safety checks done or something. Or should I take it to a Pug specialist instead? I might try and find that guy someone found that works from his backyard for cheap, in Lugarno.

    How much would a power steering rack cost?

    Its funny. I test drove the car for 45 mins and the steering was fine, idle never played up. But within 20 mins of driving the car away after paying all that money. It plays up. HAHA.

    The wife is going to kill me.

    Anyway, here are some pics of it.

    pips but
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Still looking.-pug_1.jpg   Still looking.-pug_2.jpg   Still looking.-pug_3.jpg  
    Last edited by pips; 29th December 2004 at 04:57 PM.

  14. #64
    who? when? huh? GTI124's Avatar
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    Congrats again! Looks nice in white!

    I'd be taking the car to somewhere like East Coast Suspension in Kirawee, rather than wasting your money at a Peddars.

  15. #65
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    I'd be sticking with the Pommy guy at Lugarno if he's got a few clues on French cars; you know you've got trouble when you go into some of these other characters joints and you're greeted with the words "A Puujoe hey??" followed by the warning of how expensive they are to repair. This Mark is a Froggy mechanic so if there's any tricks to them he'll already know them not find out as he goes along.
    I saw a 'specialist' auto electricians a while back who was working on a Pug and had to tell him how to get to the alternator; he came across and asked me when I called into the servo where he was working and was obviously in more strife than Nurse Mitchell. These franchise places are OK for working on Dunnydores and Fowlcans but they soon get lost on anything else although they possibly wouldn't mind the experience; after all, you'd be paying for it. It could be something as simple as balljoint tightening up through grease degradation.

    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  16. #66
    Fellow Frogger! pips's Avatar
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    I shall call him then, at Lugarno.

    I have discovered that the power steering belt is the culprit. It slips, the steering shudders. When it doesn't slip, its fine. Will not drive the car around much until I tension that belt up, or have a look at getting a new one. Should only be around $10.

    The idle thing has settled down now. But without an actual electronic tacho (I use to have one when I worked on bikes), I can't tell what revs its really sitting at. But the thing is, I have not adjusted anything.

    I did play around with a vacuum hose, one that looks like it goes from the fuel rail regulator to the plenum chamber. I pulled that out and the engine did the same thing is was doing in traffic. I really couldn't see any other vaccuum hoses around though.

    I will talk to the guy in Lugarno (nice and close) and if the pwr steering belt fixes it. I won't bother with Kirrawee until something else comes up.

    I called a few Pug dealers today, no one answered, so it looks like they are closed till after new years. Well, I might just play with the fuel gauge sender unit to see what happens.

    The car came with a Haynes workshop manual. But this thing Ces Mérde (or whatever!). There are no specifications other then bolt torque specs. I duno if the sender unit or coolant temp sensor or whatever electronic device that gives the ECU something to work with is within spec or what. It could be the gauge, the wiring, the unit, maybe the float bulb cracked and filled with petrol!!!

    I might just get myself another manual if possible. This one that came with it has also seen better days...not used much, just very old and tatty. The paper is brown and falling off its bindings.

    Thanks. the pug looks good in white.

    I added the lens flare myself. haha

    pips

  17. #67
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    pips, I don't think there are other brands of workshop manual available. If you do find one, please tell...

    Another useful thing is that Pugrambo sells Peugeot parts CD's which have quite useful blow ups.

    Stuey


    2003 PEUGEOT 206 GTi

  18. #68
    Fellow Frogger! pips's Avatar
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    Gregory's makes workshop manuals as well.

    I just have not looked into it to see if there is one for the pug though.

    Either way, I must get this power steering fixed first. Then the fuel sender, then the speedo.

    Yay! I now own a pug. More work to do.

    Would repco, supercheap or some auto shop sell a belt for the power steering of the 405? Its a tiny little belt.

    So, know of any "GOOD" wreckers for pugs? I looked in the Yellow Pages and found two that are relatively local. Arncliffe and Peakhurst.

    I've racked up 200 kays today, driving around. Picked the car up from Bligh Park, went to Parramatta, then home, then around the block a hundred times , then to Fox Studios. Starting to worry about the fuel running out. I could just fill it! haha.

    pips

  19. #69
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    pips, that's what I'm saying - I'm pretty sure that there isn't another brand of manual for the 405 (English language, anyway). I'd be very surprised if Gregory's did one. I know there are other brands in existence...

    (It's like that, isn't it? I go out every day in mine just for the heck of it. Mind you, it encourages sliding around corners balancing on the throttle, which is going to get me in trouble on public roads. It does howl more than I expected...)

    Stuey


    2003 PEUGEOT 206 GTi

  20. #70
    Fellow Frogger! pips's Avatar
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    I just drove my mother to the doctors, and I went to pick up some new guitar strings. I noticed that now the idle is back to (almost) normal. I might inspect the idle motor and give a WD40. Are there any rubber parts inside it? I was thinking of Carbi Clean and blowing it out. But if there is rubber, forget it. the Carbi Clean will destroy it.

    I've been looking through the workshop manual, there are specs scattered throughout the manual. It's just set out totally different to what I am use to with most workshop manuals. But its not as indepth as I thought it would be.

    Ah well. I tell ya what, its tight in the engine bay. It feels like I am working on a Honda motorcycle. Very tight. I am after all a big boy!

    The seating is alittle small for me too, but its snug! hahah.

    Its good to have power to keep up with traffic again. My 4X4 was very slow, but could pull a tree stump out in 2nd gear.

    You are right. I looked at all other workshop manual publishers and the Haynes one is the only one.

    pips

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