Air Con Fuse
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Thread: Air Con Fuse

  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Default Air Con Fuse

    G'day!

    My air conditioner fuse has blown and I'm dying in the Sydney heat!

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    Has anyone else had this problem with their 306 and what was the cause? Fan motor??



    Al

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts Stone Free's Avatar
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    HI Al!

    Does it all work okay once you put a new fuse in??

    I have heard of this problem having something to do with the climate control computer. There is a simple fix where you by-pass the xenor diode which protects against a power spike. This is the cheapest option as a new climate control computer can be about $1100 (although 2nd hand can be about $300).

    Anyone else with ideas??
    The AWARD WINNING 1998 Blaze Yellow 306 GTi6


    ......and a Series 3 205GTi on the side.



    "I enjoy telling people what to do, because I am an arrogant rock star. That's what I do. That's my job." Gene Simmons, ROCK SCHOOL.

  3. #3
    Tadpole
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    Default Air con fuse

    Thanks Stone Free,

    Fuse blows immediately as it is replaced. I can't even test it with the condensor off as it's an electronic button. i.e. the fuse blows b4 I have a chance to turn it off!

  4. #4
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    Maybe you could try a higher amp fuse and use it just long enough to turn the condenser off, then replace it with the standard fuse (assuming it doesn't automatically come back on when you restart the car)?

    Or you could do what I used to do with my old Valiant during Uni days - replace any fuses that blow with paper clips...

    Cheers

  5. #5
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    Be grateful you don't own a 604. The compressor and heatsink fan are on separate fuses, so if anything on the fan circuit blows that fuse,the compressor keeps going....
    By the time you notice the air's not cold anymore your compressor is expensively stuffed.

    Actually, I suspect the airconditioning and ventilation systems for the 604 were designed by a committee of Frenchmen after a long lunch.
    Or perhaps the office Christmas Party: where else would you get the idea of building something that can make it snow inside the cabin?

  6. #6
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    the only trouble i have ever had with A/C in a 604 was when i had condensation drip onto the stereo and stopped the music

    i have to get the A/C gassed in the 604 here but i am waiting till i retorque the heads before i do that but the last 604 i had blew out beautiful cold air (R12 gas)
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x 2018 3008

    1 x 2000 Citroen XM,

    1 x '98 306 GTi6 sadly sold

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Default Fault Finding Fuses Which Blow Instantly

    Quote Originally Posted by Dodgy Tone
    Maybe you could try a higher amp fuse and use it just long enough to turn the condenser off, then replace it with the standard fuse (assuming it doesn't automatically come back on when you restart the car)?

    Or you could do what I used to do with my old Valiant during Uni days - replace any fuses that blow with paper clips...

    Cheers

    With respects don't use an over rated fuse . You stand to do a lot more damage. If it was simple intiially to fix: it probably won't be after the "paper" clip is fitted.

    I worked as bench techi on high power audio direct coupled amplifiers for many years. Blowing fuses was classic fault and often very hard to fault find because the unit under test would run for a few milliseconds and then blow the fuse.

    I devised a simple system for testing - these units had a supply of 100volts odd, so I would remove the fuse and put a 100w 110 volt household lamp across the fuse terminals. The lamp lights up when there is a short and gives a chance to take measurements, albeit inaccurate, to find ourt where the fault was.


    In the case of a car - remove the fuse and put car headlight globe across the fuse it will probably light to full brilliance indicating a dead short.

    You can then try disconnecting things and if the lamp drops to dull glow then you are making progress. If it goes out then you may disconnected the whole lot or have found the fault.

    Remember a headlight globe is about 60 watts taking 5 amps at 12 volt. If the fuse you are replacing is say 10 amps you should have a lamp of less than 120 watts (10 amps.


    Best of luck

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by pugrambo
    the only trouble i have ever had with A/C in a 604 was when i had condensation drip onto the stereo and stopped the music

    ...but the last 604 i had blew out beautiful cold air (R12 gas)
    Ah yes, beautiful cold air....blasting out of a foot-square hole in the dashboard right next to your left hand, with only two settings: Very Cold and Freezing.

    I said 604s were designed by drunk Frenchmen: that doesn't mean I don't like them.

    I also have had condensation stop the music, but that was a 205.

  9. #9
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Certifiable
    Ah yes, beautiful cold air....blasting out of a foot-square hole in the dashboard right next to your left hand, with only two settings: Very Cold and Freezing.

    I said 604s were designed by drunk Frenchmen: that doesn't mean I don't like them.

    I also have had condensation stop the music, but that was a 205.

    while i was down at teh auto spark the other day i asked about different gasses for A/C and apparently there is one that can go straight into an old R12 system and you needn't change valves or anything else and is compatible with the oil that was used in the R12

    143B or something like that

    anyway i will see what the story is with it and give it a go

    saves changing the system over in the 604 to R134A

    on topic now have you tried disconnecting the fans to see if they are drawing too much current ?

    or do the fans still cut in when the car gets hot ?
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x 2018 3008

    1 x 2000 Citroen XM,

    1 x '98 306 GTi6 sadly sold

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0

  10. #10
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Default Refrigerants

    Quote Originally Posted by pugrambo
    while i was down at teh auto spark the other day i asked about different gasses for A/C and apparently there is one that can go straight into an old R12 system and you needn't change valves or anything else and is compatible with the oil that was used in the R12

    143B or something like that

    anyway i will see what the story is with it and give it a go

    saves changing the system over in the 604 to R134A

    on topic now have you tried disconnecting the fans to see if they are drawing too much current ?

    or do the fans still cut in when the car gets hot ?



    Hi Rambo,


    The original refrigerant is would have been R12 -supposed to bad for the ozone layer. Typical hi side (condensing) pressure of 150 psi

    Then they came up with R134a which was a non ozone depleting alternative -But it has a much higher hi side pressure of around 300-500 psi . To cope with this much bigger condenser and fans were needed.

    Clearly not a drop in replacement for R12.

    The industry found a solution: ER12 - environmentaly friendly R12
    This is in a derivation of LPgas so it is flammable but the 700gm odd the system holds is little risk compared to the petrol or lpg used to propel the car.
    Pressure are very similar to R12.

    ER12 is the go unless you want increase the condenser, purge the system, change the oil and use R134a

    This info may be a few years out of date, I haven't done any air con work -except units for home - for about 5 years

    There may well be drop replacements for R12 which are better than ER12


    regards



    Rob

  11. #11
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    he did mention something that sounded similar to 134a but it had a B in it

    i wouldn't run LP gas in the car full stop

    he also said something about the new gas bieng compatible with vege oil or mineral oil or whatever R12 had in it
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x 2018 3008

    1 x 2000 Citroen XM,

    1 x '98 306 GTi6 sadly sold

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0

  12. #12
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Hi

    Click the link, Then click on "Electrical" at the top, Then click on "Short Circuit in 306 A/C" in the list on the left hand side under "A/C Heater"

    The fault & the fix is shown in great detail

    http://www.peugeotlogic.com/workshop/base/workshop.htm

  13. #13
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Default Er 12

    Quote Originally Posted by pugrambo
    he did mention something that sounded similar to 134a but it had a B in it

    i wouldn't run LP gas in the car full stop

    he also said something about the new gas bieng compatible with vege oil or mineral oil or whatever R12 had in it
    Rambo,

    ER12 is NOT LP gas. It is purpose built refrigerant that shares similar properties to LPG (different only in molecule count) it is an industry standard refrigerant (or was a few years ago)

    Re-reading I can see how my post was ambigious !

    ER 12 is OK to use.

  14. #14
    Tadpole
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    Default Cheap fix for 306 Climate control unit

    Thanks to Stone Free and Lee Power!

    Ripping out the xenor diode has fixed my problem and saved me $1,000.

    Anyone with a 306 should check Lee Power's link and remember it for when their Air Con fuse mysteriously blows...

    Thanks again

  15. #15
    1000+ Posts Stone Free's Avatar
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    Maybe you could come down and fix mine up, it's still not working! Mind you my fuses are still intact so it is probably someting else.
    The AWARD WINNING 1998 Blaze Yellow 306 GTi6


    ......and a Series 3 205GTi on the side.



    "I enjoy telling people what to do, because I am an arrogant rock star. That's what I do. That's my job." Gene Simmons, ROCK SCHOOL.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Al
    Thanks to Stone Free and Lee Power!

    Ripping out the xenor diode has fixed my problem and saved me $1,000.

    Anyone with a 306 should check Lee Power's link and remember it for when their Air Con fuse mysteriously blows...

    Thanks again
    I'm having the same problem with my A/C blowing fuses.

    This started happening the day after I had my compressor serviced.

    1. Is it possible that during the work done on the compressor some wiring was accidently short circuited, and blown something in the control panel. (the system was working fine when I collected the car)

    2. The above fix mentions removing a diode. Can't the diode be replaced?

    Any help much appreciated.

    Thanks

    Arthur

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