Removal of Mi16 Alternator?
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  1. #1
    Cal
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    Default Removal of Mi16 Alternator & talk about various exotic British cats!

    Clearly getting no response on the other thread, so I thought I'd start again. My alternator has died and I need to fix it ASAP. My car is a series one with the ABS in the way if I was to try to get it out from the top. Doesn't look like it's coming out from under the guared either. Is the best method to remove the inlet manifold? If so, what a bloody stupid design.

    Cheers,

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    Cal.
    Last edited by Cal; 29th July 2004 at 10:03 AM.
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  2. #2
    Cal
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    Thanks mate. I have a manual somewhere. Just can't find it. Might be easier to pull the inlet off. Shit, forgot about the gasket.

    My dad has a V12 XJS. Takes about 6hrs to even be able to see the alternator.

    Cheers,

    Cal.
    1995 Mazda MX5 - 2F Race Car
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  3. #3
    Cal
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    It is a 1977 XJS with 45000kms on the clock. He bought it new. Twice national concourse winner and won it's class at the Qld concourse most times it entered.

    Cal.
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    Cal
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    The inner guard has been off for a month or so. I had the bearing in the tensioner pulley sieze. I put a different one on, but still need to replace the belt as it got a bit warped from the shock of the bearing siezing. Spent a bit of time down that side of the engine. I did an engine rebuild on it 50 000kms ago. I looked at it all again last night. I reckon the easiest way is going to be pulling the inlet manifold off. Thanks for you help and advice.

    The ex-Walker XJS lives up here now. Somewhere on the Sunshine coast. That thing is a weapon. He built two. The black one has about 750-800hp and the silver one had 1050hp. The current owner of the black car runs it at the Noosa Hillclimb and Pittsworth Sprints each year. Alan S was telling me his son goes out with the daughter of the owner. Atleast that's how I remember the story going.

    Cheers,

    Cal.
    1995 Mazda MX5 - 2F Race Car
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    1977 Jaguar XJS V12
    1971 Morris Mini 1100K
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  5. #5
    Tadpole scotsman's Avatar
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    Default removal of mi16 alternator

    this is what i do in here the uk.
    take off inlet manifold as said previously - first, don't remove the alternator, instead, remove the brush pack and check that the brushes are ok (springs, length of brushes & braid) if brushes are well worn buy a brush pack from lucas (about 9GBP)

    ps. i noticed there's a pug 405 workshop manual (pdf) on yahoo (autos.groups.yahoo.com)
    ....... to infinity aaand beyonddddddd !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  6. #6
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    Just a "qwikky"

    Both those cars are owned by the same people these days; but I think you've got the power assabout; the black is the more powerful of the two.
    It had a Haltech fitted to it thatw as plumbed in a very strange way; as an 8 and a 4 cylinder apparently.
    I think Brad (my son) has since wired in a MoTec and they had it on the rolling road a few weeks back.
    The silver one has had ongoing temp problems that I think they have just about got sorted now.
    Incidentally, that was the owners daughter with him at Brisbane FCD.

    As far as the alternator goes, on a BX16V they aren't all that big a deal to haul out under the wheel arch. If you do a search on this forum, eithet Jason20 or Madbiker had one out a few weeks ago and eventually worked the easiest way to go.

    Cal, if you are still haveing problems, give us a call tonight as I think Brad will be here & may be able to give you some finer points if needed.
    Gotta fly for now.


    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  7. #7
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    I know it definitely wasn't MoTec. If this had been asked 24 hours ago I could have asked as the owners were here visiting.
    The rear tyres I think are about 15" wide and whilst it gets up & goes, it's a lot different to say a BX16V or an Mi16 as it seems to have to be gunned to get cracking whereas with our type of cars, they can tend to want to jump out from under you possibly due to the large weight it has to carry.
    It caught fire again about 12 months back due to a sloppy mechanic tightening a not too tight and cracking it and my son did a complete rewire on it and reset the tuning before it went onto the rolling road; I'm pretty sure it was at this point when the MoTec went in.
    I know that once Brad started doing the work on the ECU before the fire, that at Gatton its time went from 53 seconds a lap (driver trying & hoping for a 50 second time) to 44 on the first practice run the following year.
    It didn't make Gatton last year due to the fire damage but should get there next time around.

    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  8. #8
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    I'll find out if it's been entered for the Pittsworth Sprints in a few weeks.
    We'll have the series one BX16V hopefully finished by then if all the bits arrive on time so there'll be a couple worth looking at.
    Ours hopefully should raise a few eyebrows this year.

    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  9. #9
    Cal
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    Quote Originally Posted by jester_fu
    The only thing of 'repute' in our area, in the way of Jag's, was a D-Type at port Stephens.. my dad got to see it, as he did a rego check on it.. but the guy sold it to an OS fan
    You certain it wasn't that perfect replica which went to the US? Ian Cummins had this replica for sale recently:
    1995 Mazda MX5 - 2F Race Car
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  10. #10
    Cal
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    There was a car built on the Gold Coast by Don Biggar in the late 80's. It was built using original parts. I was at the national rally in 1988 (I was 14) when the Ian Cummins (ex Bill Pitt) real D-Type was next to it. There is no way they could be picked apart. It is said that the only difference is it wasn't constructed at Browns Lane. As far as I was aware XKD526 was one of only two real D-Type's to ever come to Australia. They other was Jack Davey's car which was used as a road car. It would be a shame if either has left our shores. I found an article which mentions XKD526 and the Biggar replica : http://www.jagqld.org.au/Bulletin/bill_pitt.htm

    Cheers,

    Cal.
    Last edited by Cal; 28th July 2004 at 04:05 PM.
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  11. #11
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    Not meaning to break up our little "jagfest" but as my ISP decided to shut up shop yeaserday from about 3pm until 6 this morn, what's the latest with the alternator removal/fix?


    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  12. #12
    Cal
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    Please, we are talking about cats here

    Neil had an alternator that came off his Mi16 motor when he bought it. I got it tested yesterday. Seems to be working fine. I have decided the easiest way to do the job is to remove the intake manifold. i will undertake the job Saturday morning. As the rear pads on the MX5 have gone to metal, I am driving Neil's 205 Mi16 at the moment. Can't believe I have 2 cars and they are both off the road at once.

    Now, back to Jags.

    Cal.
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    All the old TWR moulds for the racing body kits were sold to the people who own the Walker Jags.
    These are the same as the kits on Walkinshaw's, Percy's and Goss's cars.
    I don't know if they've made any up yet but I was looking at them about 12 months ago, just after they collected them.


    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  14. #14
    Cal
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan S
    These are the same as the kits on Walkinshaw's, Percy's and Goss's cars.
    You sure about that Alan. Strangely enough the TWR race cars didn't have the bodykit fitted to the TWR road cars. They just had standard bodies.

    Period photo

    Goodwood Festival of Speed 2004

    Here's the TWR road car

    Last edited by Cal; 29th July 2004 at 03:40 PM.
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  15. #15
    Cal
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    You might be thinking of the 1984 Group C XJS that ran at Bathurst. Burnt the clutch on the line. It had large flared guards. Haven't found a photo yet.

    Got the inlet manifold gaskets today. I'll be swapping the alternators over on Saturday morning.

    Cal.
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  16. #16
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    From memory, these were front & rear & possibly skirts.I rememebr a biiiiiig spoiler and front air dam & yes I think the Group C is the car I'm thinking of...a la' John Goss from memory??

    BTW, did you check up on those other threads as I'm sure it will come out the top. I think Neil (cruiserman) may have been involved in it too.


    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  17. #17
    Cal
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan S
    BTW, did you check up on those other threads as I'm sure it will come out the top. I think Neil (cruiserman) may have been involved in it too.


    Alan S
    If the car didn't have ABS it might come out the top easier. The more I look at it, the more logical it seems to pull the inlet off. I'll be attacking it about 8am tomorrow morning. I have to go to work at 2pm. Shouldn't take more than a couple of hours.

    Cal.
    1995 Mazda MX5 - 2F Race Car
    1990 Mercedes 300TE
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    1977 Jaguar XJS V12
    1971 Morris Mini 1100K
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  18. #18
    Cal
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    I did the job over the weekend. The easiest way would be to remove the inlet manifold. However, my A/C compressor needed changing anyhow. So I took it out the bottom. Ended up having to release a radiator hose and take the oil filter out. It really is a stupid design to have an alternator in that position. Anyhow I put new brushes in mine and got it tested. It's all back together and working fine. Total cost = $35.

    Cheers,

    Cal.
    1995 Mazda MX5 - 2F Race Car
    1990 Mercedes 300TE
    1990 Mercedes 230E
    1977 Jaguar XJS V12
    1971 Morris Mini 1100K
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  19. #19
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Good stuff where did you get the brushes from

  20. #20
    Cal
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    Local Auto Electrician fitted them for me Saturday lunch time.

    Cal.
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    1977 Jaguar XJS V12
    1971 Morris Mini 1100K
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