Another 205 GTI with Engine problems
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  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Default Another 205 GTI with Engine problems

    Hi Guys,

    recently my 205 has been having some problems...

    Let me explain:

    it also most happens every time i start it now.

    I start the car and runs perfectly for about 15secs then it just cuts out, whether i have my foot on the accelerator or off.

    I go to start it again but it doesnt kick over - if i then wait for about 5mins and then try to start it again it runs (usually - might have to wait a little more, or it will do the 15sec thing again) and the car will be OK for the drive home from work or to work (20-30min drive, with traffic and lights - so start and stop conditions).

    Does anyone have an idea where i should look???

    Matt E

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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by matte
    Hi Guys,

    recently my 205 has been having some problems...

    Let me explain:

    it also most happens every time i start it now.

    I start the car and runs perfectly for about 15secs then it just cuts out, whether i have my foot on the accelerator or off.

    I go to start it again but it doesnt kick over - if i then wait for about 5mins and then try to start it again it runs (usually - might have to wait a little more, or it will do the 15sec thing again) and the car will be OK for the drive home from work or to work (20-30min drive, with traffic and lights - so start and stop conditions).

    Does anyone have an idea where i should look???

    Matt E
    O2 sensor - the connector for the heater element may have corroded away, or the sensor itself.

    '92 205 Mi16
    '90 Mi16x4

  3. #3
    Tadpole
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    where is the 02 sensor???

    isnt it some where near the exhaust?

    how can i tell what series my engine is??? the car is a late 88 model.

    is the it the sensor with the 2 wires (green and yellow - but could probably be any colour on any other car) coming out of it very close to the front of the car???

    is it attached to the throttle body near the idle adjustment screw.

    Thanks for your help Peter.


    So now why would the car only go for a bit then stop - is this how the ECU works - it listens to the O2 sensor, and if the signal is no good then shut off engine?


    Matt E

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts Dave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by matte
    where is the 02 sensor???

    isnt it some where near the exhaust?

    how can i tell what series my engine is??? the car is a late 88 model.

    is the it the sensor with the 2 wires (green and yellow - but could probably be any colour on any other car) coming out of it very close to the front of the car???

    is it attached to the throttle body near the idle adjustment screw.

    Thanks for your help Peter.


    So now why would the car only go for a bit then stop - is this how the ECU works - it listens to the O2 sensor, and if the signal is no good then shut off engine?


    Matt E
    02 sensor is welded into the exhaust downpipe not far from the manifold.

    Dave


  5. #5
    Tadpole
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    OK cant find the 02 sensor...

    but i dont know if that matters anymore...

    the car will not start at all now. I can hear the alternator kicking over but the engine doesnt want to kick over.

    Matt E

  6. #6
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by matte
    OK cant find the 02 sensor...

    but i dont know if that matters anymore...

    the car will not start at all now. I can hear the alternator kicking over but the engine doesnt want to kick over.

    Matt E
    Do you mean you can hear the starter solenoid clicking but the actual starter motor isn't spinning or can you hear the actual starter motor spinning but it's not engaging?
    The 02 sensor is attached to the downpipe and is situated just before the pipe goes into the catalytic converter which is about under the drivers feet.

    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  7. #7
    Member ooh-heh's Avatar
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    Default Engine cut out.

    Hi matte,
    I had a similar problem with my 205 gti. I found that the wiring loom for the injection timing was too worn. It is a small linkning wire wich comes out of the throttle housing, attached to the inlet maniflod. It is attached to the rear of this housing. It then travels to a male or female end which then goes off - but that is not important. Check the connector at the throttle housing - may be worn, then follow the wire to the connector. This connector should be white in colour. Sometimes the plastice degrades over time as it is in a high temp. area. If you are following the right wire you head towards the upper right of the engine bay, towards the radiator resovior. Just check this wire and if really worn then replace.
    The loom only cost me $22.00 about, but i had to wait a while as it had to come from France.

  8. #8
    Tadpole
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    the starter motor is turning over - but not engaging the engine to start.

    i recently had a fuel pump relay replaced because it somehow got to hot (to much current probably) and it died.

    I have been playing with my car today have found the same relay and it has blown again - i tried resoldering it - but to no avail, car will still not start. So the problem must be elsewhere...

    I will have a look at the wiring loom you talk about though.

    Matt E

  9. #9
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    Matt,

    Sounds as though you're the victim of dodgy French wiring; too light to handle the load, long term.
    On the BX they have a multi plug under the battery which has a wire running to the starter solenoid; yellow I think it is, and on my car, that was only carrying 9 volts due to degradation to the actual copper wire. As a result, it wasn't always pulling the solenoid in strongly enough and gave symptoms similar to a half flat battery. As many of these solenoids have a mechanically operated arm attached to them to engage the cog to the flywheel, it may be worth also investigating that wire. All cars have to have one, the one I describe is Citroen BX (same motor as yours) and on the BX it is located under the battery carrier so it can absorb any run off from the battery and be kept nice & hot to cause the wire to degenerate.
    If you find the plug, firstly separate it, clean it & wipe a bit of vaseline or preferrably some silicone grease on the plastic part of the plug before reassembly.


    Alan S

    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  10. #10
    1000+ Posts dino's Avatar
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    hhhmmmm...faulty stoich. relay (fuel pump) will normally FIRE UP the motor as long as its cranking.....but like others have said...check the wiring (and I mean ALL connections and cables)....ie.... + - at coil, check coil lead....check dist. cap (make sure that central carbon rod is in fact still there...cars have been known to run on the spring alone)....Check the ignition module connector (is the module getting hot-next to coil-)...check idle position sensor connector on throtle...check AFM connector....check all earth and fuses...check the viring to fuel pump in hatch (has been known to get squashed by the crap we sometimes carry....)....
    I suspect its electrical.....u could always try undoing the fuel hose on filter....does she deliver while cranking?



    Just give it a GOOD once over....and hopefully u ll be able to isolate...what could be a very basic problem.....


    cheers


    and good luck


    dino

  11. #11
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
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    The tricks these bloody things can pull are countless. This arvo I disconnect the battery from an electric fence on a BX 16 Trs and use jumpers to start it. Take up to garage and fill with stuff to shift across to the house and try to restart. No way would it start, in fact I was almost positive it had blown a head gasket and I could hear gases escaping from the back of the engine. No time to stuff around so I did other things and give Hon #1 son a call who was enroute from a job 100 klms away; he was not a happy chappy...
    He arrives home, does as I had and does a spin on the jumpers; checks spark & fuel all is well, reconnects everything and it futters and sparts and jumps to life... due to a lack of use for a few days coupled to a half flat battery, it didn't have enough kick to spin it fast enough to seat the EGR valve with vacuum and so it stayed open and the bloody EGR acted like a decompression valve and hence wouldn't start.
    By leaving for a while until the kick came back to the slave battery and the ball reseated, it all began operating again............$#!+ of a thing!!!


    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  12. #12
    Tadpole
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    Well thankyou all for your suggestions... I eventually took the car to my PUG mechanic - and he replaced the BOSCH ignition module. And that has done the trick.

    Matt E

  13. #13
    Member Lightning's Avatar
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    Which mechanic did you take it o Matte?
    Toast, the best thing since sliced bread!

  14. #14
    1000+ Posts dino's Avatar
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    ...two screws and a connector...I had a spare.....Did they put a new one on...they r not cheap.....The guy in Keilor GAVE me the ignition module when I bought the coil for $20.....I remeber...it was about two years ago....Bosch module was about $200 mark and the Bosch coil was in same ballpark....Its nice
    when you get support like this.....He ended up letting me try a stoich rely...It was the culprit...again $20....easy....


    cheers


    dino

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