peugeot 306 doesn't start !
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  1. #1
    peo
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    Default peugeot 306 doesn't start !

    I have a problem. I have a peugeot 306 1.6, 66 kw, year 1999 with 50.000 km and i have a problem. Sometimes it simply doesn't want to start, but simetimes it starts just normaly. It doesn't matter if it is cold or hot. I have laready replaced sparks with the original ones, and nothing is better. When it doesn't want to start, i have to keep trying starting over 10 secs. and then it finally starts with a lot of fume out of exhausting system. I can hear the gas pump and i think the problem is with electrics...otherwise when the car is turned on, it works noramly and doesn't give any signs og malfunctioning. Could anyone help with advice?

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  2. #2
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    Does it try to start - can you hear clicking or is it just dead silent?

    It sounds electrical - starter soliniod, battery terminals dirty, bad connection between.

    Clean up the battery terminals and make sure the +ve feed to the start is
    clean and solid - use a multimeter and measure the the voltage from solinoid to the earth (with the car off) and hopefully you will have around 13V or so. If it is lower than that you could have a problem with that cable

    Let us know how you go

    Tom

  3. #3
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    Try not touching the accelerator pedal at all (if you are, that is). Injected cars are meant to be started like this, and if they are at all touchy at starting especially when warm this can make a difference.

    Stu

  4. #4
    peo
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    hello again. sorry, but within these days i haven't had time to reply your messages.
    tcns: Yes, the car is clicking noramly, it just doesn't want to "run" sometimes. Sometimes it is clicking over 10 secs before it runs. So i don't think there is a problem with the connection between terminals and starter or with cable...because the car is never dead silent when i turn the key.
    Stuey: i never touch the accelerator pedal when starting or before that.
    Last week i drove my car to the mechanic, who attached my car to the computer, and it found nothing. I really don't understand what is the problem.
    hope for the solution, bye

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger!
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    When the non starting happens, Is the imobiliser / engine ecu light flashing?

    There is a known problem in the trade with 1998 / 1999 Citroens & Peugeots with the imobilisers transponder aerial.

  6. #6
    peo
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    no, the light is not flashing. That was also the question at the mechanic...but that's not it.

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger! Decca's Avatar
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    Clarification please.
    Does the car crank over at a good even speed all the time??

    ECU's need nearly full battery voltage to run. Have you tried it with another battery or with jumper leads ( take care in jumpering)
    Batteries can appear ok but under load, as in starting, they can be different.

    Decca
    Present --2016 2008 Outdoor / 2014 RAV4 Diesel (My utilitarian beast)

    Past -- 19?? 403 / 1974 504GL / 1972 R12TL / 1995 405SRi / 1997 406ST / 1998 306XT / 2004 406HD1 / 2008 308XSE HDi / 2008 307XSE

  8. #8
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    Further to the above post, put a multimeter across the battery terminals
    and then get someone to crank the car to see what voltage the battery
    drops to - if it is below 10V then I reckon your battery is on the way out.

    For an excellent replacement look for a delcor (spelling ?) I have used them in
    my range rovers and pugs for ages and they are highly efficient. They are a calcium battery and go like a champion.

    As my engineer/mechanic mate says "you put them in cars that are hard to start and all of a sudden they are not hard to start anymore !"

    Tom

  9. #9
    peo
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    Decca:
    the car is ALWAYS clicking - starting (don't know how to say to the sound which is coming out of starter normally when i want to start the engine, but sometimes (2-4 times a week) it just doesn't want to "run". I repeat, the starting of the car sounds exactly the same nevertheless it "runs" or not. The car is never dead silent when i turn the key. The sound of the starter is always OK. The only problem is, that sometimes (2-4 times a week) i have to leave the machine starting for about 10 secs before it "runs".
    TCNS: after clarification above, is it necessary to use the multimeter. Because i think there is no problem with the battery...what do you think?
    thanx for advice

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger! Decca's Avatar
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    Peo you dont have to use a multimeter. a real rough way is to check carefully with your finger if the battery terminals are warm after cranking the engine. A bad joint is in effect a resistance and the high currant flow that ocurrs when the engine is cranked will mean that there is a voltage drop over the resistance and heat will be generated.

    Methinks your battery is sus. If the car is a 1999 model then I take it is the original battery???? 5 years is a fair run.
    I second TCNS's comments about the calcium batteries. I put one in my wifes 306 and even though the battery wasnt fully charged the engine spun into life effortlessly. I think it has 530CCA whereas the original had only 360.

    Decca
    Present --2016 2008 Outdoor / 2014 RAV4 Diesel (My utilitarian beast)

    Past -- 19?? 403 / 1974 504GL / 1972 R12TL / 1995 405SRi / 1997 406ST / 1998 306XT / 2004 406HD1 / 2008 308XSE HDi / 2008 307XSE

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