404 1800 motor
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Thread: 404 1800 motor

  1. #1
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    Icon4 404 1800 motor

    Does the south african 404 1800 petrol motor still have the six bolt crank/clutch system or is it the same as the 504 1800/2000 seven bolt system?
    Can the C3 gearbox and clutch be fitted to this motor?
    Requirement is for more torque and low rev lugging power for a 67 404.

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    Quote Originally Posted by paul404
    Does the south african 404 1800 petrol motor still have the six bolt crank/clutch system or is it the same as the 504 1800/2000 seven bolt system?
    Can the C3 gearbox and clutch be fitted to this motor?
    Requirement is for more torque and low rev lugging power for a 67 404.
    The South African 1600 with later block (2 litre style liner seals) has the 6 bolt flywheel but don't know about the 1800. I would say it has the 7 bolt flywheel, it is unlikely that they would have made a special run for such a low number of cars. Why would they bother? the late 404 clutch is the same so no mods required to fit the 404.
    I have a 1967 404 which is fitted with a C3 and a 1800. I had the flywheel filled and redrilled. I can organise another one for you if you wish.

    Graham Wallis

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    I did some further checking. The south african 1800 motor is definitely a 404 block. Apparently open top. It does not have the ribs on the exhaust side like the 504 block and has the three depressions along the top just like the 1600 motor.
    the one I know is SA motor has engine number starting with 110. The other one has number 1127857X. does anyone know the significance of these engine numbers?
    Checking a 504 that was originally equipped with an 1800 motor the engine number started with 14---
    Last edited by paul404; 21st July 2004 at 10:17 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by paul404
    I did some further checking. The south african 1800 motor is definitely a 404 block. Apparently open top. It does not have the ribs on the exhaust side like the 504 block and has the three depressions along the top just like the 1600 motor.
    the one I know is SA motor has engine number starting with 110. The other one has number 1127857X. does anyone know the significance of these engine numbers?
    Checking a 504 that was originally equipped with an 1800 motor the engine number started with 14---
    There is an auto 1800 404 in Melbourne. I will be talking to its previous owner this afternoon. I'll see if he remembers how many bolts it had.

    Graham

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    Default Engine Numbers

    My 1971 African 404 ute has the 1796 cc "Export" motor with the engine number EG108072D stamped on the block. This is also the Chassis number.


    Chris Andrews

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    Quote Originally Posted by friday403
    My 1971 African 404 ute has the 1796 cc "Export" motor with the engine number EG108072D stamped on the block. This is also the Chassis number.


    Chris Andrews

    I asked the owner of the SA 1800 404, he said that it had the 7 bolt crankshaft.

    Graham wallis

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    Graham, you said you could have a c3 flywheel redrilled for a seven bolt crank. What would be the approximate cost?
    Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by paul404
    Graham, you said you could have a c3 flywheel redrilled for a seven bolt crank. What would be the approximate cost?
    Thanks
    I just checked with my workshop owning mate - $50.
    Do you need a flywheel as well?
    Graham

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    Sounds like a good price. We would need the flywheel as we intend to keep the original motor for the car. Besides there is no sense in freighting both ways to Queensland. Please give a price for supply and freight and an address to send payment.
    Also we need a carby for the 1800. It is a 504 1800 We have been told that webbers are better would you know which model to get?
    The 1800 has an exhaust manifold. Would this fit the 404 pipe or would the 404 manifold fit the 1800 motor?

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    Quote Originally Posted by paul404
    Sounds like a good price. We would need the flywheel as we intend to keep the original motor for the car. Besides there is no sense in freighting both ways to Queensland. Please give a price for supply and freight and an address to send payment.
    Also we need a carby for the 1800. It is a 504 1800 We have been told that webbers are better would you know which model to get?
    The 1800 has an exhaust manifold. Would this fit the 404 pipe or would the 404 manifold fit the 1800 motor?
    Ok, add $20 for a flywheel plus postage which should be less than $20.
    Single choke Webers are very rare and you would need to tune it to the engine, not easy. The Standard Solex, in 1800 form this has a 27mm venturi and 145 main jet, in my opinion is unbeatable on these engines as long as it is good condition. I may be talked in to selling my spare if you can't find one.
    The late 404 and 1800 manifolds are the same.
    I'll get the flywheel done, then send you the all up price.

    Graham.

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    We will pick up the motor on saturday. Hold till then while we have a good look at it.
    Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by paul404
    We will pick up the motor on saturday. Hold till then while we have a good look at it.
    Thanks

    OK
    Graham

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    Got the motor , will pull it down on the weekend. Is there anything I should watch out for?

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    Quote Originally Posted by paul404
    Got the motor , will pull it down on the weekend. Is there anything I should watch out for?
    Are you going to dismantle it, if so why?
    If so do you have parts?
    Give it a try first, it will cost between $500 and $2500 to rebuild depending on condition and whether you want hardened seats in the head.

    Graham

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    Unknown history but from a very ratty 504 (not the motor we were looking at before, this is a 504 motor) Was considering at least a valve grind but may do a compression check if I can spin it with the starter motor on before removing the gearbox. Prepared to spend some money if needed. Are seats a necessity for unleaded in these motors? I want the car for the long haul. Car needs a repaint but is rust free. We will paint the engine bay before putting the new engine in. Have paint for the full car.

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    Paul, is this the blue 404 you bought a few years back from me? Hows it going? What a top car that was, always regret selling that one.

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    I see what you mean at $950 for sleeves+Pistons. but can get hone+machine pistons+rings for half that if it measures up with not too much wear.

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    Yes same car, Just replaced front crossmember with new, fitted new buttresses, going to bring it up to scratch. Engine out because clutch pivot broke, have another bellhousing, painting engine bay whilst everything is out. When mobile the rest of the car gets the treatment.

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    Quote Originally Posted by paul404
    Yes same car, Just replaced front crossmember with new, fitted new buttresses, going to bring it up to scratch. Engine out because clutch pivot broke, have another bellhousing, painting engine bay whilst everything is out. When mobile the rest of the car gets the treatment.

    You will need hardened seats unless you use Valvemaster. If you valve grind you will be much worse off as you then remove the work hardening and traces of lead from when it last ran on leaded fuel. If it hasn't been run on unleaded yet you are supposed to get 8000km before recession kicks in, due to this residual lead. Just give it a go, nothing to lose and easy to pull the motor out for a rebuild if it proves neccessary.

    It may be hard to get main bearings and rings, I can help here.

    Graham

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    Did a compression test = Dry 120,150,150,150 Wet 150,160,160,160.
    Rings are probably a go, can get them here
    Pushrods are very ratly. Timing chain had a regular clunk until the oil got up.
    I found the probable reason it was taken off the road.
    Clutch was just down to the rivets but the plate had been installed A-about!! Shock spring cover had just started contacting the heads of the crank bolts - bet that was noisy

    The flywheel is 7 bolt please start on that. Will get it on the stand and clean it before any further pulldown

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    Quote Originally Posted by paul404
    Did a compression test = Dry 120,150,150,150 Wet 150,160,160,160.
    Rings are probably a go, can get them here
    Pushrods are very ratly. Timing chain had a regular clunk until the oil got up.
    I found the probable reason it was taken off the road.
    Clutch was just down to the rivets but the plate had been installed A-about!! Shock spring cover had just started contacting the heads of the crank bolts - bet that was noisy

    The flywheel is 7 bolt please start on that. Will get it on the stand and clean it before any further pulldown

    Pity about the one low cylinder!
    I'll get the flywheel started.
    Graham

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    Unpacked the new engine stand. No bolts in pack- Beep!!
    Removed head Head looks good
    Pushrods vary from great to OH S**t. so we will need these could you check prices?
    Bores look good lip is not big enough to hold a fingernail so hone and Re-ring will do

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    Quote Originally Posted by paul404
    Unpacked the new engine stand. No bolts in pack- Beep!!
    Removed head Head looks good
    Pushrods vary from great to OH S**t. so we will need these could you check prices?
    Bores look good lip is not big enough to hold a fingernail so hone and Re-ring will do
    I can supply pushrods, free of charge. Check everything out and let me know what you need.
    Graham

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    Default ueensland

    I assume the followers are needed as well?
    When we get the parts for the engine stand will mount it, drain the sump, turn it upside down and degrease the block before I remove the sump and timing chain cover. I expect to need a chain and tensioner but must examine the cogs, check bearing sizes and wear. Is there anything we can do to the motor to improve power and tractability? Good torque and low to mid speed performance is the criteria.
    what would be the chances of fitting airconditioning for when sitting in brisbane traffic jams?

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    Quote Originally Posted by paul404
    I assume the followers are needed as well?
    When we get the parts for the engine stand will mount it, drain the sump, turn it upside down and degrease the block before I remove the sump and timing chain cover. I expect to need a chain and tensioner but must examine the cogs, check bearing sizes and wear. Is there anything we can do to the motor to improve power and tractability? Good torque and low to mid speed performance is the criteria.
    what would be the chances of fitting airconditioning for when sitting in brisbane traffic jams?

    If you want more power then use a 2 litre.
    Seriously the 1800 is a great motor as it has heaps of mid range torque, just make sure that the carby and distributor are working properly. Nw distributors are still available at a goodprice at EAI in Melbourne.
    The 1800 motors had very strong valve springs which tended to wear out the valve gear. If the push rods are worn I'd garantee that you will also have issues with worn cam lobes and followers.
    If you fit a sump from a 505 GR/SR you will be able to mount the compressor to that. OOPS, forget that idea,you will need to use the original sump as the oil return is different in the later motors.

    Graham

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