Mi16 - Alternator
  • Register
  • Help
Page 1 of 2 12 Last
Results 1 to 25 of 40
  1. #1
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    ACT
    Posts
    24

    Default Mi16 - Alternator

    Mine gave up last night. I've run a couple places, and they're wanting a small fortune. But they are also asking what type of Alternator is fitted. I'm fairly certain it is not the original that is in there currently. What is a typical replacement on the '89 Mi16 - Or is that too broad a question?

    What options do I have?

    Cheers,
    -dave.

    Advertisement

  2. #2
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    8,923

    Default

    Go to SuperCheap and take a look at one off a Mitsubishi Magna.
    I think you'll find it's the same but possibly a different pulley. Should cost about $145 with a 12 month warranty.

    We usually do our own, they aren't hard to rework after all they rarely cook the windings. As has been said usually only brushes or regulator.
    You're being a victim of the "Aww geez mayte; one uh them foreign carzmate; they costcha a forchun ta fix" syndrome.


    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  3. #3
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    ACT
    Posts
    24

    Default

    Took the time to dart home and look at the Alternator and paperwork in an attempt to find out what brand it is. Nothing visible on the Alternator and paper work shows a bill for $215 - Sublet. Real hand info there.

    I read a similar post referring to the magna alternators, will chase up. Which magna engine/model are you referring too?

  4. #4
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    ACT
    Posts
    24

    Default

    Is there much hassle involved in swapping the pulleys over?

    -dave.

  5. #5
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    ACT
    Posts
    24

    Default

    I'm pretty much commited to having to try get my current alternator overhauled. I can't seem to get a price on exchange under $300 from where i've rung.

    Whats involved in getting the thing out. I did a search and saw mention of doing it through the tyre well, from what I can see its not really a possibilty on the 405. However I did see mention of moving the ABS and bringing it out the top? Any hints for this at all?

    -dave.

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! OddFireV6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    154

    Default

    Just wanted to correct the bit about not being able to rebuild starters for 89 MI16s, this is not quite right. These are no less difficult to rebuild than any Peugeot starter, I replaced the brushes and machined the commutator on mine.
    OddfireV6
    504 V6 24V, 203

  7. #7
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    58

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tomic
    Is there much hassle involved in swapping the pulleys over?

    -dave.
    You ususally need a rattle gun to get the end nut of the pulley
    apart from that they should be able to swap over easy

    Tom

  8. #8
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    8,923

    Default

    First trick is to get it out.

    On the BX16V the easiest way there is by taking the drivers side road wheel off, remove the inner guard and it's looking straight at you.
    Once off you should be able to get some numbers off it or if the worse comes to the worst, take it in & ask someone for "an alternator just like this" if they want to know what it's off tell 'em you're getting for a friend.
    Pulley usually is held on with a nut on the end of the shaft and a woodruff or square key. Any 12 volt sparky or half decent grease monkey should have a puller or press to get it off in a few seconds.

    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  9. #9
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    ACT
    Posts
    24

    Default

    About to head home and see if i can get the bugger out.

    For amusements sake, I called the local Peugeot parts/sales rep in the area (melrose motors) and the price he game me was some what astounding for a new alternator. $1800. Well I certainly got my amusement.

    Thanks for the suggestions guys.

    -dave.

  10. #10
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    Parkes - N.S.W - Australia - Earth
    Posts
    12,269

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tomic
    About to head home and see if i can get the bugger out.

    For amusements sake, I called the local Peugeot parts/sales rep in the area (melrose motors) and the price he game me was some what astounding for a new alternator. $1800. Well I certainly got my amusement.

    Thanks for the suggestions guys.

    -dave.

    you learn over time that you never if you can get away with it say what a part is out of regarding froggy cars

    i even had a motorola alternator from a 604 rebuilt for under $100 once as i didn't say what it was out of but when i picked it up he said to me "geez ya lucky mate it wasn't one from one of those euro jobbies as they can be bloody expensive"

    i laughed all the way home
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x 2018 3008

    1 x 2000 Citroen XM,

    1 x '98 306 GTi6 sadly sold

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0

  11. #11
    1000+ Posts Shobbz's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    1,284

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pugrambo
    you learn over time that you never if you can get away with it say what a part is out of regarding froggy cars

    i even had a motorola alternator from a 604 rebuilt for under $100 once as i didn't say what it was out of but when i picked it up he said to me "geez ya lucky mate it wasn't one from one of those euro jobbies as they can be bloody expensive"

    i laughed all the way home

    I agree.

    Ask how much to repair the item. Start mentioning anything froggy and the $$$ start rolling.

    shobbz
    Previous
    2005 407 ST Exec
    1975 504 GL

  12. #12
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    ACT
    Posts
    24

    Default

    Came home and had a bash. Got no where before sun light ran out.

    I can access a large 21mm bolt on the top side, relatively easily. There appears to be another bolt (13mm) on the under side (between the belts) which I just cant get access too. Failed from under the wheel arch aswell. There was what 'appeared' to be a tensioner coming from the side of the aforementioned 13mm bolt pointing up with reasonable access, yet this produced a bolt, and that was about it. What was also dissapoitning was even failing to get the belt off..

    My manual is about as useless as tits on a bull, showing pictures only of im guessing a 8v engine or mitsu design (looked very similar to my mitsu alternator).

    So what suggestions next? I'm loathed to take it anywhere and have my limbs and first born removed for the privelege.

    -dave.

  13. #13
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    Parkes - N.S.W - Australia - Earth
    Posts
    12,269

    Default

    when you do get it off you may have to replace the belt

    how old is the belt do you know ?

    you may be lucky but they do and can fail within weeks if they are old and you have taken the tension off them and then tensioned them up again

    they are around the $60-70 mark
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x 2018 3008

    1 x 2000 Citroen XM,

    1 x '98 306 GTi6 sadly sold

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0

  14. #14
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    8,923

    Default

    I think Nathan "madbiker" may have done one of these not long ago. I can only speak from a Citroen perspective which I thought was same or similar which is why I suggested the inner guard route. I had mine off a couple of weeks back & it was 'i$$ easy doing it that way.
    There's a bolt that is accessed from the top; that's for adjustment & screws completely out if necessary. You need a bit of muscle on the big bugger and I think there's another at the back of the alternator about 12mm I think.
    The belt & adjuster is on the serpentine belt (I think pugrambo may be thinking it's the cambelt you're talking about as a new serpentine cost me about $27) so you slacken the adjustment bolt at the top (be sure that you're turning it to slacken not tighten also) then loosen the adjustment on the jockey wheel which is on an eccentric, then go for the bolt at the rear of the alternator.
    Make sure you disconnect the battery also before you go much further.
    If it looks unlike what I'm describing, give Nathan a call & if necessary try Peter T who also used to own one of these & had a 205 with an Mi16 conversion. Both can be contacted by a Private message function off this board.

    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  15. #15
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    Parkes - N.S.W - Australia - Earth
    Posts
    12,269

    Default

    the last serpentine i bought was $62

    i admit it was from a dealer so that may explain the price difference
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x 2018 3008

    1 x 2000 Citroen XM,

    1 x '98 306 GTi6 sadly sold

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0

  16. #16
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    8,923

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pugrambo
    the last serpentine i bought was $62

    i admit it was from a dealer so that may explain the price difference
    In the immortal words of Bob Thorne from SuperCheap "You've been paying too much for your parts for too long; time you came to see us at our new store near to you!!"

    It should be a 5v belt about 1170mm circumference.


    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  17. #17
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    Parkes - N.S.W - Australia - Earth
    Posts
    12,269

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Alan S
    In the immortal words of Bob Thorne from SuperCheap "You've been paying too much for your parts for too long; time you came to see us at our new store near to you!!"

    It should be a 5v belt about 1170mm circumference.


    Alan S

    true

    i only change it if needed when the timing belt is done which will be in another 3 years time as it probably won't be a mileage change

    the last one i did was when i had the power steering pump replaced on the car under warranty but i had to pay for a new serpentine then and that one is still on the car so it's getting a few years on it now even though the timing belt has been done in the meantime

    i should next time i am out and about get a spare and keep it in the boot but even then i'd hate to change one on the side of the road
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x 2018 3008

    1 x 2000 Citroen XM,

    1 x '98 306 GTi6 sadly sold

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0

  18. #18
    1000+ Posts cruiserman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    1,290

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tomic
    Came home and had a bash. Got no where before sun light ran out.

    I can access a large 21mm bolt on the top side, relatively easily. There appears to be another bolt (13mm) on the under side (between the belts) which I just cant get access too. Failed from under the wheel arch aswell. There was what 'appeared' to be a tensioner coming from the side of the aforementioned 13mm bolt pointing up with reasonable access, yet this produced a bolt, and that was about it. What was also dissapoitning was even failing to get the belt off..

    My manual is about as useless as tits on a bull, showing pictures only of im guessing a 8v engine or mitsu design (looked very similar to my mitsu alternator).

    So what suggestions next? I'm loathed to take it anywhere and have my limbs and first born removed for the privelege.

    -dave.
    Where abouts in CBR are you I can have a look and give you a hand on the W/end or Fri arvo if you like. Got a spare one off a SRDT here you can borrow till yours if fixed too.
    Neil
    '94 405 SRBT

    '82 CX 2400 Pallas 5spd

    '77 CX 2400 Pallas 4spd manual Import

    '76 CX Super

    '05 WL Statesman

    '92 HZJ80 Landcruiser

  19. #19
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    ACT
    Posts
    24

    Default

    Mate you'd be an absolute legend to help me out. I'm over west side in Fisher. Just ideally want to get the damn thing out. Of course I'd like to get her running asap, but some help would be greatly appreciated. Late friday arvo or saturday would be the best..

  20. #20
    1000+ Posts cruiserman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    1,290

    Default

    No worries, trundle over Fri arvo if you like then you can get something done on Saturday with it. Ill PM you with details
    Neil
    '94 405 SRBT

    '82 CX 2400 Pallas 5spd

    '77 CX 2400 Pallas 4spd manual Import

    '76 CX Super

    '05 WL Statesman

    '92 HZJ80 Landcruiser

  21. #21
    Fellow Frogger! MadBiker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Griffith
    Posts
    194

    Icon6

    Yes i recently did my belts - i got a genuine peugeot one for about 40 bucks..
    only to find i had one that came with teh car in the boot.


    they listed 2 belts one short and one long ( by about 2cm) i currently have teh short belt on mine, although im sure you can get a simpel boshe replacement one i have a spare one if you want me to measure it up for you i can?


    as for the alternator im pretty sure the pug one is made by mitsu...

    easiest way i found to get it off is to have the peugeot dealer to tighten your belts when you use a coupon for servicing - the alternator falls off in days but its abugger to fix the bracket..

    to get to all teh belts you take the left hand wheel off and remove the innder guard...

    Cheers
    Nathan
    who cant stop his belts from squeeling now :-(
    ===============
    1991 Peugeot 405 Mi16
    1994 Toyota Camry CSI
    2002 Honda CBR600F4i
    1989 Honda CD250U
    www.mad-biker.com
    ===============

  22. #22
    Moderator Alan S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    8,923

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MadBiker
    they listed 2 belts one short and one long ( by about 2cm) i currently have teh short belt on mine, although im sure you can get a simpel boshe replacement one i have a spare one if you want me to measure it up for you i can?


    as for the alternator im pretty sure the pug one is made by mitsu...


    to get to all teh belts you take the left hand wheel off and remove the innder guard...

    Cheers
    Nathan
    who cant stop his belts from squeeling now :-(
    Nathan,

    Couple of interesting points mate.

    Yes Bosch do make a series of belts that suit these engines and yes there are differing sizes in them. With the way they are fitted, size seems almost immaterial; quite weird really. The other point worthy of note regarding belts is that the tensioner (which has an SKF part number so may be available ex-"Bearing Service" possibly on special order is quoted by some parts suppliers as NLA and in those cases, they supply a different belt again that is only about 70% of the size of the original and when fitted around the three pulleys (Alternator, crank and air/con) sits in a distorted triangle shape and brother, kidding that one doesn't arf squeal. the problem being that it only covers a very small proportion of the lower pulleys due to not being pulled upwards by the jockey wheel/tensioner.
    I haven't had a chance to prove or otherwise this theory, but I have suspicions that to get rid of the squealing you need to play around with the adjustments; adjust the alternator off, increase the tension at the jockey wheel. Try and if no good, slacken at the jockey wheel & adjust at the alternator and so on until the optimum is reached. I don't think that these belts are directional as they are normally covered in arrows if they are but having said that, cambelts are directional so it is a possibility.
    Hopefully, I'll get the BX back together this weekend and if it happens, I'll have a play and see if I can work out a way to get rid of the squeal. Failing that, it may just be a case of waiting for the new belt to bed in and then readjusting. I'm a bit sceptical about tightening it too much not only because of the alternator bearings factor but also the harmonic balance is then also placed under some strain.
    Incidentally, thnks for confirming the access points under the guard; I knew that was it on the BX but only 95% sure on the Pug.


    Alan S
    If it ain't broke, use a 12" shifter.....that usually does the trick!!

  23. #23
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    46

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tomic
    Mine gave up last night. I've run a couple places, and they're wanting a small fortune. But they are also asking what type of Alternator is fitted. I'm fairly certain it is not the original that is in there currently. What is a typical replacement on the '89 Mi16 - Or is that too broad a question?

    What options do I have?

    Cheers,
    -dave.
    Can I ask, before it went were you experiencing anything strange with the car - electrics wise?? Or did it just happen suddenly??
    1993 Peugeot 405 Mi 16 S2

  24. #24
    Tadpole
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    ACT
    Posts
    24

    Default

    I was given some warning the prior day by the battery warning light. Removing power draw would get rid of the warning light, so it was pretty clear that it was on the way out. However, I was marginally expecting it last a tad longer. Was only rebuilt apparently in 2001 according to my paper work.

  25. #25
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    58

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tomic
    I was given some warning the prior day by the battery warning light. Removing power draw would get rid of the warning light, so it was pretty clear that it was on the way out. However, I was marginally expecting it last a tad longer. Was only rebuilt apparently in 2001 according to my paper work.
    Engine heat probably cooked the diodes in the back of the casing that us usually what happens to them, I have a heat shield on mine and I have seen factory alternator caps of the back on an alfa romeo that also have a cold air ram that runs air into the back of the casing to help preserve them

    Tom

Page 1 of 2 12 Last

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •