S1 205 GTi upgrades
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Thread: S1 205 GTi upgrades

  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Default S1 205 GTi upgrades

    I have recently purchased a 1987 205 GTi which the previous owner (moeozz) had performed some upgrades on, including a 1.9l mi16 engine conversion.

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    I have been looking at upgrading a little to improve power, handling, braking etc. but not at the expense of reliability. I have in mind a few hill climbs and track days, but also want to cruise about on the weekends.

    I have been looking at ITBs, Cams, ECUs, Exhaust, Quaife Diff. It is all quite prohibitively expensive though. So my question is if anyone has these components they are willing to part with?

    I also have some visual upgrades to perform like upholstery, rust removal and detailing. Any recommendations for in Adelaide would be welcome.

    My current job is sorting out an exhaust. As the original 205 exhaust doesn't quite fit properly with the new engine the exhaust hangs lower than it should and I find myself bottoming out a bit. As a result I really want a full system including exhaust headers. This again is pretty expensive though. From cat back is about $850 in stainless steel for 2.25", but with custom headers that jumps to about $2K! as there is a fair bit of mucking about. I can purchase headers from the UK, but just the headers are close to $700. Does anyone have anything suitable lying about?

    This is my first post! Looking forward to the assistance of the group. Thanks!
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  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger!
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    My 2p worth. I presume it's running the later BE3 gearbox, but even so, I'd seriously consider installing a Quaife ahead of trying to find more BHP as you are already probably at the limits with an open diff.

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    1000+ Posts CEyssens's Avatar
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    It may pay to check the original build threads for this car also as from memory he fitted a quaife when the mi16 conversion went in.
    There is a lot of info on this forum on HP gains from this engine, have a good read before digging into any mods. Maybe even get it onto a dyno get it tuned first.
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    Before the Quaife get a 4.8 to 1 final drive, a little bit more expensive than a Quaife but essential with a 16 valve engine, you are better off with an 8 valve without that. Even my Citroen Xsara VTS with torquier XU10J4RS is lacking in low down punch in competition.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ROK205 View Post
    I have recently purchased a 1987 205 GTi which the previous owner (moeozz) had performed some upgrades on, including a 1.9l mi16 engine conversion.

    I have been looking at upgrading a little to improve power, handling, braking etc. but not at the expense of reliability. I have in mind a few hill climbs and track days, but also want to cruise about on the weekends.

    I have been looking at ITBs, Cams, ECUs, Exhaust, Quaife Diff. It is all quite prohibitively expensive though. So my question is if anyone has these components they are willing to part with?

    I also have some visual upgrades to perform like upholstery, rust removal and detailing. Any recommendations for in Adelaide would be welcome.

    My current job is sorting out an exhaust. As the original 205 exhaust doesn't quite fit properly with the new engine the exhaust hangs lower than it should and I find myself bottoming out a bit. As a result I really want a full system including exhaust headers. This again is pretty expensive though. From cat back is about $850 in stainless steel for 2.25", but with custom headers that jumps to about $2K! as there is a fair bit of mucking about. I can purchase headers from the UK, but just the headers are close to $700. Does anyone have anything suitable lying about?

    This is my first post! Looking forward to the assistance of the group. Thanks!
    Get your engine pipe modified, I needed to do this with my rally car.

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts FIVEDOOR's Avatar
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    This looks like it might be the build thread :- Finally bought a 205...now the problems!!
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ng850 View Post
    My 2p worth. I presume it's running the later BE3 gearbox, but even so, I'd seriously consider installing a Quaife ahead of trying to find more BHP as you are already probably at the limits with an open diff.
    Reading Moes thread he installed a quaife diff but kept the be1 gearbox and put in new gear linkages.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GRAHAM WALLIS View Post
    Get your engine pipe modified, I needed to do this with my rally car.
    I am going to pop into an exhaust expert tomoz so can discuss the best way forward re: exhaust. I thought longer headers would result in a better torque curve but I only know what I've read. See what the gurus say.

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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by CEyssens View Post
    It may pay to check the original build threads for this car also as from memory he fitted a quaife when the mi16 conversion went in.
    There is a lot of info on this forum on HP gains from this engine, have a good read before digging into any mods. Maybe even get it onto a dyno get it tuned first.
    I was waiting to see about cams ecu etc. Before worrying about dyno but maybe I shouls dyno first and then see where w Ed stand. Thanks

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    1000+ Posts CEyssens's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ROK205 View Post
    I was waiting to see about cams ecu etc. Before worrying about dyno but maybe I shouls dyno first and then see where w Ed stand. Thanks

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    It can be a good plan especially if your not experienced with that specific engine, Iíve encountered many engines that could perform better due to small tuning/ setup issues.

    Also re final drive, check whatís in there, Moe may have fitted the Mi16 final drive when doing the quaife

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    Quote Originally Posted by ROK205 View Post
    I am going to pop into an exhaust expert tomoz so can discuss the best way forward re: exhaust. I thought longer headers would result in a better torque curve but I only know what I've read. See what the gurus say.

    Sent from my CPH1701 using aussiefrogs mobile app

    Dont touch the headers. They are awesome as they are. Just get the DP fixed and run a 2.25in pipe with a middle and rear muffler with a 2in tip. These engines are hard to keep quiet. Whatever headers the exhaust shop want to make will cost a lot of money and wont gain you much if anything.
    94 205 Gti Classic #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by ROK205 View Post
    I am going to pop into an exhaust expert tomoz so can discuss the best way forward re: exhaust. I thought longer headers would result in a better torque curve but I only know what I've read. See what the gurus say.

    Sent from my CPH1701 using aussiefrogs mobile app

    Dont touch the headers. They are awesome as they are. Just get the DP fixed and run a 2.25in pipe with a middle and rear muffler with a 2in tip. These engines are hard to keep quiet. Whatever headers the exhaust shop want to make will cost a lot of money and wont gain you much if anything.
    ROK205 and GRAHAM WALLIS like this.
    94 205 Gti Classic #9
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    http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/res...-race-car.html

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by cam85 View Post
    Dont touch the headers. They are awesome as they are. Just get the DP fixed and run a 2.25in pipe with a middle and rear muffler with a 2in tip. These engines are hard to keep quiet. Whatever headers the exhaust shop want to make will cost a lot of money and wont gain you much if anything.
    Couldn't get to the exhaust mob today as the fuel pump failed. My little PUG is laid up at the local auto electrian. Chance to sort out a couple other electrical gremlins anyway. When it is back on the road I'll ger onto exhaust.

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    Have my 205 back from the auto elec. Fuel pump relay needed replacing and some other wiring was causing intermittent faults. One issue is the my fuel sender is cactus. Does anyone know where to get one? Not a big deal but it would be nice to have a working fuel guage.

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    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
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    Try ebay. Theres 2 types I believe so get the right one.
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  16. #16
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    Default Upgrades and Dramas!

    Hi all! I have been chipping away at my 205, installed new coil overs, painted the parcel shelf, added a fabric boot liner, fitted an upper strut brace, fitted U channel rubber around the dash to remove rattling.
    I have shared some images - https://photos.app.goo.gl/qanou6dwtchNXZqV6
    I have run into a problem though and my little car is not running .
    I was having trouble with the bonet latch and was concerned it may have been getting stuck on the custom air flow housing. So I removed the housing, which required removing the mass air flow meter.
    Since putting it all back together the car is struggles to start and coughs and splutters and stalls. My thinking is the MAS is the problem. I pulled it out and cleaned the sensor, checked Ohms (not sure what the normal values are meant to be, but had some resistance 2.4K on 2 pins and 2.7k on another 2). Put it back together, but the same issue persists.
    I also ended up breaking the bonet latch cable! That one I can fix (I have a new cable insert inbound), but the MAS I am clueless about. Any ideas or assistance would be awesome! Such a lovely day here in Adelaide, and I am so bummed not to be able to be out and about in the 205!

  17. #17
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Such is the story with upgrades. You work on something that doesn't have any problems and end up creating one.

    While you had the MAS (I take it that's the AFM?) apart, did you check the plug connection for good contact?
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    Quote Originally Posted by schlitzaugen View Post
    Such is the story with upgrades. You work on something that doesn't have any problems and end up creating one.

    While you had the MAS (I take it that's the AFM?) apart, did you check the plug connection for good contact?
    Yep. Repeatedly. Took the air filter off and checked the vane was working so figure the unit is getting power. Used degreaser to clean. Maybe I should've used specialized MAS cleaner?

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    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Most likely. The degreaser is basically kerosene, not impossible it left a residue on the wires.

    But how did you check good plug contact?
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  20. #20
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    I used a multimeter to check that there was resistance between contacts on the plug, although I am not sure what the resistance should be. Plugged it in and then checked that the vane was working, so assumed it was getting power. What should I be doing? This is all quite foreign to me. I plan on buzzing down to Supercheap and getting some MAF cleaner then having another go at properly cleaning the MAS. I can clean the plug and pins, but do you have any advice as to what else? Thought maybe the ECU is not calibrating properly so would disconnecting the battery help reset the ECU? Thanks for your help

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by ROK205 View Post
    I used a multimeter to check that there was resistance between contacts on the plug, although I am not sure what the resistance should be. Plugged it in and then checked that the vane was working, so assumed it was getting power. What should I be doing? This is all quite foreign to me. I plan on buzzing down to Supercheap and getting some MAF cleaner then having another go at properly cleaning the MAS. I can clean the plug and pins, but do you have any advice as to what else? Thought maybe the ECU is not calibrating properly so would disconnecting the battery help reset the ECU? Thanks for your help
    All good now. Gave the MAS a good clean plugged it all in and the Pug lives again! Just waiting for a new cable insert so I can fix the bonet latch and I'll be back on the road. Next job is exhaust from headers back. This is booked in and I'll share photos once done. Can pick up some 280mm 206gti brakes so might pop them on with some new Brembo pads to improve stopping. Have someone lined up for upholstery so... Getiing somewhere with it all i think.

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    Replaced wishbones, bushes and tie-rod ends today. Also replaced the standard air flow hose with some silicone.
    Looks good. Check out the photos - https://photos.app.goo.gl/qanou6dwtchNXZqV6
    Still waiting on a cable inner to fix the bonnet latch. Maybe tomoz.
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  23. #23
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    Fixed bonet latch and refurbished wheels. I had the tyres taken off, then sanded, primed, painted and clear coated.
    Happy with the result. Next up is the exhaust! - https://photos.app.goo.gl/qanou6dwtchNXZqV6

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    Did you do that, or did you take them to a shop? Looks nice, interesting to see how they hold up. Most alloys are powder coated these days. So are mine, but I couldn't find the correct colour so they are a bit darker than they should be.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by schlitzaugen View Post
    Did you do that, or did you take them to a shop? Looks nice, interesting to see how they hold up. Most alloys are powder coated these days. So are mine, but I couldn't find the correct colour so they are a bit darker than they should be.
    Yeah. Had the tyre shop take off the tyres then sanded, primed, painted and clear coated. Powder coating was going to be something like $500, so I spent about $50 instead. Will see how they hold up!

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