S1 205 GTi upgrades - Page 2
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Thread: S1 205 GTi upgrades

  1. #26
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Powder coating is impervious to aggressive cleaning agents you will need to use later on to get road grime and shit off the wheels, not that I ever wash mine. That was my reason. It's been now seven years and the wheels scrub up like new if you can be bothered.

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  2. #27
    Tadpole
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    Very excited about my new exhaust! Car sounds amazing! Definitely needs some fine tuning and the next job is the dyno, but sounds awesome. Check out the pics - https://photos.app.goo.gl/qanou6dwtchNXZqV6

  3. #28
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    Is that a Magnaflow cat?


    2003 PEUGEOT 206 GTi

  4. #29
    Tadpole
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    I believe so. Certainly a high flow cat, not sure if it is a magnaflow specifically. I'll post a vid. so you can hear the sound in the near future.

  5. #30
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    Not the best recordings but enough do give an idea of the sound - https://photos.app.goo.gl/qanou6dwtchNXZqV6

  6. #31
    Tadpole
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    DynoFlywheel 3-12-19.pdf
    DynoWheels 3-12-19.pdf
    Had the car on the dyno this morning. 145.8HP at the flywheel, 119.3HP at the wheels. Fuel/air mix is a little all over the place so am considering an after market ECU and maybe replace the air flow meter with a MAP sensor. What ECU and MAP sensor should I get? I imagine after that I could look at Cam upgrade, but even just an ECU upgrade should enable some power gains. Any ideas how much? Thanks. Oh here is some vid of the car on the dyno - https://photos.app.goo.gl/qanou6dwtchNXZqV6
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  7. #32
    1000+ Posts cam85's Avatar
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    Your looking at 3-5k to do it properly including a stage 1 cam from Peter T. Maybe less if you can do the work yourself.

    Theres probably Megasquirt etc also at the cheaper end.
    94 205 Gti Classic #9
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  8. #33
    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    119hp @ the wheels is actually very good for a standard DFW Mi16. They normally pull around low 80s kW @ the wheels and the D6C version around 90.
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  9. #34
    Fellow Frogger! Bluey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ROK205 View Post
    Had the car on the dyno this morning. 145.8HP at the flywheel, 119.3HP at the wheels. Fuel/air mix is a little all over the place so am considering an after market ECU and maybe replace the air flow meter with a MAP sensor. What ECU and MAP sensor should I get? I imagine after that I could look at Cam upgrade, but even just an ECU upgrade should enable some power gains. Any ideas how much?
    If you want the engine to run as close to factory or better then you need an ECU that has a high enough spec that it has closed loop idle control. Any ECU that doesn't is more basic than the standard ECU and they don't hold idle when cold nor drive as well in carparks or at intersections.

    Closed loop wideband O2 is highly recommended to target AFRs for fuel economy and safety under wide open throttle.

    I would also recommend changing the TPS from switch type to a potentiometer type so the car can be tuned off TPS with MAP correction. You can leave the factory TPS completely out of the equation and run the MAP as the only load reference but will likely drive similar to the standard airflow meter with possible hesitations.

    Here's a quick list of suitable ECUs and components with prices

    ECU - closed loop idle control & wideband O2 capability
    MoTeC M84 - $1925
    Haltech Elite 750 $1495
    Adaptronic M1200 - $990
    EMS EM70 - $1170

    Wideband O2
    MoTeC & EMS Built in ($0)
    Haltech WB1 - $400
    Adaptronic - $270

    Wiring loom
    Motec - $400
    Haltech - $200 if bought with ECU or $400 separate
    Adaptronic - $100
    EMS - $???

    ICV - You already have a good Bosch idle control valve, which is suitable and any of these ECUs can control it.

    TPS - You should be able to find a suitable potentiometer TPS, probably Bosch, that will bolt on to the Mi16 throttle body - $150 with connector

    MAP Delco 1 bar sensor & connector (external) - $120 (for MoTeC, others have internal MAP but can run external it you choose. No risk of pinching vaccum lines through the engine bay, firewall, under dash, etc).

    Ignition System - You can use the standard distributor, coil & ignition module.

    Relays x3 (ECU, Ign, Inj) - $70 with holders

    Connectors..........all new, fit new pins to current connectors or cut & solder old plugs complete......depends what quality of fit and reliability you want.

    Tune - $800-$1100

    Also, don't get the impression that all these ECUs are equal in quality & functionality with price differences because of the brand name. They are very much "what you get is what you pay for".

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