Finally found my annoying rear suspension rattle on my 504
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Thread: Finally found my annoying rear suspension rattle on my 504

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! Pug72's Avatar
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    Default Finally found my annoying rear suspension rattle on my 504

    Hi all

    As the title suggests, I have had an annoying rattle in the rear suspension for a while now. I first thought it was a dead shock absorber so replaced those. I could not work out where the noise was coming from.

    So I decided to check/replace the bushes that attached the rear beam to the body.

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    I found the source of my noise. On both sides, the same bush was loose (the one on the left in the picture) and flogged out the alloy housing.

    So after undoing bolts that have not been touched for 47 years, replacing the original parts, I now have very smooth rear suspension...which now highlights that I need to do the front suspension.

    Suspension bush new parts.jpgSuspension bush new brackets.jpgSuspension bush.jpgSuspension bush installed.jpg

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pug72 View Post
    Hi all

    As the title suggests, I have had an annoying rattle in the rear suspension for a while now. I first thought it was a dead shock absorber so replaced those. I could not work out where the noise was coming from.

    So I decided to check/replace the bushes that attached the rear beam to the body.

    I found the source of my noise. On both sides, the same bush was loose (the one on the left in the picture) and flogged out the alloy housing.

    So after undoing bolts that have not been touched for 47 years, replacing the original parts, I now have very smooth rear suspension...which now highlights that I need to do the front suspension.

    Suspension bush new parts.jpgSuspension bush new brackets.jpgSuspension bush.jpgSuspension bush installed.jpg
    This is very common issue on 504s.

    You will more than likely find the alloy suspension bracket has an and oval hole because the fixing nut became loose and the stud has "milled" the bracket.

    The easy fix for this is use a front engine mount nut, the type with the tube, and drill/file the alloy bracket to be a tight fit in the tube.

    Loctite the nut to stud and the problem is never likely to occur again.
    bluey504 and Doush_504 like this.

  3. #3
    Member Cruise504's Avatar
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    Thanks for posting this Andrew. I have a similar problem with mine, and recently switched the shocks over thinking that was the problem. It wasn't. I'll look at this area now too.

    Can I ask, where did you source the new parts from?

    cheers,
    Brett


    1976 504 Ti (Avocado green)
    2000 306 XT (soon to be NZ daily driver)
    1972 Datsun 1600 Project

  4. #4
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    Replace one side at a time, if you drop the cross member on both sides you will have hell of a time getting it back in place.
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    Member Cruise504's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice Graham


    1976 504 Ti (Avocado green)
    2000 306 XT (soon to be NZ daily driver)
    1972 Datsun 1600 Project

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    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
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    Hahaha....yes, I remember doing that job. With one side dropped down it was usually OK to get back, though I remember once putting a scissor jack in the wheel arch to gently persuade things to go into place. No real pressure needed...it just helped move things.

    We should start a thread about common problems in older 504s and 505s, which are almost identical mechanically.

    Topics could be very common things like :

    ......The "stuck handbrake" fix

    .......The ignition lock fix

    .......The "welsh plug behind the water pump" fix (which was no longer an issue after 1984 505s)

    ...."replacing your heater tap"

    Then we could ask the mods to make it a "sticky"
    Last edited by Beano; 20th May 2019 at 09:47 PM.
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    Lewin at Peugeotspares had the parts locally here in Brisbane.

    I was surprised to see the ally bracket flogged out from a loose bush. This car has not had a hard life. In fact it has never seen a dirt road - only recently this year.

    I'll need to take this up with the quality control department at Peugeot.

    The process I used was to jack the vehicle up a little - still leaving tyres touching the ground. Place axle stands under subframe. Then remove back seat, lever back metal retainer that holds the 3 x 19mm nuts on each side. Place jack under rear beam on one side. Take weight of beam, then remove 3 x 19mm nuts, metal retainer, then the 3 flat washers, then put the 19mm nuts back on just 2/3 of the thread.

    On the other side, place jack under beam, remove 3 x 19mm nuts, metal retainer, flat washers and slowly and gently lower beam to expose the 2 x 11mm nuts on the side of the steel mount. Undo these two nuts and the 17mm nut on the under side of the steel mount and the steel mount will slide out backwards into the wheel arch.

    Then undo the 17mm bolts that hold the alloy bracket to the beam. Clean everything, replace bushes (using loctite!) , reinstall, but only push the beam back up so there is just enough thread on the 3 large bolts though the body to place the 19mm nuts back on. Repeat for the other side.

    I had no issues reinstalling with the alignment of the large bolts through the body using this method.

    I also replaced the rear sway bar bushes as they were flogged as well.

    Next weekend I'll be rebuilding the brakes - master cylinder is leaking, proportioning valve is leaking, I've had no handbrake for the last 10 or so years (somewhere along the line a mechanic did not rotate the rear piston 45 degrees before pushing it back to replace the pads) so new pistons will go in and new seal kits on all 4 calipers. Will get install brake hoses and brake pads as well.

    Should last another 10 or so years!
    Last edited by Pug72; 20th May 2019 at 09:56 PM.
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    Member Cruise504's Avatar
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    Thanks, I'll give Lewin a call, or may try Rowland Pym. I have exactly the same problems with my handbrake too. What a pain! Welch plug all good though, fortunately this 504 doesn't have a corroded cylinder head like one of my other ones.

    Beano, I'd be keen on "the handbrake fix".


    1976 504 Ti (Avocado green)
    2000 306 XT (soon to be NZ daily driver)
    1972 Datsun 1600 Project

  9. #9
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    I think the handbrake fix involves adding a spring to each caliper to aid the cable to return properly when the handbrake is released.

    My engine suffers from leaky welsh plugs .... a new head is on the cards too, but seeing that the 504 only runs 4pounds cap pressure, it has bought me some time
    Last edited by Pug72; 22nd May 2019 at 10:13 PM.

  10. #10
    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
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    Yes....coil springs, of the correct length and diameter. I Posted about it here twice, but not sure if a search will come up with it.

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    Member Cruise504's Avatar
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    Today I had a second go at rebuilding my right hand rear caliper, sorry to go slightly off topic but the sticky handbrake was mentioned earlier in this thread. I think I've finally got it right. I still don't fully understand how the self adjusting mechanism works, but I've got it back on the road and all seems well. I haven't had to resort to additional springs as yet...just made sure everything was adjusted properly, well lubricated etc.


    1976 504 Ti (Avocado green)
    2000 306 XT (soon to be NZ daily driver)
    1972 Datsun 1600 Project

  12. #12
    1000+ Posts BIGRR's Avatar
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    I think what you will find is that the white plastic "thingo" cracks/breaks and causes the brake to drag. Don't know if you can find new ones. See pic https://www.google.com.au/search?q=p...=1559550526537
    Present fleet:-
    Peugeot 93' 205 Gti 16v
    Peugeot 73' 504 Ti from new
    Peugeot 08' 407 Hdi Coupe from new

    Previous fleet:-
    Peugeot 95' 605 Sv
    Peugeot 92' 205 Gti
    Renault 72' 16TS from new
    Renault 69' 10
    Renault 71' 10s
    Renault 68' 10 from new

    "Be reasonable do it my way!"


  13. #13
    Member Cruise504's Avatar
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    Yes I had a broken "thingo". The only part that was broken was the little stop for the return spring, so I replaced it with a good second hand one. Seems fine now.


    1976 504 Ti (Avocado green)
    2000 306 XT (soon to be NZ daily driver)
    1972 Datsun 1600 Project

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