2007 307 HDi Estate - Whining rear end!
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Thread: 2007 307 HDi Estate - Whining rear end!

  1. #1
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    Default 2007 307 HDi Estate - Whining rear end!

    Progressively getting louder on each trip, I know a rear wheel bearing when I hear one!

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    Over the course of the weekend I have discovered the following fun facts:
    • Bearings are integrated in the rear wheel hub
    • Bearings are non-replaceable on their own
    • Some models have separate disk rotors and wheel hubs, others are a single assembly.
    • Brake disc calliper reset need to be screwed and pushed rather than just pushed in... Can done manually or with a "special" tool. Definitely femme!


    Mine appears to have the integrated hub and rotor assembly (due to ABS perhaps), so i'll be up for a little more to replace them, but I have seen them come in pairs for around $220, or $280 with a set of pads, which I consider reasonable. The issue I have is I don't know which part to order. The site I am looking at is as below.

    Please let me know if they are a suitable supplier, and if so, how I can tell which one to order. I'll call them in the morning, but though i'd ask here too.

    https://www.empoweredautoparts.com.a...ugeot+307+rear

    TIA,
    AB.

  2. #2
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    FYI - Rear callipers are Lucas branded...

  3. #3
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    Contact either EAI or Dapco and ensure you have your car's VIN available. This tells either dealer the exact build of your car and the required parts.

    You will need Torx bits to do this job, not Allen keys.

    A brake piston compressor kit can be purchased via eBay quite cheaply and will come with a variety of fittings or you could buy one from Supercheap etc for more $$.

    However, before you go down the disc replacement path check the wear on all the tyres - rear and front. It could be worn tyres creating a worn bearing sound.
    Craig K
    2009 C5 HDi Exclusive

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    Bearing and ABS ring are integrated, but it's actually quite a simple job. Other PSA cars like the DS3 are similar. LPR are probably the cheapest brand available locally.

    I agree with UFO's suggestions re local supplier and getting the winding tool. Be careful not to damage the ABS sensor.
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  5. #5
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    Thanks gents. Noted. Parts can be a bitch. If they don't ask for the VIN, they're not doing it right!

    Happy to have already purchased the Torx bits (includes the #50 bit I need for this job) for an earlier job. I am blessed to live within walking distance to European Autocare in Penrith. Denton knows my car well, but I want to do this one myself...
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  6. #6
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    Should add too, it's important to "peen over" the retaining ring when you tighten it up. This of course means you need to "un peen" the old ring. You do this with a punch and hammer.

    You will also need a large socket and bar to remove and replace the retaining ring - I think it's 36mm - but it's a while since I did this job on our Cit C4 (same specs as the 307)
    Craig K
    2009 C5 HDi Exclusive

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    That's something I forgot - the hub covers supplied by LPR and some other makes are [email protected]#$. Save the old factory ones.
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    Brake tool needed - tool.jpg

    Disc with caliper off - disc.jpg

  9. #9
    1000+ Posts dmccurtayne's Avatar
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    You can do it with two screwdrivers quite easily


    Garage C5 X7 3008 XTE
    Gone but not forgotten 206 GTI 180 306 XR SED 405 MI16 x2 xzara VTS 406 SV 206 XT Berlingo 2011 (best car ever) 306 HDI 307 XSE HDI touring
    Fix it right the first time

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    I saw someone on here posted a video of it being done with a G-clamp and a Stillson wrench. So long as the boot is protected, it should be ok...

    Question - is it safe to be driving it with the rear end whining away? It's seriously getting louder than the radio now!

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    The G clamp is to push in the front wheel pistons. However the rear pistons wind out as the pad wears to take up slack in the parking brake. They have to be wound back to insert new thick pads. There are two holes in the piston for a grip, and it's a great deal quicker and easier than multiple screwdrivers to use the tool - my experience anyway.

    Sometimes a bit of muscle is needed and the tool provides this. They are available very cheaply on eBay to suit Peugeot - $twentyish. Auto tool shops have them too, but for many more $$.

    Replace discs and pads on both sides, for braking balance.
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    Ok, next dumb question - right or left hand thread?
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Right-Ha...oAAOSwORRbehjs

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by borosa View Post
    Ok, next dumb question - right or left hand thread?
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Right-Ha...oAAOSwORRbehjs

    Buy a kit with all the bits in it - they include left and right threaded bits.
    Craig K
    2009 C5 HDi Exclusive

  14. #14
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    Some of the kits on that page have two screws for the tool - one each way. You need them. Make sure the kit has the tool fitting for Peugeot/Citroen pistons; the rest are of no present value, so you don't need a large workshop kit.

    The caliper itself is not swinging at the rear, and has to come right off to change the disc. You may find that the old disc has worn severely lipped, making removal a small challenge. The handbrake cable simply unclips. Do not disconnect the hydraulics, tie the caliper up to prevent hose damage, and be careful with the ABS sensor hidden in there.

    Winding back will raise the fluid level under the bonnet - watch it!

    Edit: tool in use - tool-in-use.jpg
    Last edited by seasink; 21st May 2019 at 08:34 AM.
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    1000+ Posts luthier's Avatar
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    My 2006 HDI has hub and disc as a unit but the abs ring easily pry's off with tyre levers and the bearings can be driven out and in with a press. I just did the job recently as well as replacing the rear pads. I agree to get the ebay screw in brake caliper tool, should have got one years ago for 505 and 504 brakes.
    I'll be really surprised if the bearings can't be fitted to yours. When in doubt ask Lewin with your vin number. 0424063541 0733534448
    O yeah they scream and I wouldn't drive for long at that point. They are a weird bearing with internal tapered cups and big ball bearings. Looks like a cynical marketing exercise to me.
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  16. #16
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    Isn't it an angular contact bearing? Rather than cynical, it's practical. Holds the hub radially and axially without having to adjust a tapered roller arrangement. I'm not suggesting it's better, but it's for ease of manufacture.
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    2003 PEUGEOT 206 GTi

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    Thanks all. Got the left side done, which was the noisy side. Needed an extra long breaker bar to undo the hub axle nut... Unfortunately, while doing the right side, I have damaged one of the stupid T50 calliper bolts whilst trying to remove it. Top one came off, but bottom one is now damaged and still tight as f***.

    What are my options now? Can these bolts be sourced, and what can I do to extract it?DSC_09283.jpg
    Last edited by borosa; 25th May 2019 at 03:47 PM.

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    I have been here myself ,you can buy those bolts off e bay with a hex head ,its a funny thread from memory ,try soaking the bolt in inox ,and if possible ,tap the bracket it holds , rotating it on the bolt , back and forth ,i then managed to grip it enough with vise grips to get it off ,there isnt much room to swing in there ,you could try one of those sockets the tyre places use to remove lock nuts, a taper with revers spiraling teeth ,i had considered grinding a hex on the torks head and jamming a socket on it ,those bolts are a major pain ,the worse part of the job pugs
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