405 SRDT Advice - Looking to buy
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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! Tom_95's Avatar
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    Default 405 SRDT Advice - Looking to buy

    Hi all,

    In the not-too-distant future I'm looking at purchasing a light project car / come daily driver and I'm seriously considering a 405 Diesel.

    A '95 405 SRDT Wagon has come up for sale locally, and I'm just after a couple of pointers as to what 405-specific things I should be looking out for when I go and inspect this car beyond the normal "make sure everything works, nothing leaks/creaks" type of thing.

    I've had a bit of a search around the forum and there's not really a whole lot I've been able to find on 405 common problems (other than problematic climate control systems).

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    I've also read that if the injection system hasn't been upgraded with 'Vitron' (Bitron?) seals that this can cause issues... Is there any way to visually check this? Apologies if this is a stupid question, but the world of diesel is completely foreign to me .

    Thanks,
    1975 Peugeot 504 GL | 2018 Suzuki Swift GLX Turbo

  2. #2
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    The only thing I can think of is the trailing arm bearings; just make sure there isn't obvious negative camber at either rear wheel (leaning in at the top).

    I think the seal material you're referring to is Viton, but I'm not aware of the related issue with the diesel.


    2003 PEUGEOT 206 GTi

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Re the seals; Viton is actually a Du Pont trade mark name by which other very similar rubber from other manufacturers is also known. It retains very useful sealing and durability properties despite running at high temperatures. So, it is good in many automotive applications. The nightmare with diesel fuel was shortly after the introduction in about 2000 of low sulphur diesel, which brought about the reduction of swelling caused by high sulphur content. With your proposed vehicle being a '95 it is most likely to have either survived the sulphur change issue or has had the seals replaced. Most likely you will have a Bosch injection pump. They are good and can be tickled a bit for more power. I believe that the actual pump part is used on many engines by just fitting to the front a different mounting plate and maybe a different drive to the driven end. I don't know of a way to look at the seals without stripping.

  4. #4
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    Check carefully for evidence of diesel fuel making things wet (oily) around the pump. Unless it is a severe leak, it will most likely have attracted dirt and may be hard to tell from an oil leak. As kelpiebat says, the original seals virtually all gave problems after the introduction of Low Sulphur Diesel fuel - long enough ago that you would expect it to have been fixed, but doesn't hurt to ask!

    Cheers

    Alec

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! Tom_95's Avatar
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    Thanks for the input, everyone. It's good to see that they're aren't that many common issues.

    Quote Originally Posted by kelpiebat View Post
    With your proposed vehicle being a '95 it is most likely to have either survived the sulphur change issue or has had the seals replaced.
    That's a really good point that you raise. Assuming that the vehicle has been driven at least semi-regularly in the last 15 years or so it's likely to have already been attended to. Admittedly, the threads I was referring to were quite a few years old when people were just starting to get caught out by it.
    1975 Peugeot 504 GL | 2018 Suzuki Swift GLX Turbo

  6. #6
    Tadpole
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    I bought a 95 a couple days ago, engine blew in 70 k's, so clearly i am not your man for advice. it was good while it lasted, if you need any spares i'm parting out.

  7. #7
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    Welcome to Aussie Frogs oddit! Did your engine really blow after only owning the car for a couple of days & traverlling 70 km?

    It is really, really important to bleed the cooling system properly if coolant is drained and refilled for any reason. I have a friend whose 405 diesel motor was cooked after a radiator change. The mechanic's insurance eventually paid for supply & install of a 2nd hand motor...

    Unfortunately my friend upgraded to a 307 after that experience, so won't be a customer for parts from your 405!

    Cheers

    Alec

  8. #8
    Tadpole
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    Thanks, yeah first drive after i got it home, on the highway and it blew thick black smoke, as soon as a tried to shift down the engine shut off, ever since there's no compression.

    that cooling system bleeding might have been what got me, previous owner said there was a coolant leak that he patched with radiator repair, and never drove after until i bought it. Guess i was blinded by the straight body, rego and new tyres, but can't win on every one i guess. I'll have to fix the old 505 after all.

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