Peugeot 504 ti wonít start warm
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Thread: Peugeot 504 ti wonít start warm

  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Default Peugeot 504 ti wonít start warm

    Hi All, looking for advice regarding my 72 504 ti. Starts first time when cold but have been stuck recently when Iíve parked and gone to start again and it wont go. Would it be flooded? If I leave for an hour it will start. There is some foam under the injection system that the previous owner looks to have put there ( thought this may have been a short term fix?) Sorry Iím not great mechanically proficient so any advice appreciated. I would then pass onto my mechanic. Have read on this forum not to start playing with the injection system so wary of anyone touching that. Any advice appreciated and thanks in advance.


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  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! Tom_95's Avatar
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    Has it suddenly started doing this, or has it been getting gradually worse?

    The Ti's do flood very easily when warm. It may take a few attempts to start, but be sure not to touch the throttle at all otherwise things get very difficult.
    1975 Peugeot 504 GL | 2018 Suzuki Swift GLX Turbo

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    I have solved this problem on my cab.I fitted a relay sending current direct from the battery +ve to the coil +ve when the ignition is on. I ran a feed wire from the distributor to the relay running in parallel with the original wiring .Perfect starting every time now . In the mean time your car should role start easily when hot
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  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger!
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    It's the electrovalve, which in the Ti system acts as a choke. Yours is acting up and keeps sending when the car is warm, flooding the engine; it's a common problem. Install a switch to cut current to the electrovalve, turn it it on only when the engine is cold. It's an easy, reliable fix.
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  5. #5
    1000+ Posts Mike Tippett's Avatar
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    Thanos is likely right. The coil could also be overheating, depending upon where it is mounted.
    1966 Peugeot 404 Coupť Injection post-restoration reassembly underway!
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  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger!
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    That also fits in with my [distant] memories of my TIs. That is the flat round thing on the firewall. Unplug the wire until it starts. As Thanos says then wire a switch into that circuit. From left field I seem to recall that mine were very sensitive to the heat range of the spark plugs and that made them harder to start when hot. Make sure that it has the right plugs. The numbers 5E and 6E ring a bell but I can't remember which one BUT it is different heat range to the carby car.

  7. #7
    Tadpole
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    Yes it has been gradually getting worse. Thanks for the responses all, very much appreciated.


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    1000+ Posts BIGRR's Avatar
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    How's the fuel economy? If Ti's run rich, starting will always be a problem.
    Present fleet:-
    Peugeot 93' 205 Gti 16v
    Peugeot 73' 504 Ti from new
    Peugeot 08' 407 Hdi Coupe from new

    Previous fleet:-
    Peugeot 95' 605 Sv
    Peugeot 92' 205 Gti
    Renault 72' 16TS from new
    Renault 69' 10
    Renault 71' 10s
    Renault 68' 10 from new

    "Be reasonable do it my way!"


  9. #9
    1000+ Posts Mike Tippett's Avatar
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    https://www.pieces-de-rechange-class...n-soupape.html
    Repair kit for the Electro-valve, if it's just leaking and the valve itself is OK
    1966 Peugeot 404 Coupť Injection post-restoration reassembly underway!
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by neil s View Post
    That also fits in with my [distant] memories of my TIs. That is the flat round thing on the firewall. Unplug the wire until it starts. As Thanos says then wire a switch into that circuit. From left field I seem to recall that mine were very sensitive to the heat range of the spark plugs and that made them harder to start when hot. Make sure that it has the right plugs. The numbers 5E and 6E ring a bell but I can't remember which one BUT it is different heat range to the carby car.
    That is the altitude corrector, the electrovalve is on the back of the manifold. Always comes on and squirts fuel when starting regardless of temperature. Fit a switch to turn it off except when needed, maybe not at all.

  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger!
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    My last TI went about 19 87 ish so the memory is very distant.

  12. #12
    Tadpole
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    Hello Harry,

    Don't know if this will help your situation, but I have a similar situation / path.

    Over 40 family years of 504 Cabriolet (Ti engine) we had exactly the same-sounding issue. Car would start fine from cold, but when warm, turning the key would not start the engine.

    We employed the tactic of opening the bonnet and pulling the electrical cable from the injector that is found at the end of the inlet manifold
    this is nearest the windscreen) and whose job is to inject petrol (for a period of time) directly into the intake manifold, and thereby enrichen the air/fuel mixture.

    This action would let the engine start, and all we had to do was reconnect the cable when we wanted to start the car from cold another time.

    Years have gone by, and the problem got worse and worse.

    Discovery:

    I THINK that the issue was that the injection system was becoming 'rich' and that the additional raw petrol being injected at starter engagement made the mixture too rich.

    In my case,I have discovered a number of problems, that cause the injection system to put too much fuel into the engine.

    The number one issue was a leak in the two (larger) membranes that are in the section of the pump which is manipulated by the flow of air from the Altimeter to the Inlet Manifold (I don't have a picture to hand as I write this, but it the top part of the pump that has a DOME on top of it)

    You can do a non empirical check of the membrane integrity by doing this disgusting thing !!! Disconnect the pipes from the Altimeter and the manifold. suck / blow in them and there should be minimal air travel (if that makes sense) if there is a leak, air will flow through the system , rather than move the components... (phew, this is sounding long winded)

    I found that my membranes were fractured, and a change sorted it ALL out, massive difference.

    I have pictures of all this stuff, LMK if they would help ?

    (In summary, as the membranes in the 'dome ' part of the injection pump got fractured, so too did the richness control of the engine and difficulty hot starting was the the 'creeping' indicator. r's mike
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