Peugeot 306 1998 2l Style Petrol Fuses and startup issues.
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  1. #1
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    Default Peugeot 306 1998 2l Style Petrol Fuses and startup issues.

    Edit: I'm an idiot it's a 1.8l LFY Engine

    Hey guys so I own a petrol 1.8l Peugeot 306 (style) 1998 Auto bought it not long ago and after a bit of TLC got her going and she's been pretty swell.
    Because I raged and hated working on it so much I thought I'd be logical and buy another but this time a petrol 2l manual 1998 (style) so my girlfriend can use the Auto once I get this rage inducer going.
    Now we only picked it up a few days ago, had no battery and our battery we bought was just not seeming to cut it (at first thought) we were able to rollstart the car, she runs and drives fine after the roll start took a little convincing to get going but once going I drove a good 100km+ to get it home no issues whatsoever.
    The issue now is even with a decent battery hooked up the car seems to turn over absolutely fine however just won't fire.. even tried adding my other Peugeot into the mix with jumperleads to try add a bit more juice but nothing.. I've checked and cleaned the plugs taken the air filter out for now and you can hear the fuel priming and certainly gets fuel in the lines.
    I've narrowed it down to literally the plugs not firing as unplugging the coil pack causes the same results. I've got new batteries for the key and central locking etc works, I've replaced and checked fuses inside the car however using the lists I seem to find no one has accurate number representation/placement for the engine compartment fuses so I have no idea whatsoever what goes where So firstly an accurate template (for dumb people) showing me what goes where in there will be awesome (I'll provide photos of my car and engine bay to add to the mix.)
    Also as for the turning over and not firing I am just stumped, car seems to rollstart fine but just refuses to start/fire from turn key but turns over strong until the power source is obviously drained. Could it be the coil pack? although when it was running it wasn't misfiring, stalling (thank god), or running like crap at all something seems to be stopping it from the ignition point?
    I have heard these have an immobiliser which could be it but as the previous owner said he had removed some fuses etc because he didn't have the legit replacements and since he had another car she'd just been parked up for a few months and at this point I have just guessed to no avail. car has new fuel in it etc so that shouldn't be the issue (I mean it was running fine after the roll start a few days ago)

    TLR
    Peugeot 306 2l turns over strong but won't fire, need fuse diagrams for engine bay etc that actually make sense to what I'm looking at (I'm still getting my head around this)

    Any help would be appreciated I'll include photos of the car needing fixed (4 door manual 306 style) and also a pic of my auto just because.

    Auto:



    Manual that needs fixed:





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    Last edited by KiwiStyles; 28th March 2019 at 03:22 PM.

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts dmccurtayne's Avatar
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    Default Peugeot 306 1998 2l Style Petrol Fuses and startup issues.

    So if you pull back a bit the first thing to look at would be the earth and power leads from the battery I would be doing a voltage drop test your starter circuit is probably pulling power or earth from something that needs it to run.

    The fuse diagrams are in the books my son isnít at home atm but happy to send a pic when he is.

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    Which 2L motor is it? Letters 6-7-8 of the VIN. I also have a heap of diagrams somewhere.

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    Quote Originally Posted by seasink View Post
    Which 2L motor is it? Letters 6-7-8 of the VIN. I also have a heap of diagrams somewhere.
    Where's the vin plate located on these I remember seeing it on my 1.8 somewhere but never found it again after having a total mind blank haha Diagrams would be great especially if I can be sure they relate to my model being a 4 door 306 style 1998 (more accurately a 1999 I think) as they seem to fit into some weird slot in production

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    Quote Originally Posted by dmccurtayne View Post
    So if you pull back a bit the first thing to look at would be the earth and power leads from the battery I would be doing a voltage drop test your starter circuit is probably pulling power or earth from something that needs it to run.

    The fuse diagrams are in the books my son isn’t at home atm but happy to send a pic when he is.

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    Would that be relevant if the car is turning over very strong just literally not firing from the coilpack/plugs? As far as I can tell Everything else is working fine. Fuse diagrams would be awesome I'm rather lost with the engine compartment as other tables I have found online have the fuse box under steering wheel labeled fine but the numbers don't match the engine compartment box (Engine compartment starts at 1 then goes 4,5,6 etc rather than F36, 37,38 or whatever it should be to make sense (atleast how I'm looking at it sofar)
    It was used as a daily some 6 months ago no issues, just found out fuse changes were with the owner before him so we're stumped as to what has occurred to stop her starting from key now.

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    Quote Originally Posted by seasink View Post
    Which 2L motor is it? Letters 6-7-8 of the VIN. I also have a heap of diagrams somewhere.
    That help there?

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    Jokes I'm an idiot, it's a 1.8 as well. LFY hah.

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    Well if you canít tell what your not getting while cranking you need to start somewhere if the car runs when clutch started it canít be a fuse can it. The anti theft on these allow cranking so itís possible that voltage getting to the ecu coil or even the immobiliser relay Iíve seen a shed load of cars do this over the years


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    I have the diagrams, but can't get them readable under 106 KB, so cannot attach them. Sorry.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dmccurtayne View Post
    Well if you can’t tell what your not getting while cranking you need to start somewhere if the car runs when clutch started it can’t be a fuse can it. The anti theft on these allow cranking so it’s possible that voltage getting to the ecu coil or even the immobiliser relay I’ve seen a shed load of cars do this over the years


    Garage C5 X7 3008 XTE
    Gone but not forgotten 206 GTI 180 306 XR SED 405 MI16 x2 xzara VTS 406 SV 206 XT Berlingo 2011 (best car ever) 306 HDI 307 XSE HDI touring
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    I get what you're saying, like I said It cranks, gets fuel and stops at the getting spark as far as I can tell. I haven't got a meter myself but I can go get one. It'll sound totally retarded but how would I accurately test such? I'm not used to having to deal electrically ^^ unless it's butt ass simple but I catch on. Also if it helps the car lets of 3 "Beep beeps" when you stop cranking/inbetween as the same as if you were to remove the key (Idk if this means anything, French cars haha)
    As for fuses I went down that route as I've heard the 5amp fuses blowing can cause the immobiliser/antitheft to trigger and since I KNOW they had been played with I thought that was an ideal place to start.
    After searching many many posts and threads from all sorts of places I am more hinting at somehow the immobiliser stopping it as most similar problems have been such but as I said I'm more stumped than anything and thought asking for potential aid before I ruin anything or lose my shit would be a preferable solution
    Last edited by KiwiStyles; 28th March 2019 at 04:33 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by seasink View Post
    I have the diagrams, but can't get them readable under 106 KB, so cannot attach them. Sorry.
    You could upload them to an image host site like I have had to with all my photos? There's no way I was getting my 3mb per photos under 100kb haha. I simply used the img /img tags to attach them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dmccurtayne View Post
    Well if you can’t tell what your not getting while cranking you need to start somewhere if the car runs when clutch started it can’t be a fuse can it. The anti theft on these allow cranking so it’s possible that voltage getting to the ecu coil or even the immobiliser relay I’ve seen a shed load of cars do this over the years


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    I apologise for the few posts in a row just getting information and uncovering more as I go.
    After speaking with the previous owner a bit more he's stumped but also thinks it's the coil pack (well that's the only thing not going on key start) and pretty much it was fine when he parked it up 6 months or so ago and he yanked his battery. so somewhere between there it's playing up. I'm going to swap the battery out of my other pug tomorrow and see if it is any happier otherwise I'm probably still stuck at the anti theft/ immobiliser somehow being active. What steps would be entailed around problem shooting that (obviously need to test as you mentioned) just considering you have seen these same issues or at least similar before. I've done things like unplug replug the grey box under the rear seat, turned the key to on position with battery connected, disconnected battery with key still in on and reconnected all to no avail. Obviously the pug is recognising my key as it does the beeps that apparently don't occur if it doesn't recognize it.

    AAAnd for the future, is it possible to disable the immobiliser/antitheft altogether?

    I also apologise for any ramblyness or what have you a lot of hours in a short amount of time trying to figure these things out

    Edit:
    Have now read that it could be due to the inertia switch located somewhere behind the right hand side of the engine block, unplugging that and apparently shorting the pins using a paper clip or so has fixed some peoples related problems. Does that sound viable? Also to check earthing etc however I'm currently unsure where the earths are located (at risk of sounding like a dunce)
    Last edited by KiwiStyles; 28th March 2019 at 06:49 PM.

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    1000+ Posts dmccurtayne's Avatar
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    The impact switch is one the passenger strut tower and is orange red or black is easily visible but the car wonít start with this failed no fuel , have a look on utube on how and why to do voltage drop tests Iím sure there is plenty of videos on this. The twin relay behind the battery box is controlled by the immobiliser so both points of this relay close coils on these rarely fail easy to check spark pull the coil out and jam a spark plug in the engine lifting lug and crank it when you say itís got fuel I assume you mean pressure not injection pulse


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    Quote Originally Posted by dmccurtayne View Post
    The impact switch is one the passenger strut tower and is orange red or black is easily visible but the car won’t start with this failed no fuel , have a look on utube on how and why to do voltage drop tests I’m sure there is plenty of videos on this. The twin relay behind the battery box is controlled by the immobiliser so both points of this relay close coils on these rarely fail easy to check spark pull the coil out and jam a spark plug in the engine lifting lug and crank it when you say it’s got fuel I assume you mean pressure not injection pulse


    Garage C5 X7 3008 XTE
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    Fix it right the first time
    Well yeah I'd say pressure, if it had no fuel it wouldn't have ran fullstop even after a rollstart (presumably) I've just found a video on the twin relay, apparently they can tend to get corrosion so I'll try have a look at that as well as test for spark considering it'sa whole coil pack hopefully I can get a decent angle in to jam them somewhere. What do you mean by the impact switch failing? sorry just wording doesn't quite make sense to me. Are you saying if that was at fault it wouldn't have ran at all? even after a roll start? I do seem to remember hearing it clicking when I had they key on and reconnected battery etc.
    I was only asking on how to do the voltage test because I was more asking specifically on the 306 as youtube fails there and I'd rather not confuse myself staring at a completely different setup. Atleast I have a number of options to try and you've helped me atleast track down a few more possibilities. Just hoping for that one to give satisfying results.
    Also what CCA rating is recommended for a 306 like this? I have a 390 and going to try my 450 tomorrow as well before deciding if I need to replace (My 450 is certainly good, the 390 either needs a recharge or if buggered replacement) I'd imagine 390 would be enough for a 1.8 petrol as they're generally fine in 1.8l-2l jappers but then again this is a frenchy.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dmccurtayne View Post
    The impact switch is one the passenger strut tower and is orange red or black is easily visible but the car won’t start with this failed no fuel , have a look on utube on how and why to do voltage drop tests I’m sure there is plenty of videos on this. The twin relay behind the battery box is controlled by the immobiliser so both points of this relay close coils on these rarely fail easy to check spark pull the coil out and jam a spark plug in the engine lifting lug and crank it when you say it’s got fuel I assume you mean pressure not injection pulse


    Garage C5 X7 3008 XTE
    Gone but not forgotten 206 GTI 180 306 XR SED 405 MI16 x2 xzara VTS 406 SV 206 XT Berlingo 2011 (best car ever) 306 HDI 307 XSE HDI touring
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    After what time I've had today I've checked the twin relay, works fine, certainly fuel pressure as well. I cleaned the ground from the coil pack, impact switch was fine as you thought. Going to check spark when I have more time this afternoon but after this That's where I'm assuming the problem is whether something stopping the actual coils or they're dead (don't see how as once again it went with a roll start and also I can literally unplug them to create the same only cranking and no noise lost from the spark not going considering it never went before I unplugged it too.) I've also hooked up a larger battery since it only had a pokey wee thing in it temporarily and that seemed to change nothing whatsoever. I haven't got a tester yet I'm just trying to go through the main faults first because that's what I have available to me right now.
    Basically what are the main reasons at turn key something would be stopping the coilpack from actually engaging and what various things can I do to try remedy this. (more commonly)

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    1000+ Posts dmccurtayne's Avatar
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    Iíve gone over the basics maybe jump the starter remotely that might tell you if your ignition switch is stuffed but I doubt it


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    Also the ground that runs from the ECU and is somewhere underneath the car, does anyone know where that is in terms of location underneath the car I can squeeze under it without lifting it up but can't exactly be searching for it. atleast to clean that as well and see if it's properly attached.

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