Swapped 306 gearbox - now won't start
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Thread: Swapped 306 gearbox - now won't start

  1. #1
    Member Ginch's Avatar
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    Default Swapped 306 gearbox -now won't start

    I imagine this is some stupid thing I've done, but after spending an embarrassingly long time changing over the (manual) gearbox in the 306 XSI, it now won't start.
    As far as I can tell, everything is hooked up just the same as previously. I had the computer disconnected, and since it only seems to go back in the one way I'm not suspecting that.

    It seemed to catch once or twice last night just briefly, I thought maybe the choke didn't do it's thing after I tried using the accelerator, so I left it until this morning. No luck.

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    Is there anything electrical attached to the gearbox that will stop it from starting? I swapped the switches over from old to the 'new' box so should behave as before.

    All suggestions gratefully received!

    [Here's the previous gearbox thread, thanks once again Demannu for his kind help with the BE3! Will a 206 gearbox fit a 306?
    Last edited by Ginch; 24th January 2019 at 07:37 AM.

  2. #2
    COL
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    No expert on these cars but have you done the basics like make sure there is a spark by removing a plug and crank over the engine.

    Also have you checked that you have fuel at the injectors?

    Another thing I have just thought of associated with spark is TDC sensor.

    Just my worth.
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    Fellow Frogger!
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    check the crank angle sensor , small black plastic held with 1 screw with a wire attached , in bell housing

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    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    Another thing to check is the inertia switch, if fitted.

    On some 306s, there is an inertia switch behind the ECU box. It will have a red or black rubber cap. Press down on the rubber cap to reset it.

    The inertia switch disables the fuel pump by electrically isolating it in case of a good bump to the car. When you're pulling these things apart, they are easy to bump, and can even trip just by putting them on the wrong angle.

    And easy fix if it's the problem!
    Scotty

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    I ran out of time last night and only had a quick test this morning but will have a proper look after work. I think I'll start with the specifics before the more general spark/fuel etc. Thanks Col.

    The crank angle sensor was swapped from the old box - there wasn't one on the replacement. But I'll check that they were both in the same relative position as the bell housings were a little different. Cheers Alpine.

    I've seen that red rubber thing there and been tempted in the past to press it Scotty. Thought it may have been an under bonnet starter button... I had something years ago with one. Fingers crossed it's as easy as that... feel like I could use a break after sweating it out under the car the last few days! My mate says it's all good training for the next time I do it... expletive deleted!

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    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    You might need to press it quite firmly, if it had tripped you will usually feel a slight 'click' as it re-latches.
    Scotty

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    Firmly. Not with a hammer. Got it.

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    Ok, no luck with the inertia switch. It wouldn't click down at all. I also tried bypassing it as suggested on another forum.

    Had a pretty good look to see if there were any loose connections and everything seemed ok.
    Tried simply disconnecting the crank position sensor which didn't help... thought about pulling it out but I don't think I'd be any wiser afterwards. If there does happen to be something wrong with it how would I know?

    I had a look to see if there was some way of checking for fuel, but I'm not sure how to do that non-destructively? I read somewhere that you could check at the fuel pressure relief valve on the end of the rail, is that something that can be closed up again?

    Last indignity was I thought that at least I could check for spark... until I took that cover off! By the look of the rivets, there are no user-servicable parts inside. Where is that "I'm being slowly ground down by this" emoticon?

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    Also, is there some kind of immobiliser switch somewhere in the system?

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    Try the easy things next. Start by spraying some aerostart in the throttle body, whilst open. If it starts its fuel related. If it doesnt its spark related. Also you would have removed the battery box when you did the box. Did you plug the relay bolted to the back of the box back in, can be easily forgotten!

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    I did try a liberal amount of aerostart, no response. The only relay I can see behind the battery box is the big one with 15 or 20 wires in? I didn't disconnect that one. Can't find a proper spot for it and it just sort of hangs there. I do notice the cover is broken, it was that way when I pulled everything apart.

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    did you re check computer connections...I hate aerostart...too severe......Super cheap degreaser....way cheaper...more lubricant...never not worked.

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    UFO
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    Stupid question.

    Is there an earth strap attached to the engine? Or should there be? If so is the bolt tight?
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    Yes Pekay I rechecked computer connections, pretty hard to get wrong (unfortunately in this case!).
    So are you saying you use the degreaser as an Aerostart substitute?? That's surprising!

    There is an earth strap that goes direct to the battery and connects to something else as well. Thanks UFO.

    I bought a new main/fuel relay - well not new new, Peugeot wanted $175 for it - but second hand from French Connection. Did n't make any difference. After trying that I went straight to the auto electrician and booked him in. I know when I'm beat.

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    1000+ Posts Ken W's Avatar
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    Did you try some new spark plugs?

    Ken

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    I didn't Ken. I figure if they were playing up then one, two or three might misfire but I'd get at least a kick out of one! As it is there is no sign of life, apart from turning over nicely.
    In my dream I see the auto elec having a look and finding a loose connection within the first 30 seconds and off he goes. I can handle that kind of embarrassment! Just don't want him there for hours!

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    Have you taken the plugs out in case it’s horrobly flooded and very wet in there? It infers your rings seal well

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    Quote Originally Posted by UFO View Post
    Stupid question.
    Is there an earth strap attached to the engine? Or should there be? If so is the bolt tight?
    Congratulations UFO! You win the kewpie doll! The auto elec had his meter connected but it didn't show anything... just poking around (with the ignition on) made the relay click when he bumped the disconnected earth wires.

    The stupid part was me not seeing those other earth wires... I put masking tape around them and they got all greasy and invisible! I had sort of tucked them out of the way and they weren't obvious from above or below.

    Anyway. Now. No 5th or reverse! The gearstick doesn't feel like it wants to go very far to the left any more, but it selects 1-4 fine. Just not either of the gears on the right. I disconnected the long linkage at Demannu's suggestion in case there was some kind of issue there and tried to manually move the selector shaft into the reverse position. It won't go, not even with some force behind it.
    The box was originally from a 405, still a BE3, with my linkages and lever arm swapped over. Sigh.
    Last edited by Ginch; 24th January 2019 at 07:33 AM.
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    Did you by any chance remove the flywheel,is it possible that it has been not been replaced the same way causing the crank angle sensor to ,be miss aligned ,i had this problem with my sons volvo ,after a crank seal replacement ,i had to be particular about how the flywheel was aligned ,so the notch in the flywheel that triggered the sender ,was aligned to the ,movement of the correct piston ,so the sparks happening at the right time ,some engines have a dowel or unequally spaced bolts ,so this isnt possible . Not the volvo

  20. #20
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Congrats on getting it going!

    I would have thought it was an issue with the length of the shifting rods. They may be adjustable and could/should be lengthened to get it to reach into those last two gears. BUT, it doesn't sound good that you can't force them in by hand. Also makes no sense. Have you got them connected the right way?

    Erik

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    Member Ginch's Avatar
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    Cheers Pugwash, not that as the flywheel was left in place. UFO picked it, disconnected earth that I thought was dealt with.

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    Member Ginch's Avatar
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    Thanks Erik! They are not adjustable, and I measured them just to be sure. They would seem to be the correct length.

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    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    Do you have both of the short linkages connected?
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

    1956 Peugeot 403 - 'Francois' - resto project

    1969 Peugeot 504 - 'Pascal' - daily driver project

    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility - 'Brutus' - resto project

    1978 Peugeot 604 - as yet unnamed - V6 on straight LPG

    1987 Peugeot 505 - as yet unnamed - project car

    1999 Peugeot 406 Coupé - 'Chloe' - 5 speed manual

    2011 Peugeot 3008 XTE HDi - 'Zoe' - hatchback on steroids

    2014 Peugeot RCZ - 'Remy'

    1999 Range Rover 4.6 HSE - 'Grover' - tow car

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    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    Also, I can't remember which linkages were hanging off that gearbox when you took it.

    The 306 linkages should be 260.5mm for the long one, and 106mm for the short ones.

    The 405 linkages would be 246mm for the long one, and 101.5mm for the short ones.

    You will need to use the 306 linkages, regardless of the origin of the gearbox.
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

    1956 Peugeot 403 - 'Francois' - resto project

    1969 Peugeot 504 - 'Pascal' - daily driver project

    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility - 'Brutus' - resto project

    1978 Peugeot 604 - as yet unnamed - V6 on straight LPG

    1987 Peugeot 505 - as yet unnamed - project car

    1999 Peugeot 406 Coupé - 'Chloe' - 5 speed manual

    2011 Peugeot 3008 XTE HDi - 'Zoe' - hatchback on steroids

    2014 Peugeot RCZ - 'Remy'

    1999 Range Rover 4.6 HSE - 'Grover' - tow car

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    Member Ginch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Demannu View Post
    Also, I can't remember which linkages were hanging off that gearbox when you took it.

    The 306 linkages should be 260.5mm for the long one, and 106mm for the short ones.

    The 405 linkages would be 246mm for the long one, and 101.5mm for the short ones.

    You will need to use the 306 linkages, regardless of the origin of the gearbox.
    The linkages that were on it were different than what was on my car, so I swapped them all over, including the lever and bracket as in this pic.
    Clipboard01.jpg

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