Peugeot 505 v6 swap questions
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Thread: Peugeot 505 v6 swap questions

  1. #1
    Tadpole
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    Icon5 Peugeot 505 v6 swap questions

    Hello Aussie Froggers

    I been looking through threads trying to pick through the find the answers to my questions.

    I have a 1982 Peugeot 505 STI that was imported to NZ from the UK in 1982. Its running a jket ZEJ 2.0 mated to a BA10/5 (or at least I believe this is the case because of the three bolt plate at the back) which according ot the odomerter has 343k on the clock.

    I am currently pulling it apart to replace the cambelt ( time of previous change unknown) but have come across a number of v6 threads that have peaked my interest

    I have made a few contacts since owning the car and getting hold of a prv6 seems plausable at this stage. In NZ thre is the occasional 505 v6popping up on trademe (kiwi ebay) but more common are volvo 700’s,900s and later model 24v Peugeot and Citreons.

    I still have a few questions from things I have read on forums and been told in person.

    1) Will my BA10/5 mounted to ZEJ bolt directly onto a ZN3J or the volvo equivalent (B280E?) or will I need some kind of adaptor plate.

    2) Changing between 1 and 2 is rough so suspect will need to have syncos done. Gearbox must have been leaking at somepoint because someone ran gasket leak stopper of somekind, will this make taking it apart (by me if I have a crack or specialist) difficult ?

    3) I have been told that if you swap a ZN3J into a 505 that orignally had a 4 pot you will need to source a subframe from a v6 505, is this the case ?

    4) Any major differences between the ZN3J or volvo equiverlent in terms of mounting points ?

    Any constructive feedback will be much appreciated.

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  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger!
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    The v6 bellhousing and Input shaft are totally different to your existing ba7/5 box that should be in your car now.
    The v6 engine has a radically different bellhousing to the 4/5 speed Xn and Zdj engines.

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the reply Ian, pretty sure the gearbox is ba10/5 based on what the internet says (drawing) and whats lurking under the car (photo)

    Peugeot 505 v6 swap questions-ba7.4-ba7.5.3.jpgPeugeot 505 v6 swap questions-gearbox.jpg

    If the gearbox in my car is a ba10/5 does that make any difference regarding the input shaft and mean I just need to find or have a bellhousing fabricated,

    Thanks again
    Last edited by captainsprings; 8th July 2018 at 08:27 PM.

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger!
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    The Bellhousings are different for each engine applicasion and can be interchanged between most Ba10 0r 7 applications but input shafts vary with each bellhousing but you should be able to find a matching set if you have enough boxes to play with.
    Others here may have some more specific info on this.

  5. #5
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by captainsprings View Post
    1) Will my BA10/5 mounted to ZEJ bolt directly onto a ZN3J or the volvo equivalent (B280E?) or will I need some kind of adaptor plate.
    The bell housing is completely different between the Z series 4 cylinder engines and the PRV V6s. However, as you have the very rare 2.0 ZEJK/BA10/5 combo, your input shaft is the right length and can be used with a V6 bell housing - in fact my 504 V6 is running exactly that combination. It actually widens your choice of clutches available, as the V6 clutch plate is becoming difficult to source.

    Bellhousings are available from time to time, probably easier to find in NZ than Aus. You could go down the adaptor plate route, and there may be advantages to that - see point 3 below.

    Quote Originally Posted by captainsprings View Post
    2) Changing between 1 and 2 is rough so suspect will need to have syncos done. Gearbox must have been leaking at somepoint because someone ran gasket leak stopper of somekind, will this make taking it apart (by me if I have a crack or specialist) difficult ?
    Gearbox is easy to get apart. Leaks are not uncommon on these gearboxes. Synchros are still available. If 1st and 2nd gear synchros are dead, I suspect the energiser spring is broken - common problem on BA10s. Also cheap and available. I had thicker, stronger ones made for my gearboxes. Makes the gear change nicer, but might affect the longevity of the synchro cones themselves.

    Quote Originally Posted by captainsprings View Post
    3) I have been told that if you swap a ZN3J into a 505 that orignally had a 4 pot you will need to source a subframe from a v6 505, is this the case ?
    Not necessarily. If you use 604 engine mounts, they will bolt straight to the 4 cylinder crossmember. However, in a RHD 505, in this position, the LH cylinder head fouls on the heater fan box. You can cut and shut a section of the heater blower housing to provide clearance, but obviously this will impact your HVAC system.

    The factory 505 V6 engine mount/crossmember arrangement has the engine sitting further forward. To use this, you also need the longer torque tube and tailshaft to suit.

    If you were to use an adaptor plate between the engine and bell housing, or between the bell housing and gearbox, you could potentially provide this little bit of extra clearance, however you might need to customise the engine mounts to achieve this. The other limitation is the clearance between the lower 'legs' on the back of the block clearing the steering rack.

    Quote Originally Posted by captainsprings View Post
    4) Any major differences between the ZN3J or volvo equiverlent in terms of mounting points ?
    Nope, 504 V6, 604 V6, 505 V6, Talbot Tagora, Volvo B27/B28/B280 all use identical bottom ends of the block. The only differences were in the transaxle Renault applications, and the FWD variants used in the Citroen XM, Renault Laguna/Safrane and Peugeot 605.
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  6. #6
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    Don't bother, not a great result in the end, unless you extensively modify the V6. Stock or modified you will also use heaps of fuel.
    I would convert the injection to EFI by using 505 GTi hardware then fit an after market ECU. I had a ZEJ running on LPG and was impressed, I think better than the long stroke ZDJ. Alternatively, being in NZ you could probably obtain a 12 valve Douvrin 4 from a Safrane. I saw one at a Christchurch wreckers 4 or 5 years ago. Once again a fair bit of work for probably not a lot of benefit, I think just optimise the ZEJ.
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  7. #7
    Tadpole
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    One thing I forgot to ask, is there any difference between a v6 ba10 bellhousing from LHD market like Germany,France etc vs rhd like Aussie or UK ?

    Thanks for the feedback Graham, I was looking into Renault Douvrin's from a while but haven't seen anything popup over the last couple months so put that one to bed. The ultimate goal if I was to go v6 would be to turbo which if can get it working would justify the effort in my opinion or failing that a later model 24v v6. The ZEJ with Kjet wasn't partially frugal in my car.

    I saw one forum member had a v6 from a Laguna in his 86 STI but haven't been able to find much info on the conversion process, is there a project thread somewhere on frogs or elsewhere ?

    Thanks again

  8. #8
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    Yes, left and right had drive bellhousings for V6. ZEJ with K-Jetronic wouldn't be frugal, our ZDJK with same system was terrible.

  9. #9
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    Graham, when you converted your previous car to EFI how much of the stock wiring loom did you use or did you just source a new / replacement one ?

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    Used a new one. I fitted Megasquirt and loom was from DIY Autotune in the US.
    >

    Quote Originally Posted by captainsprings View Post
    Graham, when you converted your previous car to EFI how much of the stock wiring loom did you use or did you just source a new / replacement one ?

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