Throttle cable for 205gti with twin carb conversion
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Thread: Throttle cable for 205gti with twin carb conversion

  1. #1
    Tadpole wridej's Avatar
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    Default Throttle cable for 205gti with twin carb conversion

    Hello all, long time since I made a post.

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    I've just got my gti running again after a complete engine rebuild with high compression forged pistons and rods, new crank out of a diesel, machined down to fit in the 1.9 petrol block, cat cams "hot street/dirt track" camshaft, and most importantly the twin Weber 45 DCOE carbies. At the moment I have no exhaust except the open tubular headers and it sounds real mad. I'm so happy with it. Especially that it even runs, being my first engine rebuild ever. Now it's just tuning, tuning, tuning.

    One of the last things I need to do before I can even drive it is attach the throttle cable. I bought a Weber throttle cable (stock gti cable was too short for the linkage kit I've used) with my carbies which fits perfectly for the carb end, but I've been stuck trying to figure out how to attach it to the accelerator pedal.

    I've thought of making brackets and have a rough idea of how to do it, but thought I might ask how anyone else who has done the carb conversion did it. Can't seem to find any info about this anywhere.

    Cheers guys.
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  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! Bluey's Avatar
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    Buy a generic pushbike 'gear' cable. One end will clip into the white plastic clip on the pedal. Cut the outer to length. It will fit in the 205 firewall boss fine. Terminate the engine side with a generic ferrule. You should be able to get a ferrule from a local parts store.

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bluey View Post
    Buy a generic pushbike 'gear' cable. One end will clip into the white plastic clip on the pedal. Cut the outer to length. It will fit in the 205 firewall boss fine. Terminate the engine side with a generic ferrule. You should be able to get a ferrule from a local parts store.
    A tip : tin/flood the cable cut point with soft solder before cutting the inner. This reduces the possibility of the cable fraying.

    I have found an angle grinder with a thin metal cutting blade cuts cables cleanly.

    Bicycle hand brake cables work well too and are a heavier duty cable than the derailleur cables.
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  4. #4
    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    Brake cables have a larger nipple than derailleur cables. Maybe you can jam it in.

    What diesel crank did you use? The XU9D 88mm diesel crank drops straight in.

    '92 205 Mi16
    '90 Mi16x4

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Maybe you can jam it in.
    Personally, I'd choose the file or gently grind to size approach.

    Especially with "white plastic" pedal clip in the equation.
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  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! Bluey's Avatar
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    I agree with the brake cable being sturdier but I recommended the gear cable because the nipple clips straight in to the plastic clip. The brake cable nipples are too large.

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bluey View Post
    I agree with the brake cable being sturdier but I recommended the gear cable because the nipple clips straight in to the plastic clip. The brake cable nipples are too large.
    And taken on board, from someone who has the detailed product knowledge that I lack.
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  8. #8
    Tadpole wridej's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterT View Post
    What diesel crank did you use? The XU9D 88mm diesel crank drops straight in.
    DW10 crank. Out of a 406 2l I think. Same 88mm stroke and journal sizes. Counterweights had to be machined down as they hit the block on flywheel and pully ends. Then rebalanced with new pistons, rods etc.

    I'll have to try some of these ideas, hopefully I've still got my standard accelerator cable somewhere to rob the parts off it.

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