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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by pgti6 View Post
    This has been an interesting and timely thread ...

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    Assuming that PSA has learnt nothing other than emissions control, the 1.2 would suffer the same poor engineering of the EP6?
    I would keep asking the question. I have heard that the 1.2 is much better engineered than the 1.6!

  2. #27
    Fellow Frogger! Mi16 Man's Avatar
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    This works a treat too...


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  3. #28
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    NO! T'was a poor Stuey joke. I realised the joke wouldn't work when I thought...hmmm, that sounds actually quite feasible...


    Quote Originally Posted by cam85 View Post
    Is that so?

    It should work, not sure how it would go with being burnt through the engine..


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  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by cam85 View Post
    Is that so?

    It should work, not sure how it would go with being burnt through the engine..
    Burning would be fine, but I wonder how soon after that you have to replace the head given that oven cleaner is actually sodium hydroxide, which as we all know from school chemistry is going to attack Aluminium like it's nobody's business.

    I am sure it works a treat with dissolving the crud, though.
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  5. #30
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    I'm not sure I'd use various additives that claim to clean the engine ESPECIALLY ones that you spray into the intake with the engine idling. That shit is gonna end up all over the sensors in the exhaust and the catalytic converters, who knows what damage it will cause there?

    I'm not into half measures.

    The safest course of action is to pop off the intake and walnut blast it.

    Here's a guy doing it on his mini (same EP6 engine but the engine layout is slightly different)

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KFvXbTIiAVY

  6. #31
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    Useful info about the problem but not very helpful to PSA owners. The access in the Mini is better (less windscreen overhang) and the air cleaner and air ducting is different.

    Walnut blasting is great for the few places that have gear that fits.

    Dealers use a different tool.

    Hand scraping always works and a small scraper is cheap. Some compressed air helps to blow crap out, but even aerosol air will do.

    Don't under-estimate the time to strip and replace the manifold. There are electrovalves, connections, etc buried away down in there and it helps to know where they and their fixings are, as vision is exceptionally poor. It isn't essential to remove the injector rail, but I reckon it helps access. The valves must be closed as the video mentions.

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by seasink View Post
    not very helpful to PSA owners. The access in the Mini is better (less windscreen overhang) and the air cleaner and air ducting is different.
    Same engine but with slight difference - definitely useful. If you are skilled enough to attempt a job like this you can use that video as a reference and figure out the rest as you go.

    Quote Originally Posted by seasink View Post
    Walnut blasting is great for the few places that have gear that fits.
    Walnut blasting isn't some sort of amazing specialised thing, all you need is an air compressor, media and a blasting "gun" with suction feed and you're away. The media in this case is fine walnut shells which incidentally is used for cleaning firearms so your local firearm supply shop should be able to help you if you find that it is not readily available.

    Quote Originally Posted by seasink View Post
    Hand scraping always works and a small scraper is cheap. Some compressed air helps to blow crap out, but even aerosol air will do.
    Any solvent will do in a pinch. You could probably get away by pouring petrol in there, wait, scrub with wire brush and a pick then compressed air / vacuum out the leftover pieces. But if you're going to go to all the trouble to do this (remove intake etc), I figure it is better to spend the extra $100-$150 and buy the media blaster gun + media and do it properly.

    A great portion of modern turbocharged vehicles are now DI; whatever parts I buy for this will no doubt come in handy in the future.

    Removing the intake is the most complex part of this job.

    I'm just waiting on my media to arrive, once I have this I'll post a complete how-to with before-after pictures.

  8. #33
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    Each to their own but you will get adequate cleaning using Carby clean, a toothbrush, a teaspoon and compressed air. Also two steps forward, one step back if you don't fit a catch can to alleviate the issue.

  9. #34
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    I tried that once. It doesn't do it, not when the crud builds up. A catch canl help, but won't stop it. I suggest that C2 low ash oil, as now recommended, will be more useful.

  10. #35
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    Direct injection is here to stay.

    However, some manufacturers are playing with dual injection systems. So running both port and direct injection. There are alot of benefits to this as you can play with the fuel maps more especially engines with VVT & VVL, also removes/reduces the issues with the valve and port clogging as the fuel is washing over the port and valves.

    id HIGHLY recommend following this process

    - Media Blast on any EP6 after 80,000 km.
    - Delete the factory PCV system and install a catch can.
    - Only use Low Ash C2 engine oils.
    - Only use 98RON Fuel.
    - Service every 5,000 km.
    - Carry out a seafoam/ upper engine clean every 5,000km (carry this out BEFORE you do the oil change.)

    For those wanting some extra power and clean - look into a water/meth kit
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  11. #36
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    Actually these oils are causing a ton of problems to these engine due to being too volatile thus generating lots of vapor (specially in hot climates).
    I have been using BMW LL01 oils (= PSA B71 2296) for years now with zero problems concerning carbon buildup or flat spots or rough idle. Also the keep going for 10k Kms without the need to top up as the dreaded C2 & C3 oils do.
    BMW forbids the use of LL04 (= PSA B71 2297 or B71 2290) outside of Europe for these engine.

    Quote Originally Posted by seasink View Post
    I tried that once. It doesn't do it, not when the crud builds up. A catch canl help, but won't stop it. I suggest that C2 low ash oil, as now recommended, will be more useful.
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