206 GTi 180- RH rear tyre rubbing on inner guard-could this be a hub bearing fai
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Thread: 206 GTi 180- RH rear tyre rubbing on inner guard-could this be a hub bearing fai

  1. #1
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    Default 206 GTi 180- RH rear tyre rubbing on inner guard-could this be a hub bearing fai

    Hi all, I have recently bought a 2004 206 GTi 180, done 200,00 km. It had been laid up for 2 1/2 years, so needs work. It failed a NZ WOF test for "too much play in FW bearing, and RH tyre rubbing on the inner guard on the inner wall of that tyre. I had fitted 4 new 205/40R17 tyres as old tyres were bald, the old worn rear tyre did not seem to be rubbing when I test drove car.
    What is the most likely cause of that tyre rubbing on guard, is it likely to be a failed(and collapsing) rear hub bearing? Bearing in mind the 200,000km showing on odo, and the fact that these cars have high performance and great grip with those wide 17' sticky tyres?
    What test(s) can I do to confirm cause of problem. If it is the hub bearing, can anyone supply the part number I will need as I will get from U.K. as so much cheaper than in NZ from Pug dealer.
    Any help you can supply would be much appreciated.
    For my sins, currently own a '70 404, '98 306 Cabri, an '02 406 Coupe V6 as well.

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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts Mike Tippett's Avatar
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    That bearing would have to be awfully loose to cause that. I am thinking it's shot bushings or subframe mounts.
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  3. #3
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    There is a bearing at the hub which could have failed. There's also a bearing where the arm attaches to the rear beam which could have failed. The subframe which holds the rear beam has bushes which might have worn.

    Jack up the rear, from the sills, and try to wobble them around from the wheel. It should be fairly clear which has failed.

    Alternatively, the rear could have been in a smash, and is no longer straight.

    As for part numbers. Sign up for an account at Service Box and you can look them up using your VIN.
    206 GTi 180 - Cat Cams, Remapped Group N ECU, AST Camber Tops & Coilovers, -2deg fixed camber hubs by Frogstomp Racing, 24mm Torsion Bars, AP Racing brakes, Yokohama A050, PeugeotSport Baffled Sump, Powerflex Engine Mounts & Bushings, Setrab Oil cooler, Quaife diff, Velo seats.

    Sandown - 1:31.5
    Winton - 1:45.6
    Phillip Island - 1:58.4
    Nürburgring - 10:23.ish (Fiesta ST)

    Previously, 2x 504 Wagon, 505 Wagon, 505 STi, 405.

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    Isn't 'FW' front wheel?

    I know it's more likely it's the rear as the only way the front would rub is on lock, but just checking.

    By the way, the slight rear negative camber is pretty obvious even on a good one even though it's only about a degree of negative, so if one side is about 3 degrees + as I'd expect it would need to be to be rubbing I reckon it will stand out like dogs bollocks looking from the rear view.


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    Its rear tyre rubbing on inside inner guard. I will check for camber angle by standing well back on lower ground, other side is fine with new tyre.

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    Thanks Mike, I notice that the RH rear radius arm bush is very worn, might that alone upset the camber enough for rubbing at top of tyre?

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    I think it much more likely that it would be the bearing where trailing arm attaches to the beam, if so is that a big and difficult job to do?

    I have already asked Dean Hunter in UK for a price on rear radius arm rubber bush & that looks a straight forward job to do myself. Cheers

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mi16freak View Post
    I think it much more likely that it would be the bearing where trailing arm attaches to the beam, if so is that a big and difficult job to do?
    I've done it once, I don't remember it being particularly difficult. I forget if I used it, but I do have a slide hammer and puller set for things like this.
    Youtube is your friend.
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    206 GTi 180 - Cat Cams, Remapped Group N ECU, AST Camber Tops & Coilovers, -2deg fixed camber hubs by Frogstomp Racing, 24mm Torsion Bars, AP Racing brakes, Yokohama A050, PeugeotSport Baffled Sump, Powerflex Engine Mounts & Bushings, Setrab Oil cooler, Quaife diff, Velo seats.

    Sandown - 1:31.5
    Winton - 1:45.6
    Phillip Island - 1:58.4
    Nürburgring - 10:23.ish (Fiesta ST)

    Previously, 2x 504 Wagon, 505 Wagon, 505 STi, 405.

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    Thanks Stuey, that thread from UK revealed all. Similar to my problem, but mine not nearly as bad. My car was owned by a young guy and had been driven hard, hence that wear & the worn radius arm bush. But he laid up the car when problem occured. I will have no hope of getting a GTi180 beam in NZ, so will have to buy parts & rebuild the components.
    Mike Tippett likes this.

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    Thanks very much, that Utube vid was brilliant, I dont have the range of tools that mechanic had. What was remarkable was the amount of corrosion everywhere, salted British roads probably the culprit. Appreciate your help.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mi16freak View Post
    I will have no hope of getting a GTi180 beam in NZ, so will have to buy parts & rebuild the components.
    I wouldn't rule it out. I see 180's on trademe fairly regularly, as well as plenty of regular GTI's. There will definitely be a few in wreckers. I know the 180 has the extra supports, but I think that could probably be transferred between beams.

    You'll probably be ok though in just replacing the bearings, the corrosion in UK isn't so common in NZ.
    206 GTi 180 - Cat Cams, Remapped Group N ECU, AST Camber Tops & Coilovers, -2deg fixed camber hubs by Frogstomp Racing, 24mm Torsion Bars, AP Racing brakes, Yokohama A050, PeugeotSport Baffled Sump, Powerflex Engine Mounts & Bushings, Setrab Oil cooler, Quaife diff, Velo seats.

    Sandown - 1:31.5
    Winton - 1:45.6
    Phillip Island - 1:58.4
    Nürburgring - 10:23.ish (Fiesta ST)

    Previously, 2x 504 Wagon, 505 Wagon, 505 STi, 405.

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    I jacked up the car yesterday to rock the wheel to check for play, it was negligible but a mate suggested that was probably because of the radius arm on the 180, which is not present on other 206s, which gives more stability to rear suspension. I will buy a trailing arm bearing repair kit from ebay. When the wheel was removed the rubbing on the bodywork was very evident.

  14. #14
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    Not sure where my post went... Hmm. Anyway, check that there's not a whole load of rocks and dirt stuck behind the plastic lining and that all clips are in place.

    My 306 recently started rubbing in the right rear. It was simply dirt build up behind the lining and a few large rocks wedged in there. Cleaned it all out and made sure all the clips were in place and that solved it. Might be worth a look.

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    Thanks lowpugV2 but in my case its rubbing on the inside(inner) guard wall, which is metal bodywork & its rubbed through the paint leaving shiny steel, which I will have to prime & repaint after the arm bearings have been replaced & camber returns to normal.

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    You might also find the play isn't obvious due to the spring tension.


    2003 PEUGEOT 206 GTi

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