2003 307 2.0 ltr petrol EW10 Running Rough - Page 2
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Thread: 2003 307 2.0 ltr petrol EW10 Running Rough

  1. #26
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    Fob does not send signal directly, it is induced by antenna to do so, car / BSI / ECU would not allow this if it were not working, very little to go wrong, it encapsulated in Graphite, I nearly lost it when I did the Fob on my 307 it is so small / unobvious. Without it car just cranked.

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    I would add it might be the earths at issue, get some no-ox-id grease from ebay, use it with a cotton wool earbud and apply sparingly as required / everywhere you go. Electrics n the 307 / 407 are a weak point, earths in a multiplexed system are going to give multiple issues.
    Last edited by Matthew; 9th April 2018 at 08:01 PM.
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  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matthew View Post
    Fob does not send signal directly, it is induced by antenna to do so, car / BSI / ECU would not allow this if it were not working, very little to go wrong, it encapsulated in Graphite, I nearly lost it when I did the Fob on my 307 it is so small / unobvious. Without it car just cranked.

    I would add it might be the earths at issue, get some no-ox-id grease from ebay, use it with a cotton wool earbud and apply sparingly as required / everywhere you go. Electrics n the 307 / 407 are a weak point, earths in a multiplexed system are going to give multiple issues.
    Mathew...wherte is the antenna located?
    Is this in the COM2000?
    I agree about the earths and this will be my first port of call when car is home.
    At least having the fob checked will give me piece of mind...the first step
    on a long journey ;o))
    Cheers from Tazfrog
    2003 307 XSEA EW10J4 2.0 ltr petrol AL4
    China Blue with Charcoal interior

  3. #28
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    Well...the PP2k/Diag Box/Lexia-3 kit arrived today and all looks good and
    well made.
    The disc has me concerned though.
    Trying to work out which file has the download for the software.
    Cheers from Tazfrog
    2003 307 XSEA EW10J4 2.0 ltr petrol AL4
    China Blue with Charcoal interior

  4. #29
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    Fob antenna is the ring around the keyhole behind the plastic. Its the electrical connection (2 wire) to the mechanical key mechanism!

    Very interested in your PP2K etc, will discuss later.
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  5. #30
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    OK guys....have brought Peppi home from the dealers in Launceston.
    They relieved me of $260 for the two and a half weeks he was up there.
    I could not talk to the tech because he and one other were away on a weeks
    training in Sydney.
    That's something I suppose but doesn't do us any good.

    The car performed flawlessly for the 160klm journey with all systems working
    properly, engine, gearbox, brakes, lights, wipers, horns, air-con/heating.
    The things that don't work are:
    *Central locking doesn't work from fob.
    *C/locking does not work with key in door.
    *Interior lights do not come on when door is opened.
    *Turn ign. key to pos.1 and wipers front and rear sweep four times.
    *Cannot open hatch unless ign is on pos.2 and lock button on dash is pressed.
    *When radio is on, it emits a loud bleep, bleep.

    When I can figure out the PP2K disc and download to my laptop, I will be able to hopefully
    do some interrogating of my own.
    I have taken note of others comments regards broken wires and bad earths and
    I will concentrate on these to start with by removing drivers door card to give thorough
    check on internals including lock mechanism and switching, door loom and plugs.
    All the accessible earths will be cleaned and lubricated with di-electric grease.
    These have never been disturbed in 15 years..........The beat goes on ;o))
    Cheers from Tazfrog
    2003 307 XSEA EW10J4 2.0 ltr petrol AL4
    China Blue with Charcoal interior

  6. #31
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    Radio beep beep is mismatch to BSI for starters. NOt dielectric grease, that infers isolating two conductors (think capacitor) you need conductive grease, coloidal copper / silver for the no-ox-id I mentioned. Supercheap have one I think or Autobarn.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matthew View Post
    Radio beep beep is mismatch to BSI for starters. NOT dielectric grease, that infers isolating two conductors (think capacitor) you need conductive grease, colloidal copper / silver for the no-ox-id I mentioned. Supercheap have one I think or Autobarn.
    Hmmmm...that's strange, I have always used di-electric grease as a conductive medium
    with no problems....I'll have to re-assess.
    I guess the radio beeping will be part of the re configuration of PP2k?
    Cheers from Tazfrog
    2003 307 XSEA EW10J4 2.0 ltr petrol AL4
    China Blue with Charcoal interior

  8. #33
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    A di-electric is a none conductive medium afaik / was educated.
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  9. #34
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    Had an idea can you check if any door open shows up on the dash just to eliminate the drivers door at this stage.
    If dash light appears check map/interior lights are turned on and work with any door that appears on dash lights.

    Report back.

    I'm thinking drivers door switches are faulty or the relay or diode is open circuit on BSI.
    Yet to find a full circuit diagram of any BSI so wiring need to be traced.

    Could also be a burnt pin with the stupid Molex (?) Connectors on the BSI. Trace door to BSI cabling.



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    I seen similar things before. Let's assume that your driver's door central locking motor is fried and has taken out the door opening switch in the process. (It's all one component.)


    *Central locking doesn't work from fob. - because locking motor is fried
    *C/locking does not work with key in door. - because locking motor is fried
    *Interior lights do not come on when door is opened. - because door opening switch doesn't work
    *Turn ign. key to pos.1 and wipers front and rear sweep four times. - because the BSI can't understand how you turned the key on without getting into the car
    *Cannot open hatch unless ign is on pos.2 and lock button on dash is pressed. - because the hatch is deadlocked until you open a door, so no-one can steal your stuff at traffic lights.
    *When radio is on, it emits a loud bleep, bleep. - not sure about this one, but it may just be more confused BSI about the door not getting opened.

    Try the other doors on the car and see if the lights come on. You could try the passenger side central locking with key, but I don't think it will work either. If the interior light comes on with another door (even a back one) I bet you can open the hatch. I haven't had this problem with a 307 but I've had similar problems with a 206GTI and a Citroen C5.

    I have a working PP2000 set up and am not too far from you (Mole Creek) - but you probably don't need it to diagnose the problem.

    Hope that helps

    Kim
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  11. #36
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    Right gentlemen....present state of play.
    My wife and daughter have just returned after a 1000klm weekend down south of the state
    and the car ran perfectly....albeit without any central locking which remains the big issue.
    I have ordered a PP2k software package last week and will take another seven days.

    If lock button on dash is pressed all doors except the drivers door will lock, including hatch.
    If ign. is switched on, the hatch can be unlocked.
    he drivers door still does not react to fob and you have to lock it manually .
    I definitely agree that there is a problem in the drivers door c/locking switch, motor and
    plug loom.
    The interior lights still do not come on when door is opened.
    With key in ign. and door open there is no recognition warning bong.
    The BSI will definitely have to be re-programmed which hopefully will solve most glitches
    but the drivers door will need some work....when i get th chance to work on the car as
    my wife uses it every day for work at the local hospital ;o)
    The int. lights will not come on with any door being opened....but inside with all doors closed
    you can operated the int. and map lights no problem.
    Kim....if you could PM me regards your PP2k I would appreciate it....we could compare notes
    and as you're just up the road, we may be able to get together to nut this out.
    I wasn't impressed with the two weeks the car spent at the dealers in Launceston and achieved nothing!
    We have referred the matter to PSA Aust. and they are dealing with it.
    My e-mail is: [email protected] I do things a little slower these days with vision in one eye and les than 60% mobility on my left side....but we'll soldier on ;o))

    Cheers from Tazfrog
    2003 307 XSEA EW10J4 2.0 ltr petrol AL4
    China Blue with Charcoal interior

  12. #37
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    Well chaps....today I discovered that the drivers door locking motor definitely works!
    I backed car out of garage to give it a wash, got out left engine running and closed
    the door.
    Came back with bucket and shampoo and went to open the door....NO GO!
    Bugger!.....the central dash lock switch must have been in on mode but at least it proved
    the door motor is working.
    Luckily, I could open the door with the second manual key.

    I have had the key fob checked at the locksmiths and it's transmitting 433Mhz on both buttons.
    I'm also told that the antennae for the fobs signal acceptance is on the Comm2000.
    The pcb only deals with c/locking and the little black ceramic chip is solely used for the
    immobilizing circuit and receptor for this is the little plastic ring at base of ign. key

    So, all this nonsense still leads back to the BSI needing to be reprogrammed to gain c/locking.
    I'm also told that the c/locking module is part of the Valeo BSI pcb.
    All we are waiting for now is confirmation of a date to perform the work.
    PCA in Sydney have been in consultation with the dealer and they will be working in
    collaboration on the software updates and corrections.
    It's been a while now and we will be glad when it actually works,

    As an aside, I have been watching a few interesting you tube clips showing how to dismantle
    a comm2000 unit.
    I have also read that over time the little pcb in the key fob looses it's signal strength
    but as we get nio reaction from the fob at this stage, it's hard to know.
    I did a voltage and resistance check on the two Little switches on the pcb and they seem OK.
    Cheers from Tazfrog
    2003 307 XSEA EW10J4 2.0 ltr petrol AL4
    China Blue with Charcoal interior

  13. #38
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    Any update tazfrog?

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    Morning Dimistyle....at this stage we have had no word from Buckby's
    It's been two weeks now and i was going to give them a ring but Pam said no,
    let them reply.
    I can't just pop around to the service dept. to annoy them as we're 160klm away ;o)
    On top of the c/locking issues, we now also have to contend with the AL4 gearbox
    playing up....well, there's the rest of the day and the weekend....will give them a tingle
    on Monday as it will be two weeks and surely something must have happened with
    Sydney on their back.
    Cheers from Tazfrog
    2003 307 XSEA EW10J4 2.0 ltr petrol AL4
    China Blue with Charcoal interior

  15. #40
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    Oh no the AL4 strikes again. Fingers crossed I dont go through that again...well at least now I have a rebuilt spare.

    Your wife might be onto something there waiting patiently...my other half would give them 1/2 day max and be onto them.

    Hope you get a good surprise next week and c/ locking is all sorted.

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  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by dimistyle View Post
    Oh no the AL4 strikes again. Fingers crossed I dont go through that again...well at least now I have a rebuilt spare.

    Your wife might be onto something there waiting patiently...my other half would give them 1/2 day max and be onto them.

    Hope you get a good surprise next week and c/ locking is all sorted.

    Sent from my SM-G900I using aussiefrogs mobile app
    Hahahaa...yes, let's hope so! ;o)
    The AL4 only started to misbehave on the way up to Lonny 2 weeks ago
    with the classic dropping to 3rd and back to 4th...a few klm further on it
    would thump down to 3rd again...it bleeped a couple of times but the
    snow and sport lights did not flash.
    This occurred at 90-110kph and I continued on into Lonny without further incident.
    I'm beginning to wonder what they have found.
    Perhaps they have completely dismantled the car and spread it on the workshop floor
    a teaching exercise
    Will be interesting to see what they come up with.
    How big a job is it to change boxes?
    All it may need is an oil change and a couple of solenoids....we live in hope.
    Cheers from Tazfrog
    2003 307 XSEA EW10J4 2.0 ltr petrol AL4
    China Blue with Charcoal interior

  17. #42
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    I've only changed the AL4 in our C5 (Carlo5) about 4 times the first time to get it moving which it lost 1st and 2nd after the first test run, multiple value body solenoids and fluid. Then a rebuilt box another 3 times on the side of the road.

    I had to disconnect the sub frame and drop the box out while using either an engine hoist or the engine bar to hold the engine.
    I had it down pack on the 4 time.

    1 man with patients and all the tools at the ready but usually 1 grumpy man and a whole lot of borrowed tools

    Carlo5 still throws a wobbly but usually due to the selector switch needing replacing as doesn't show D for drive.

    Onwards and up wards. ...

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  18. #43
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    The tyranny of distance and grumpy men. If only not for that we could visit one rebuild the others learn!
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  19. #44
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    We have a rebuild specialist on the forum shanadoo. I'm pretty sure mine was the last he would complete.

    Hope you on the mend Tony its been a tough year with that influenza going around.
    I'll be at the lung specialist next week.

    AL4 parts all sourced from China OEM parts a couple of make shift tools and patience will do the trick. Just make sure your valve body is up to scratch!
    Dimi

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    Quote Originally Posted by dimistyle View Post
    I've only changed the AL4 in our C5 (Carlo5) about 4 times the first time to get it moving which it lost 1st and 2nd after the first test run, multiple value body solenoids and fluid. Then a rebuilt box another 3 times on the side of the road.

    I had to disconnect the sub frame and drop the box out while using either an engine hoist or the engine bar to hold the engine.
    I had it down pack on the 4 time.

    1 man with patients and all the tools at the ready but usually 1 grumpy man and a whole lot of borrowed tools

    Carlo5 still throws a wobbly but usually due to the selector switch needing replacing as doesn't show D for drive.

    Onwards and up wards. ...

    Sent from my SM-G900I using aussiefrogs mobile app
    Holy cow Dimmy....you would regard yourself as an AL4 expert then?
    Cheers from Tazfrog
    2003 307 XSEA EW10J4 2.0 ltr petrol AL4
    China Blue with Charcoal interior

  21. #46
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    Ahh that would be no, I can successfully remove and install the beast but cracking it open would require a keen mechanical engineers eyes to spot wear otherwise it's replace every seal, clutch, band and piston within. Then you still have the possibility of a worn valve body, plunger thingy, contamination or just a solenoid or 2.
    Am well and truly over them. I have 2 C5s running with AL4s and both shift completely differently. One day I wiĺl play with the slow change but not fussed at the moment.
    Lets see what they say about yours.

    Cheers


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    Well let's hope it's a simple oil change and a couple of pressure solenoids.
    I think our safest move is to offload it as soon as it's running.
    187,000klm is a good run over 15 years ownership I reckon.
    Other than these couple of problems, it's in show room condition.
    I have read up so much about AL4's or ZF4HP20 until I have gone cross eyed!
    I think I could dismantle one with my eye closed
    Cheers from Tazfrog
    2003 307 XSEA EW10J4 2.0 ltr petrol AL4
    China Blue with Charcoal interior

  23. #48
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    From Dimmy.....>>>>> AL4 parts all sourced from China OEM parts a couple of
    make shift tools and patience will do the trick.
    Just make sure your valve body is up to scratch!
    Dimi....>>>>>

    Can you throw a little more light on the Chinese sourced parts?
    Cheers from Tazfrog
    2003 307 XSEA EW10J4 2.0 ltr petrol AL4
    China Blue with Charcoal interior

  24. #49
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    I can PM you a good supplier I have used several times and others have bought solenoids from.
    I guess the Chinese where manufacturing for the local Peugeot and CitroŽns and had the tooling to make the spare parts as they also make the after market valve body rebuild spares for Sonnex (sp?)
    I had no problems with the quality of any of the ordered items

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  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by dimistyle View Post
    I can PM you a good supplier I have used several times and others have bought solenoids from.
    I guess the Chinese where manufacturing for the local Peugeot and CitroŽns and had the tooling to make the spare parts as they also make the after market valve body rebuild spares for Sonnex (sp?)
    I had no problems with the quality of any of the ordered items

    Sent from my SM-G900I using aussiefrogs mobile app
    Thanks Dimmy...that would be most appreciated
    Many people deride Chinese quality but if Australians realized their quality
    was as good as them we would still have manufacturing in this country!

    My e-mail is:

    [email protected]
    Cheers from Tazfrog
    2003 307 XSEA EW10J4 2.0 ltr petrol AL4
    China Blue with Charcoal interior

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