203 u8 diff befo
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Thread: 203 u8 diff befo

  1. #1
    Member tok403's Avatar
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    Default 203 u8 diff befo

    Hey guys, help please. How do I remove the crown wheel from out of enclosed diff (workshop manual picture). I cant remove the bolts as they hit on the diff housing before they are removed from crown wheel.
    203 u8 diff befo-14065a31-6316-4eb4-be1d-8f096a26e8ba.jpg203 u8 diff befo-40e6f80b-219a-48ef-8a57-cca9e465ded8.jpg

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    NOW: 1960 403 Sedan 1953 203 Ute
    Previous Peugeot 1 203 6+ 403 7+ 404. 4 504 4 505. 1 205
    Renault. 3. 12ís. 2. 16ís 1. 25wagon. 1. Floride
    Citroen 1gs

  2. #2
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    Onceyou pull the axles ut the diff centre should lift out of thr husing.

  3. #3
    Member tok403's Avatar
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    Mate the diff is completely out the axles are on the ground so to speak, diff is just the housing.
    NOW: 1960 403 Sedan 1953 203 Ute
    Previous Peugeot 1 203 6+ 403 7+ 404. 4 504 4 505. 1 205
    Renault. 3. 12ís. 2. 16ís 1. 25wagon. 1. Floride
    Citroen 1gs

  4. #4
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    The axle mounts in the diff are disconnected from the crown wheel but bolts hinder it coming out
    NOW: 1960 403 Sedan 1953 203 Ute
    Previous Peugeot 1 203 6+ 403 7+ 404. 4 504 4 505. 1 205
    Renault. 3. 12ís. 2. 16ís 1. 25wagon. 1. Floride
    Citroen 1gs

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    Fellow Frogger! Roland's Avatar
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    Can you post a few more pictures to help our understanding?

    If you have the axles completely out and disconnected from diff and the axle casings completely disconnected from the diff housing then the diff should just lift out of the casing.
    Only then you can disassemble the crown wheel etc.

    The only thing I can think of that is holding the diff itself in the casing would be the tapered roller bearings in which the diff is mounted at the sides of the diff casing. They should be able to be withdrawn from the central housing once the axle casings have been removed.

    Cheers
    Roland

    Last edited by Roland; 31st December 2017 at 04:26 AM.
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    I just had a look at the factory workshop manual and cannot find anything there about how you extract the wheel from the housing and although I have been working on pugs for about 50 years I have never pulledone of those diffs down.
    I am assuming from your photo that you have managed to remove the bearings that should allow you to lift the wheel up enough to extract the bolts.

  7. #7
    Member tok403's Avatar
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    Ian and Rolland thank you. Here are some more pics to help with my quandary.
    1. There are no axle casings on the side just bearings. 203 u8 diff befo-9d3cce46-c38e-4ea3-bba6-64f8f64a7785.jpg
    2. Bearing not completely removed as I can’t get to them until removed and hence bolts won’t come out. The planetary gears are attached to this section. 203 u8 diff befo-903f1dae-666b-4b06-b650-bbfc4a21c3b8.jpg 203 u8 diff befo-b125d2f8-b4c2-4312-8973-51e9ae24719e.jpg
    Short of cutting and replacing bolts I don’t know.
    NOW: 1960 403 Sedan 1953 203 Ute
    Previous Peugeot 1 203 6+ 403 7+ 404. 4 504 4 505. 1 205
    Renault. 3. 12ís. 2. 16ís 1. 25wagon. 1. Floride
    Citroen 1gs

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    Interesting that the workshop manual does not show how to remove the bearings - only how to replace them. I think this is probably because the latter process is critical to centralization of the worm wheel. Given that they are roller bearings the first task should be to remove the outer race. This should allow the worm wheel/diff assembly to be turned a little sideways and removed with the inner races in place. I'd try to drift out the outer races from the inside with a suitable length of brass and a big hammer. A few exploratory taps around the periphery of the race (as far as you can reach) may prove or disprove this theory. Best of luck.

    BTW, I see you've found that the ute uses a 27 tooth worm wheel. If, as indicated, you intend using a 403 motor, can I suggest raising the gearing a bit with a wagon/panel van worm wheel which has 25 teeth. This will give you 16.8 mph per thousand revs.
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  9. #9
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    I don't know much about these diffs, but here's my two cents worth :

    You may be able to remove the roller part of the bearing with a slide hammer.....or at least, as Commrciale says, tap it exploratorially. Be very gentle and careful here as the bearing can be damaged easily this way.

    Then the other race can be removed with the slide hammer, if it still impedes removal of the innards. Just ensure that you have a good sharp right angle on the end bit of the slide hammer, in order to catch the small edge of the race if / where it sticks out slightly.

    Don't have a slide hammer ? You might be able to borrow or even make a basic one.
    Last edited by Beano; 31st December 2017 at 01:08 PM.
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  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger! Roland's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beano View Post
    . . . the other race can be removed with the slide hammer,. . . Just ensure that you have a good sharp right angle on the end bit of the slide hammer, in order to catch the small edge of the race if / where it sticks out slightly. . . . .
    I agree with Beano.
    I think that's the way to go - remove the outer races and that will give you enough room to lift the center out (once you have lightly done the bolts up again!)

    If you think about how it was all assembled, then you would reasonably expect that the outer races would have been put in last as they would have to be adjusted (shimmed) to get the diff centre aligned correctly with the pinion.

    So logically outer shells have to come out first.

    The only slide hammer I have found is from SCA.

    ToolPro Slide Hammer - 12 Piece - Supercheap Auto

    Not terribly cheap but as long as its got a good 90 edge to hook around the outer shell should work.

    Another way would be to apply some pressure to the diff centre from one side and push the shell on the other side out. Done carefully should not damage the shell being pushed out. A huge vice or hydraulic ram might work. Even a couple of very decent sized "G" clamps!

    I would't be tempted to hit it because that will damage the shell and rollers on the other side.

    Of course, if you can de-grease the whole structure first then some heat applied to the casing around the shell(s) will help to free them up.

    Hope all that's helpfull

    Cheers
    Roland



    PS. I see from picture #2, that you have one shell almost out - keep going, get the other one out and you should be on a winner!
    Last edited by Roland; 31st December 2017 at 02:08 PM.
    Land Rover Discovery 4
    406 Coupe D9 - Manual (2002)
    406 SV Sedan D8 - Manual (1998)
    307 Hdi Estate - Auto - (2007)
    307 Hdi Sedan - Auto - (2007)
    505GR Estate - Personal Import from UK 1971cc Manual (March 1986)
    405 Mi16x4 (all the parts ready to install into the LeMans body)

  11. #11
    Member tok403's Avatar
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    Thanks guys for all your advice I appreciate it heaps. I could not get the bearing out either by drifting or slide hammer (using the one I made as an apprentice some 35 years ago) the one I half got out was butchered to get the rollers out. I could of waited till Tuesday and gone to very helpful bearing place, but I suffer greatly from “Tok’s Time” I don’t even have replacement crown wheel yet but I had to get that one out and I had to get it out today. I cut two bolts and that gave me enough movement to pull the rest out. It’s out now. Can you turn the crown wheel 180 degrees pitting is only on one side. Any one have a crown wheel or diff. Thanks again.
    NOW: 1960 403 Sedan 1953 203 Ute
    Previous Peugeot 1 203 6+ 403 7+ 404. 4 504 4 505. 1 205
    Renault. 3. 12ís. 2. 16ís 1. 25wagon. 1. Floride
    Citroen 1gs

  12. #12
    Fellow Frogger! Dano's Avatar
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    You could explore the option of a complete 403 wagon/ute rear axle?
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  13. #13
    Member tok403's Avatar
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    Yep you got one lol
    NOW: 1960 403 Sedan 1953 203 Ute
    Previous Peugeot 1 203 6+ 403 7+ 404. 4 504 4 505. 1 205
    Renault. 3. 12ís. 2. 16ís 1. 25wagon. 1. Floride
    Citroen 1gs

  14. #14
    Fellow Frogger! Roland's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tok403 View Post
    . . . Can you turn the crown wheel 180 degrees pitting is only on one side. . . .
    Yes you can but the result will be a lot of noise on overrun (ie when slowing down)

    However - that crown wheel is so badly worn it's not worth the trouble.

    You'd have to reverse it and then set it up properly so it's aligned with the pinion properly.
    (Quite a skilled job)

    You can have the surface of the teeth welded up - a very skilled TIG welder would need to do that work and then you would have to have it machined before the re-assembly and set up.
    (Very expensive course to take)

    All told, I would go with what Dano suggests and source a 403 rear axle (in good condition) and graft that into position.

    Having just read your restoration thread, I suggest a complete 403 engine/gearbox/back-axle is probably the way to go.


    Cheers

    Roland
    Last edited by Roland; 1st January 2018 at 03:47 AM.
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    Land Rover Discovery 4
    406 Coupe D9 - Manual (2002)
    406 SV Sedan D8 - Manual (1998)
    307 Hdi Estate - Auto - (2007)
    307 Hdi Sedan - Auto - (2007)
    505GR Estate - Personal Import from UK 1971cc Manual (March 1986)
    405 Mi16x4 (all the parts ready to install into the LeMans body)

  15. #15
    Member tok403's Avatar
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    Thanks Roland. On wards we go... know of any around.
    NOW: 1960 403 Sedan 1953 203 Ute
    Previous Peugeot 1 203 6+ 403 7+ 404. 4 504 4 505. 1 205
    Renault. 3. 12ís. 2. 16ís 1. 25wagon. 1. Floride
    Citroen 1gs

  16. #16
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    That diff looks perfectly OK you won't find one better than that. Fit a new front seal and O-ring, check out the planetary gears then refit.
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  17. #17
    Member tok403's Avatar
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    Thanks graham I was thinking as much
    NOW: 1960 403 Sedan 1953 203 Ute
    Previous Peugeot 1 203 6+ 403 7+ 404. 4 504 4 505. 1 205
    Renault. 3. 12ís. 2. 16ís 1. 25wagon. 1. Floride
    Citroen 1gs

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