Lock/immo problems after timing belt replacement 206 (NFU/TU5JP4 engine)
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Thread: Lock/immo problems after timing belt replacement 206 (NFU/TU5JP4 engine)

  1. #1
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    Default Lock/immo problems after timing belt replacement 206 (NFU/TU5JP4 engine) [SOLVED]

    <SOLVED>
    And the lesson learned today is: If you change the plastic case on the key, you absolutely definitely need to move the transponder chip from the old case to the new case. It will never ever noway be enough to move only the circuit bord to the new case.



    </SOLVED>

    Hi,

    I ran into some trouble after replacing the timing belt on my 206 MY2005. When I should start the car after the work was done a nice "immobiliser fault" lit up on the info panel. The remote lock/unlock was still working though, maybe it's not the same system..

    I hooked up with PP2000 to see if any dtc's was present, couldn't find any related to immo.

    Then I thought I should do a key reprogramming and of course I don't have the pin code :-(

    After this I got an ugly "Economy mode active" when I tried to start the car.

    So, I connected my KESS V2 to read out the ECU software and send it to the chaps at mhhauto.com to get the pin code extracted.

    Of course, to make my day even worse, my KESS tool wasn't able to read anything, I got both IO and communication errors. It also said "Unable to wake up ECU".

    F**k I thought and locked the car with the remote and spent some time thinking about blowing up the car.

    However, I got my mood back and decided to make another try with my KESS since it sometimes can be a little fussy from time to time. Now, the remote unlock doesn't work .

    I then put the key in the door lock and it's not possible to turn the in any direction, it's jammed. I sprayed at lot of WD40 in to the lock cylinder and waited. Of course, it's still impossible to turn the key around. I've tried the lock on the passenger door and there the key wont even slide in.

    So, my question now is, which explosives do you recommend for my car? The way it's behaving I think I might have to nuke it to get rid of it.

    Enough of jokes now.

    What can cause the immo to engage after a timing belt replacement?
    I did disconnect the battery during the work, could that make the ECU loose the key pairing?

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    How can I open the locked car when door lock cylinders wont work? Should I look for a car thief and ask for a break-in? Or is there some other magic way to get it open?

    //Thomas
    Last edited by northface; 3rd January 2018 at 02:18 AM.

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    "Economy mode active" is an indication of low battery voltage. Almost any error is possible if the battery voltage gets low enough. I'd suggest checking the battery charge and the condition of the terminals. Could be as simple as that.

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    As well as the above, another cause of endless insanity is failing to let the computer "go to sleep", ie save its state, when disconnecting a battery. It needs time to shut down various processes before the power cuts. The risk is a scrambled set of procedures. Reconnecting takes a short time too.

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    I'd recommend paying cash for a butane camping stove at big w or Kmart. Get it going and leave it under the fuel tank.

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    Heck of a long walk for a stove..........
    Hatstand40 likes this.

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    If you can get underneath and open the bonnet with very long arms or no.8 wire would be my only suggestion. Then once open disconnect the battery get it tested and charged and then start again. Car will go into economy mode after 20 - 30 mins to save the battery. Non turning locks sounds like ignition barrel may have previously been changed but door locks haven't been. Im not familiar with the 206 so no idea how else to break in?

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    Got the bonnet open, battery replaced but the remote wont work and the lockcylinders are impossible to turn around. I think I have to do a break in. So, the best way to break into a 206 is?

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    1000+ Posts driven's Avatar
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    Call the RACV?

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    OR

    Got a wire coat hanger.. Take the rubber door strip off, drop the coathanger down and pull up

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    Quote Originally Posted by northface View Post
    Got the bonnet open, battery replaced but the remote wont work and the lockcylinders are impossible to turn around. I think I have to do a break in. So, the best way to break into a 206 is?
    Try some spray lube into the lock cylinder and gently work the key L &R , little bit at time , keep applying lubricant.

    Cylinders have a habit of seizing up if not used regularly.

    This procedure has always worked for me.

    EDIT: Powder graphite is better than spray, if you are a purist or a locksmith.
    dimistyle likes this.
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    Agree on the graphite and a locksmith. The remote will start working when you eventually start the car the the BSI re-syncs remote.
    Good luck

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    Back to the immobiliser. On a 206 you would have had to remove the engine ecu or at least move it out of the way. Is it still plugged in securely with no bent pins in the plugs?

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    Quote Originally Posted by cav91 View Post
    Back to the immobiliser. On a 206 you would have had to remove the engine ecu or at least move it out of the way. Is it still plugged in securely with no bent pins in the plugs?

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    It's still attached with no bent pins. Why do I have to take it out?

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    It makes the job of removing the engine mount easier. I've always removed the one bolt holding it in to create more access

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    Quote Originally Posted by cav91 View Post
    It makes the job of removing the engine mount easier. I've always removed the one bolt holding it in to create more access

    Sent from my SM-G930F using aussiefrogs mobile app
    Ok. Well I had to move the ecu during timing belt job. Do you think I messed something up while doing that?

    However, I found a car theif in myself and managed to get the door open. I've paired the key with PP2000 and the remote locking is working again. But, the car won't start. The battery has 12.78 Volt on it and is fresh. The engine cranks when I turn the key but it just won't start. "Economy mode active" the display says.

    I've checked for fault codes but nothing. I've tried resetting the BSI (BSI Reboot Process for Peugeot - United Kingdom | BBA Reman) and of course that didn't work.

    Any ideas?

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    Is it possible you messed up the timing belt setting? If you got a cam out by a tooth or two?

    Check if you have spark and petrol, if so suspect your belt setting.

    Otherwise something you moved during the job, some part of the wiring loom could have a fault inside. We had a 306 with such a fault that when wiggled could cut out the engine. Had to actually open the loom to find an old soldered repair that had failed. It was down behind the battery and the movement of the engine had cracked the solder.

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    Just checking its on economy mode as you have had the ignition on for 30mins but not started, its a battery saver which switches off all accessories.
    If you disconnect the battery again and leave for 15mins and reconnect it should be all systems go. Check all electrical systems work, and do a global scan.

    Report back any error codes.

    Could still be immobilizer, fuel or BSI???


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    I've used all locking tools during timing belt replacement, checked and rechecked timing adjustment.

    I've also replaced the starter engine.

    I've removed the battery for at least 15 minutes. Put it back and still "economy mode active".

    Did a full pp2000-scan and found the following errors:
    - Multifunctional display: Intermittent fault. No +ve permanent on the display
    - Instrument panel: Remote intermittent falut. Coolant temperature information. Incorrect value recieved.
    - Instrument panel: Remote intermittent falut. Vehicle speed information. Incorrect value recieved.

    Maybe need to check wiring if something broke during timingbelt replacement. Does anyone now where I can find electric diagrams for my car?

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    Revue Technique Auto, French, has the wiring diagrams in the 206 book. It can be got online. They go on for pages, by division and sometimes by engine..

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    Is it possible you've broken/adjusted the cam sensor? I drove myself crazy doing all of the things you did and it turned out the cam sensor had been put back in too close to the sprocket and the first turnings of the engine had broken the end off it.

    ??? Just a thought. Erik

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    Quote Originally Posted by Erikbm View Post
    Is it possible you've broken/adjusted the cam sensor? I drove myself crazy doing all of the things you did and it turned out the cam sensor had been put back in too close to the sprocket and the first turnings of the engine had broken the end off it.

    ??? Just a thought. Erik
    I will check that, but shouldn't there be a fault code if something was wrong with the sensor?

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    These messages are all consistent with a low battery voltage - do you have another battery you can try? Have you cleaned the leads and terminals? I had all of these errors present after an alternator failure on my 206GTI recently. After the replacement, and a battery charge they all cleared without issue.

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    Quote Originally Posted by KimHowe View Post
    These messages are all consistent with a low battery voltage - do you have another battery you can try? Have you cleaned the leads and terminals? I had all of these errors present after an alternator failure on my 206GTI recently. After the replacement, and a battery charge they all cleared without issue.
    I will try yet another battery. However, while diving in beneath the bonnet today I found a loose connector and couldn't find where to put it. It's a white one with two yellow and one white cable coming out from the loom beneath the intake manifold, see attached image. Where should it connect?

    Lock/immo problems after timing belt replacement 206 (NFU/TU5JP4 engine)-dsc_0779.jpgLock/immo problems after timing belt replacement 206 (NFU/TU5JP4 engine)-dsc_0780.jpg

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