Help needed bleeding a 206 Gti 180 clutch
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  1. #1
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    Default Help needed bleeding a 206 Gti 180 clutch

    Hello,
    I have finished my rear main seal replacement and upon getting into the car, I found that my clutch pedal is soft and goes to the floor and I can not engage gear.
    I had to replace a leaking clutch slave which I believe may let some air into the lines.
    Does anyone have a procedure that doesn't require specialist tools. I looked at the the one on the Peugeot206uk site and I just don't have the tools and really don't really understand that process.
    I'm on farm and an hours away from a major town.
    I can't drive the car either

    Any help is greatly appreciated - I'm so close to finishing this car.......... And I can't do it with help.
    Even if it's enough for me to drive it to the mechanic as a last resort. But I would really really love to finish it at home

    Thanks

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  2. #2
    Fellow Frogger! driven's Avatar
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    Default

    I only know how to bleed a regular clutch, i don't know anything specific to the 180.

    Open bleeder, push pedal down, close bleeder, pull pedal up. Repeat.

    Might be worth leaving the bleeder open for a bit see if gravity can do its thing 1st.

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
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    Yes....try doing it that way. Best with 2 people, but it can be done with one person if you have a stick to jam between the seat and clutch pedal to keep it down..

    If that does not work, the 206 may be similar to a 504 clutch. And they are a little different.

    Here is a copy and paste from a post I made elsewhere recently, about 504 clutch bleeding :



    Bleeding the clutch system is not done the same as bleeding the brakes. People (even garage mechanics) sometimes go crazy because they try this with 504s and 505s and cannot bleed them properly. They are different from Holdens !

    1) Arrange the hoses connecting the master cylinder and slave cylinder (there should be a metal hose joined to a rubber one) so that they don't have too many twists and turns in them. You want the pipe / hose to look like it goes vertically. Not like a roller coaster, which will stop air bubbles from going upwards.
    Tap them repeatedly with a spanner to get any air bubbles inside to join together and rise to the top. Leave it a minute, then press the pedal a few times.

    Leave 5 minutes (for air bubbles tor rise through the slightly thick hydraulic fluid ), then repeat this process.

    OR......

    2) Just open the bleeder nipple on the slave cylinder and leave it for a while. Fluid will drip out. Then try # 1.

    OR

    3) Get a plastic pipe and join the left-hand front brake bleeder nipple to the clutch slave cylinder nipple. You may have to use a small piece of wire wrapped around each one to prevent pressure from blowing the pipe off.

    Open both nipples and pump the brake pedal GENTLY a few times. This way you are REVERSE bleeding the clutch.
    Last edited by Beano; 21st October 2017 at 06:13 PM.

  4. #4
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    Default

    Thank you for the replies.
    So the diagram I found with all different tubes isn't necessary? I can bleed it from the brakes caliper bleed valve is that because they share the same master cylinder? I was looking for a valve specific for the clutch itself.....

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  5. #5
    sans witticism SLC206's Avatar
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    Hi cappakazi,

    I've attached a link to my copy of an official version here. Other than a clear plastic tube and a container to put it in, it doesn't seem to employ any specialist tools.

    It would be hard to do by yourself though (without the broom/stick technique).

    206 clutch bleeding
    Regards,

    Simon

    2014 208 GTi 2011 DS3 DSport
    ----
    2007 207 GTi 2004 206 GTi180 2000 206 GTi 1995 306 XT

    www.peugeotclub.asn.au

  6. #6
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    Thanks everyone I got it done the no fluid coming out during the bleed threw me but it worked.

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  7. #7
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    Wow that's clever to reverse bleed it.
    I put another cap on the master cylinder wit a brass tube fitting thru and put a bicycle pump on to push fluid to clutch cyl.
    And I put a short piece of wood to push the cluth lever in so the slave piston was pushed in

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  8. #8
    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
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    I'd forgotten about that way. I did that once with the brakes.

    If you can find a cap that fits snugly and seals well, what you can do is drill a hole in it and take it down to the local tyre place. They have something like a pop rivet gun with which they usually fit tubeless valves onto rims. They did mine for the cost of the valve.

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