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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! blahblah's Avatar
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    Default My 306

    I thought I'd start a thread where I could ramble on about what I've done with my 306 - which may be of help/interest to others with 306s.

    Here's a pic of it - a 2000 306 XSi.

    My 306-img_2594.jpg

    I've fitted a set of s/h Bilstein B8s. At the front they're fitted with Eibach springs - thicker coils and about 0.5" lower. I've replaced the front control arm bushes with these:

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    My 306-img_2572.jpg

    These are pretty straightforward to fit but need a matching larger bolt (M10) instead of the M8 ( I think)

    My 306-img_2574.jpg

    Meyle HD bushes - 4 year warranty apparently.


    Having the Bilsteins B8s fitted makes it vastly easier to remove the control arms - the strut/spring assemblies are shorter so the struts aren't in the way as much.




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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    Excellent work. The best thing I've done to my XSi was to fit braided stainless brakes hoses.

    '92 205 Mi16
    '90 Mi16x4

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterT View Post
    Excellent work. The best thing I've done to my XSi was to fit braided stainless brakes hoses.
    Thanks Peter, I'll look into it - I take it the pedal feel improves noticeably?






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    Sure does/
    87 S1 205 GTI / GTI6 powered a project underway
    306 convertible (gti6 candidate)
    307 HDi wagon
    407 HDi wagon

  5. #5
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    I put them on the back of my 309 rally car, The hydraulic handbrake now has a lot less play, unless I simply finally removed the air!.
    I have two fronts available if anyone is interested, bought as a complete kit, couldn't use them as the front struts have a large amount of droop and I had to get special hoses made.

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! blahblah's Avatar
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    Default My 306

    Sounds good! I'll add braided brake lines to the list of bits to order.

    I bought a '98 XSi as a parts car - came across it by chance! It has about 120k km on it. It's had a front end bingle that took out the drivers headlight and front bumper, bonnet.

    My 306-img_2615.jpg

    My 306-img_2619.jpg

    The alloys are, bar one rim, free from curb rash.

    The radiator fans were tired so I've swapped the radiator fan assembly from the spares car as they're almost perfect.
    Takes a fair bit of disassembly to get them out...note the repair to the left fan.

    My 306-img_2602.jpg

    My 306-img_2603.jpg

    Amazing what came out of the radiator/condenser when I used the air line to clean it - this is only part of it!

    My 306-img_2611.jpg

    Remove the grill (1 M6 bolt and 4 plastic rivetey things - technical description ;-) then the headlights (3 torx screws and 3 wiring plugs each).

    The front bumper is held on by 3 M6 bolts across the front underside and 4 M6 nuts ( 2 each side). There are 4 torx self tappers holding plastic covers in place each side too. That's about it!

    My bumper has 2 out of the 3 plastic tabs (front underside) broken off from parking altercations with curbs. I'll be repairing these a bit later on.

    The black metal top crossmember is held on with 2 M8 bolts and 2 M8 nuts.

    Tool list - 10mm, 13mm sockets 5-6" extension (deep well sockets handy), torx set, Opinel No. 8 knife for carefully prying out grill rivetey things, small hands with strong, long and dexterous fingers to get into small spaces - I don't have these either...




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    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Thanks for the education - I now know what an Opinel knife is. Interesting.

    I'd vouch for the benefits of braided stainless hoses too.

    Cheers
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger! blahblah's Avatar
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    Default My 306

    It makes sense to use a French knife while working on a French car :-)

    The metal sleeve near the pivot point rotates to lock the blade open. The end of the handle is used to tap on a hard surface so the blade pivots out sufficiently to open the knife.

    The blade point is useful for releasing cable tie latches rather than cutting the tie.



    If you haven't guessed, I'm a fan :-) They come in a range of different sizes, steels and woods for handles. This is a No. 9 a Father's Day present:



    The French like their knives! The regional variations are fascinating. I like to wear anoraks, and record train engine numbers ;-)


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    Last edited by blahblah; 10th September 2017 at 02:07 PM.

  9. #9
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Very enjoyable! Yes, the French do appreciate their knifes as you say. I have been coveting one of these for years, but didn't know "Opinel". I think I might need to get myself a Father's Day present now. Many thanks for the information. Now, beech, oak, ebony or horn handle....... ?

    The CX is going well by the way, and I've finally found a really frustrating hydraulic leak that I should have found quickly but didn't. It was intermittent and came from the shortest and easiest of the octopus lines. It was available overnight from Melbourne (try THAT with a Xantia) and clearly the new ones are reinforced where the old ones used to split. It's running a 123 distributor and electric fuel pump (good for its somewhat intermittent use), both of which I'm very pleased with.

    Re anoraks, I'm not saying a word..... Never should a kettle call a pot black.

    Cheers
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    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger! blahblah's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    Very enjoyable! Yes, the French do appreciate their knifes as you say. I have been coveting one of these for years, but didn't know "Opinel". I think I might need to get myself a Father's Day present now. Many thanks for the information. Now, beech, oak, ebony or horn handle....... ?

    The CX is going well by the way, and I've finally found a really frustrating hydraulic leak that I should have found quickly but didn't. It was intermittent and came from the shortest and easiest of the octopus lines. It was available overnight from Melbourne (try THAT with a Xantia) and clearly the new ones are reinforced where the old ones used to split. It's running a 123 distributor and electric fuel pump (good for its somewhat intermittent use), both of which I'm very pleased with.

    Re anoraks, I'm not saying a word..... Never should a kettle call a pot black.

    Cheers
    Don't forget olive wood! Glad the CX is running well - if you ever grow weary of it let me know and I'll take it off your hands - it sounds like you've got it fully sorted ;-)

    This came up on Facebook:

    https://www.facebook.com/groups/2896...7936413735966/

    Hopefully the link works - CX vs Audi vs Fiat vs Merc 190


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  11. #11
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    I think it is pretty much sorted. Mostly it always was, but they are quite a car to learn your way into. No-one will ever do anything like that again. No wonder they were expensive new.

    Link worked thanks. Lovely - well ahead of the competition in some ways, weren't they. I'll remember that offer if we grow weary or need to downsize!

    I've gone for the carbon steel/beech combination! Loved the olive option though, but it seemed to come with stainless steel only.

    Enjoy your 306 too. They are very good indeed. Ours is 22 years old now and going well. Uses a bit of oil - valve guide seals but otherwise 100%.

    Cheers
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

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    Not a real Fiat used for the testing some combo Lancia / Saab / Alfa chassis called a Croma, but boy the Germans didn't perform very well at all.

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    I'm looking at replacing the catalytic converter, had this new converter knocking around for a while. OK years...

    A good weight saving and maybe a little more pep.


    My 306-img_2625.jpg

    My 306-img_2626.jpg




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    Iíve been tinkering with the gearshift to remove some of the play. While the linkages donít help when theyíre tired, the main issue has been the 90 degree crank with the Ďballí at the end:


    The ball wears where it sits in this:



    Rather than spend $90-100 on a replacement I thought Iíd try shimming the tube instead. I recommend a SPC peach tin ;-) I made this to fit in the tube:



    Which fits like this:



    Its pushed in flush with the edge and when the ball is fitted no more play!

    Along with a set of pug1off linkages and bronze bushes in the 90 degree crank instead of the worn plastic ones (had a pair of new ones floating around) I think the shift action is as good as I can get it...

    Beats thinking about the leaking rear main seal and replacing the heater matrix!!




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    Default Starter solenoid issues and why checking the last thing you changed is worthwhile...

    The starter solenoid has been sticking of late (OK, a couple of months...) - normally a tap with a piece of broom handle does the trick.

    When this issue started, I noted the voltage at the solenoid was 10v or so.

    To resolve this I fitted a relay with a 15A fuse to supply the solenoid direct from the engine bay fusebox. Why a fuse? I was nervous about uncontrolled current to the solenoid. This works well.

    Several weeks later...
    So when tapping the solenoid stopped working, I thought the starter was properly stuffed. It is and I'll buy a new one at some point...

    I had the thought of checking the 15A fuse and it had blown. Symptoms are pretty well identical to a stuck solenoid. Given the solenoid resistance is about 0.9 ohms (on a warm day) this would suggest that current draw is around 13.3A assuming 12v or exactly 15A assuming 13.5v. I've put in a 20A fuse and the car is starting again! Probably should have used I=V/R earlier...
    Presumably the original thin, unfused wiring with higher resistance means lower current draw which means the thinner wire is OK...or not?

  16. #16
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Aha. Ohm's Law lives....

    I'm always staggered at the reliable life of starter motors. Our 306 has 22 years on it now. The R8 starter at least 35 years and the 4CV starter was overhauled in the late 1960s.
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnW View Post
    Aha. Ohm's Law lives....

    I'm always staggered at the reliable life of starter motors. Our 306 has 22 years on it now. The R8 starter at least 35 years and the 4CV starter was overhauled in the late 1960s.
    Perhaps I should complain to Peugeot - 17 years is clearly not good enough :-)

    Iíll remove it and have a look at the solenoid - a clean and dismantle may be possible/help.


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    If your parts car is open to offers, I'd probably be interested in the whole ABS system, pump, controller, sensors and cables...
    racing 405
    1:59:09 last time at Phillip Island - less than standard Mi16.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by racing405 View Post
    If your parts car is open to offers, I'd probably be interested in the whole ABS system, pump, controller, sensors and cables...
    Yes happy to assist - just need to ID all the bits... Iíve got to pull the engine and gearbox out so thatíll make it easier:-)


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  20. #20
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    The catalytic converter rattle was getting worse so Iíve taken it off to have a look.

    Hereís a pic of the converter:


    Hereís what it should look like:



    Iím glad I took off the intermediate exhaust pipe/muffler and gave it a rattle: this was jammed in at the rear muffler end:



    I thought it was down on power a bit!

    Iíve fitted a good spare cat for the moment and will have the dodgy one cut out and replaced...



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  21. #21
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Does it have to be SPC? Good approach I reckon. I imagine you could improve it later if you find a really old tin which might be a bit thicker!

    Careful with the firewall spigots when you do that matrix job...
    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  22. #22
    Too many posts! JohnW's Avatar
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    Does it have to be SPC? Good approach I reckon. I imagine you could improve it later if you find a really old tin which might be a bit thicker!

    Careful with the firewall spigots when you do that matrix job...
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    JohnW

    Renault 4CV 1951
    Renault R8 1965
    Renault Scenic 2005 (wife's)
    Renault Scenic 2007 (mine)
    Renault Scenic 2006 (daughter's)
    CitroŽn CX Pallas 1980

    National Co-ordinator, Renault 4CV Register of Australia

  23. #23
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    A couple of updates on the 306...

    I replaced the down pipe / catalytic converter on the weekend - it cost $130 to do supplying my own cat. Wish Iíd had the foresight to ask that he maximise the pipe diameter on the down pipe rather than use the pipe he did:
    My 306-img_2850.jpg

    Replaced the O2 sensor tonight - new Bosch one:
    Box with part number:
    My 306-img_2860.jpg

    What the connector looks like:
    My 306-img_2862.jpg

    Havenít tested properly post O2 sensor but appears a bit more torquey with better pickup. Has to be a 5-10kg weight saving.

  24. #24
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    Having driven the car for a while now, I have to say the O2 sensor is the best bang for buck improvement to the car - vastly nicer to drive and picks up better on part throttle...

    The new catalytic converter will have helped too.

    Other tweaks include fitting a pair of 10cm 100w driving lights where the fog lamps were (donít get a lot of fog in Perth) but I want good lights in the hills. The driving lights are mounted upside down onto the bumper - sorry no pics when I did it but will no doubt have the bumper off at some stage so will take some then.



    While they need a little adjustment (up a bit), they work a treat.

    Low beam:


    High beam:


    High beam plus driving lights:


    Rather than running a separate switch and drill holes, Iíve wired them in using the existing front fog lamp switch on the indicator stalk - they only come on with high beam when switched on plus I get a dash light telling me theyíre on.

    I now have 3 extra relays near the battery; from the right, starter solenoid, fog lamp switch and driving lights power. Hella do interlocking relay mounts which neatens things up a bit. Iíll draw up the wiring diagram a bit later on.



    Finally, I had a good set of 5 Ďlaserí (?) alloys that Iíve cleaned up and stripped the tyres off. I was going to paint them but thought Iíd weigh them first.

    15Ē lasers - 10.1kg each!!


    15Ē Mi16 alloys - 8.6kg each - better!


    I think the cyclones on the car will be in between weight-wise.

    So, while a set of 10mm hub centric spacers and bolts will cost a bit to fit them to the 306, theyíll still be about 1.2kg lighter each.

    Yes, Iíd love to get a set of C5 steelies but they seem to be like Unicorns around here!

    Next up is fitting a gti6 inlet/exhaust manifold - having a spare engine to play with is helping.

    A little difference in throttle body size:



    Main issue is the oil breather and air filter set up - looking to fit a catch can/breather and a K&N pod filter. The latter is not ideal but I donít have a stock gti6 air filter assy. The pod filter needs to dodge the top radiator hose.
    Good news is the xu10j4r injectors and fuel rail fit which simplifies things (how to on a UK site said the gti6 fuel rail was required):


    Wiring under the manifold needs rearranging to have sufficient length to run to the different sensor locations - only one sensor needs to be swapped too.

    Xu10j4r map sensor in place.


    Inlet manifold temporarily fitted with macho K&N thatís too big for the space available - (engine removed from car for clarity;-):










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  25. #25
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    Hadn't seen this thread before, but nice car! I've always said I really love the 306. And I have three Opinel knives...masterpieces of simple design and lovely materials.

    Your thread reminded me too, the 405 has a new set of Pug OEM gear linkages too (he knows what I mean).
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