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Thread: 307 Hdi timing belt

  1. #26
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    They are .pdf files wrapped in a zip. You'll have to extract them from the download. Citroen used to and still makes this information public and free while Peugeot doesn't. Unfortunately for later cars they have stopped the practice.

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  2. #27
    Member Hugh Venables's Avatar
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    Hi Tonch504, you may have done this by now but if you haven't there are some other posts on this topic on this site if you search a bit. The cam belt is only due every 180,000 km which seems extreme but several knowledgeable members confirmed it. I have a bit of 8 m.m. rod about half a metre long bent to about 45° which I can get into the hole in the block through to the flywheel with out removing the starter. The hole in the block is very difficult to find. You will need to lock the flywheel somehow, I cut a few reverse ring gear teeth into a piece of 3 m.m. plate which I bolted to the block. I also blocked the cam sprocket with a short piece of plate from one tooth to something nearby. The crank sprocket keyway is much wider than the key. The keyway won't necessarily be centred over the key, when you have the 8 m.m. rods through the flywheel and the cam sprocket and set the auto belt tensioner the cam timing is set and you then nip up the crank and cam bolts. I wouldn't leave the locating pins in the flywheel or cam sprocket for final tightening of those bolts. Both are specified for initial torque and then a number of degrees of rotation. When you have finished tightening them check to see that both the 8 m.m. pins can still be fitted. I did remove the panel in front of the windscreen, access was much improved. The (later) Haynes 307 manual is quite useful. The early one didn't cover this engine.

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hugh Venables View Post
    Hi Tonch504, you may have done this by now but if you haven't there are some other posts on this topic on this site if you search a bit. The cam belt is only due every 180,000 km which seems extreme but several knowledgeable members confirmed it. I have a bit of 8 m.m. rod about half a metre long bent to about 45° which I can get into the hole in the block through to the flywheel with out removing the starter. The hole in the block is very difficult to find. You will need to lock the flywheel somehow, I cut a few reverse ring gear teeth into a piece of 3 m.m. plate which I bolted to the block. I also blocked the cam sprocket with a short piece of plate from one tooth to something nearby. The crank sprocket keyway is much wider than the key. The keyway won't necessarily be centred over the key, when you have the 8 m.m. rods through the flywheel and the cam sprocket and set the auto belt tensioner the cam timing is set and you then nip up the crank and cam bolts. I wouldn't leave the locating pins in the flywheel or cam sprocket for final tightening of those bolts. Both are specified for initial torque and then a number of degrees of rotation. When you have finished tightening them check to see that both the 8 m.m. pins can still be fitted. I did remove the panel in front of the windscreen, access was much improved. The (later) Haynes 307 manual is quite useful. The early one didn't cover this engine.
    Hi Hugh,
    Thanks for your advice and sorry about the late reply. I managed to get as far as attempting to remove the crank pulley nut. But, even with the rattle gun, I simply couldn’t remove it. So, it all went back together and the vehicle went to the mechanic. Cost a bit but I know it’s done correctly.

  4. #29
    1000+ Posts luthier's Avatar
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    Well I won't tell you how to undo the crank nut then.
    It might start another brawl.

    O and if I tried to follow all the procedures described above I'd never do a timing belt but I've done heaps no probs.

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hugh Venables View Post
    Hi Tonch504, you may have done this by now but if you haven't there are some other posts on this topic on this site if you search a bit. The cam belt is only due every 180,000 km which seems extreme but several knowledgeable members confirmed it. I have a bit of 8 m.m. rod about half a metre long bent to about 45° which I can get into the hole in the block through to the flywheel with out removing the starter. The hole in the block is very difficult to find. You will need to lock the flywheel somehow, I cut a few reverse ring gear teeth into a piece of 3 m.m. plate which I bolted to the block. I also blocked the cam sprocket with a short piece of plate from one tooth to something nearby. The crank sprocket keyway is much wider than the key. The keyway won't necessarily be centred over the key, when you have the 8 m.m. rods through the flywheel and the cam sprocket and set the auto belt tensioner the cam timing is set and you then nip up the crank and cam bolts. I wouldn't leave the locating pins in the flywheel or cam sprocket for final tightening of those bolts. Both are specified for initial torque and then a number of degrees of rotation. When you have finished tightening them check to see that both the 8 m.m. pins can still be fitted. I did remove the panel in front of the windscreen, access was much improved. The (later) Haynes 307 manual is quite useful. The early one didn't cover this engine.
    MY 308 with the RHR engine is up to 151K

    A dealership I trust says this is now 120K (but say has varied over the years), my NZ handbook says the same i.e. 120K the UK warranty guide says 160K. As a result I intend to get mine done

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