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  1. #26
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    Good work!

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    However, loss of compression that was solved by a rocker adjustment probably means some pretty serious valve seat recession has been happening.
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

    1956 Peugeot 403 - 'Francois' - resto project

    1969 Peugeot 504 - 'Pascal' - daily driver project

    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility - 'Brutus' - resto project

    1978 Peugeot 604 - as yet unnamed - V6 on straight LPG

    1999 Peugeot 406 Coupé - 'Chloe' - 5 speed manual

    2011 Peugeot 3008 XTE HDi - 'Zoe' - hatchback on steroids

    2014 Peugeot RCZ - 'Remy'

    1999 Range Rover 4.6 HSE - 'Grover' - tow car

  2. #27
    Fellow Frogger! Codman's Avatar
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    This head was one of Grahams, not sure quite what it was set up on, I've now got good compression across all 4 running exceptionally well given the carbs just at base settings

    Sent from my HUAWEI RIO-L02 using Tapatalk
    Current -
    65' 404 Sedan,
    88' 205 GTI/16V
    92' 505 Custom Turbo Wagon
    92' 205 SI
    88' 505 GTI Wagon - PARTING OUT PM ME


    Gone -
    04' 206 RC (GTI180)
    2 X 405 STI,
    405 MI16
    98' 406 Coupe
    406 2l
    91' 205 SI
    306 Style,
    3 X 306 GTI6

  3. #28
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    Yes, you do need to adjust the rockers when putting a different head on an engine, not like an OHC engine. I think that was the 3 bearing engine head that I was keeping for the inlet valves but decided I would never use them (in a 403). You will get valve seat recession eventually unless you use valve saver additive.

  4. #29
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Codman View Post
    This head was one of Grahams, not sure quite what it was set up on, I've now got good compression across all 4 running exceptionally well given the carbs just at base settings

    Sent from my HUAWEI RIO-L02 using Tapatalk
    Sorry Cal, please ignore my comment - I didn't realise that the head had been replaced. As Graham said, it is perfectly normal for a replacement head on a pushrod engine to require adjustment of the tappets.

    If the head was original and hadn't been removed, my comment would apply.
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

    1956 Peugeot 403 - 'Francois' - resto project

    1969 Peugeot 504 - 'Pascal' - daily driver project

    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility - 'Brutus' - resto project

    1978 Peugeot 604 - as yet unnamed - V6 on straight LPG

    1999 Peugeot 406 Coupé - 'Chloe' - 5 speed manual

    2011 Peugeot 3008 XTE HDi - 'Zoe' - hatchback on steroids

    2014 Peugeot RCZ - 'Remy'

    1999 Range Rover 4.6 HSE - 'Grover' - tow car

  5. #30
    Fellow Frogger! Codman's Avatar
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    Now I'm 404 rolling, she's running well, shifting through all gears nicely and able to drive up my driveway, I'v done all fluids, and will attack it with the grease gun this arvo.
    I had one oil cartridge in the glove box, it had been used but was ok and I had nothing else.
    So the next things on the agenda is brakes. I will pull of a wheel and see if the cylinders are as seized as the master was, might be after some brake parts soon.

    Tires! Help! The current shoes are crumbling, scary even on the driveway, who should I speak too? Is it worth changing out the rims etc etc?
    Peter Chisholm likes this.
    Current -
    65' 404 Sedan,
    88' 205 GTI/16V
    92' 505 Custom Turbo Wagon
    92' 205 SI
    88' 505 GTI Wagon - PARTING OUT PM ME


    Gone -
    04' 206 RC (GTI180)
    2 X 405 STI,
    405 MI16
    98' 406 Coupe
    406 2l
    91' 205 SI
    306 Style,
    3 X 306 GTI6

  6. #31
    Fellow Frogger! Codman's Avatar
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    oh and anyone have the heater hoses? i replaced the rad ones but have a decent leak in the through firewall heater hoses

  7. #32
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    I've got a set of Michelins, very old but not cracked and plenty of tread, or you could have the Firestones, unused but also old that are sitting on my 404 at present. Both sets very cheap.

  8. #33
    Fellow Frogger! Codman's Avatar
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    Sent from my HUAWEI RIO-L02 using Tapatalk
    Current -
    65' 404 Sedan,
    88' 205 GTI/16V
    92' 505 Custom Turbo Wagon
    92' 205 SI
    88' 505 GTI Wagon - PARTING OUT PM ME


    Gone -
    04' 206 RC (GTI180)
    2 X 405 STI,
    405 MI16
    98' 406 Coupe
    406 2l
    91' 205 SI
    306 Style,
    3 X 306 GTI6

  9. #34
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    Good work.

    Next time you might consider unbolting the torque converter from the flex plate before lifting the engine, leaving the converter in place in the gearbox.

    This will help to avoid damaging the input shaft seal on the front of the gearbox, and as a bonus, you don't lose any transmission fluid.

    I would strongly recommend replacing that seal while you have it apart now. Pain in the neck to have to pull the motor out again just to replace the seal!
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

    1956 Peugeot 403 - 'Francois' - resto project

    1969 Peugeot 504 - 'Pascal' - daily driver project

    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility - 'Brutus' - resto project

    1978 Peugeot 604 - as yet unnamed - V6 on straight LPG

    1999 Peugeot 406 Coupé - 'Chloe' - 5 speed manual

    2011 Peugeot 3008 XTE HDi - 'Zoe' - hatchback on steroids

    2014 Peugeot RCZ - 'Remy'

    1999 Range Rover 4.6 HSE - 'Grover' - tow car

  10. #35
    Fellow Frogger! Codman's Avatar
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    How in gods name are you supposed to reach the flex plate bolts when its all in place? sockets foul on the sump, and i couldn't get enough contact with an open ender, i couldn't really see how it could be done with out specific tools, i also tried to reach them from the starter motor position but not any better.
    Once the engine mount was off to allow the front cover removal it freed enough space to pull the engine all the way forward so thats the way I went.

    The auto will get serviced and checked whilst its out, seems a small investment seeing as its driven to the moon and about to have nearly twice as much power going through it.


    Quote Originally Posted by Demannu View Post
    Good work.

    Next time you might consider unbolting the torque converter from the flex plate before lifting the engine, leaving the converter in place in the gearbox.

    This will help to avoid damaging the input shaft seal on the front of the gearbox, and as a bonus, you don't lose any transmission fluid.

    I would strongly recommend replacing that seal while you have it apart now. Pain in the neck to have to pull the motor out again just to replace the seal!

  11. #36
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    Default codman's cars : 404 Tyres and wheels

    Dear Cal

    Great progress

    Taking rims out to 6" gives you much better choice of tyres. Decision depends upon how much time you plan on spending on your door handles and how much you value originality.

    Neway in West Heidelberg do a good job. You just need to watch the offsets to ensure that doesn't foul . It costs a bit ( about 150.00/wheel ) but gives you an easier life over the life of the car

    If you do the spare as well you have to modify the drop down type of spare wheel holder so it'll close with the wider wheel. My solution at the moment is to use a skinny spare.

    Best Wishes

    Andrew

    Quote Originally Posted by Codman View Post
    Now I'm 404 rolling, she's running well, shifting through all gears nicely and able to drive up my driveway, I'v done all fluids, and will attack it with the grease gun this arvo.
    I had one oil cartridge in the glove box, it had been used but was ok and I had nothing else.
    So the next things on the agenda is brakes. I will pull of a wheel and see if the cylinders are as seized as the master was, might be after some brake parts soon.

    Tires! Help! The current shoes are crumbling, scary even on the driveway, who should I speak too? Is it worth changing out the rims etc etc?

  12. #37
    cjl
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    Quote Originally Posted by Codman View Post
    How in gods name are you supposed to reach the flex plate bolts when its all in place? sockets foul on the sump, and i couldn't get enough contact with an open ender, i couldn't really see how it could be done with out specific tools, i also tried to reach them from the starter motor position but not any better.
    Once the engine mount was off to allow the front cover removal it freed enough space to pull the engine all the way forward so thats the way I went.

    The auto will get serviced and checked whilst its out, seems a small investment seeing as its driven to the moon and about to have nearly twice as much power going through it.
    It's a little awkward but I use a ring spanner. Just find 1 with the right offset and you will find it possible. You will find it much easier to put the motor back in with the torque converter on the transmission and properly engaged in the oil pump.
    Codman likes this.
    1975 504
    1985 505 STI with V6
    1992 505 wagon

  13. #38
    Fellow Frogger! Codman's Avatar
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    Had all the cars on the go over the weekend, got some brakes in the 404, chucked it up on the hoist for the first time, absolutely thrilled on the condition underneath, NO rust.
    Will hit it with the pressure washer, brush and degreaser during the week and start replacing bushes and go over with the grease gun.
    The steering arm ball joint on the drivers side is wasted, are they still available?

    Current -
    65' 404 Sedan,
    88' 205 GTI/16V
    92' 505 Custom Turbo Wagon
    92' 205 SI
    88' 505 GTI Wagon - PARTING OUT PM ME


    Gone -
    04' 206 RC (GTI180)
    2 X 405 STI,
    405 MI16
    98' 406 Coupe
    406 2l
    91' 205 SI
    306 Style,
    3 X 306 GTI6

  14. #39
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    Try online for the ball joint. Lack of boot would be reason it is stuffed! I have plenty of engine mounts in good condition. Early models are much better for rust than the late ones, one of the reasons I bought my 1966 model.

  15. #40
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    Too easy, will poke around.

    Let me know when you will be at your workshop next and ill pop over for which ever set of tires and try and remember to borrow your key to try!

    Quote Originally Posted by GRAHAM WALLIS View Post
    Try online for the ball joint. Lack of boot would be reason it is stuffed! I have plenty of engine mounts in good condition. Early models are much better for rust than the late ones, one of the reasons I bought my 1966 model.

  16. #41
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    I might have

    Shall have a look - probably have used, may have new

    Andrew

  17. #42
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    I will be there from Wednesday

    Quote Originally Posted by Codman View Post
    Too easy, will poke around.

    Let me know when you will be at your workshop next and ill pop over for which ever set of tires and try and remember to borrow your key to try!

  18. #43
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    Hi Cal

    Enzed have the right diameter and specification in whatever length you need

    They have a shop in Chesterville rd Moorabbin, but I suspect that there may be one closer to you

    Best Wishes

    Andrew

    Quote Originally Posted by Codman View Post
    oh and anyone have the heater hoses? i replaced the rad ones but have a decent leak in the through firewall heater hoses

  19. #44
    Fellow Frogger! Codman's Avatar
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    Post hot water gurney

    Sent from my HUAWEI RIO-L02 using Tapatalk
    DeeCee likes this.
    Current -
    65' 404 Sedan,
    88' 205 GTI/16V
    92' 505 Custom Turbo Wagon
    92' 205 SI
    88' 505 GTI Wagon - PARTING OUT PM ME


    Gone -
    04' 206 RC (GTI180)
    2 X 405 STI,
    405 MI16
    98' 406 Coupe
    406 2l
    91' 205 SI
    306 Style,
    3 X 306 GTI6

  20. #45
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    Very impressive. That would have to be one of the least damaged and most rust free 404's floating around.
    Codman likes this.

  21. #46
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    Oh go on Dano........... you're just jealous!

  22. #47
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    I've never seen a vehicle with such a "perfectly rusted" front fabricated cross member.

    The bottom looks like it's been peeled off.
    Mutual Respect is Contagious


  23. #48
    1000+ Posts Mike Tippett's Avatar
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    Light sandblast and paint underneath and she's good to go!

    Could you please let me know the VIN of the 64 404 so I can add It to the registry? Thanks
    1966 Peugeot 404 Coupé Injection post-restoration reassembly underway!
    2013 Ford Fiesta SE 1.6 manual
    2006 smart BRABUS Tailor-Made Canada 1 cabriolet
    2008 Mercedes-Benz B 200

  24. #49
    Fellow Frogger! Codman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Tippett View Post
    Light sandblast and paint underneath and she's good to go!

    Could you please let me know the VIN of the 64 404 so I can add It to the registry? Thanks
    That's the plan, good sticky under body to keep out the moisture!
    Mike Tippett likes this.
    Current -
    65' 404 Sedan,
    88' 205 GTI/16V
    92' 505 Custom Turbo Wagon
    92' 205 SI
    88' 505 GTI Wagon - PARTING OUT PM ME


    Gone -
    04' 206 RC (GTI180)
    2 X 405 STI,
    405 MI16
    98' 406 Coupe
    406 2l
    91' 205 SI
    306 Style,
    3 X 306 GTI6

  25. #50
    Fellow Frogger! Codman's Avatar
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    Finally! I ordered this from Baker BM on the 21/4! Four months to actually get it here, disappointing as BMs products are great but I think this will be the last time I bother dealing with them. And I'm sure I could have gotten son thing locally in a fraction of the time and possibly cheaper anyways....hindsight huh...
    Now I can start the final bits of assembly, plumbing and mocking up an air box, still waiting on the bigger torsion bars but all the majors are in place!
    Current -
    65' 404 Sedan,
    88' 205 GTI/16V
    92' 505 Custom Turbo Wagon
    92' 205 SI
    88' 505 GTI Wagon - PARTING OUT PM ME


    Gone -
    04' 206 RC (GTI180)
    2 X 405 STI,
    405 MI16
    98' 406 Coupe
    406 2l
    91' 205 SI
    306 Style,
    3 X 306 GTI6

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