306 ignition key issue
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  1. #1
    Member Splintex's Avatar
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    Default 306 ignition key issue

    Lately my 97 306 hatch has decided to give up on starting - by dint of the key not going any further than ON, through to START Not a huge priority, as we're talking about a car that will never be on the road again, but its engine does work, so of course I have been kicking it over regularly and letting it run for an hour or so. Now the ignition key/lock/etc doesn't wanna play ball anymore.

    Mr. Haynes doesn't have any ideas for this problem, regrettably.

    I thought it might have been because the battery ran down, so tonight I jumperleaded it from the sedan. No dice, still

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    Any ideas, fellow froggies? Your most welcome.

  2. #2
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    The key barrel in the 306 is a common issue, they tend to play up and require replacing, if you get a new one its another key, let me know of you get your rekeyed I would like to do [email protected]
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  3. #3
    Member Splintex's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice Matthew, I should consider myself lucky that the one on the sedan is OK so far.

    Since the hatch is only a donor/wrecking car, I'm hardly going to go chasing a key barrel replacement for it.

    I wonder is there any way to "hotwire" the thing. It's only to get it started; the key does go as far as ON.

  4. #4
    Member Splintex's Avatar
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    Sometime last year I bought a 2nd hand key barrel incl wiring - which cost me as much as the car! The other day I unplugged the troublesome one & plugged in the replacement. I only want to start the thing, so didn't see the need to actually install it into the car.
    Result: now I can make the engine crank over, but for whatever reason, can't get it to fire.
    Is this because I haven't installed it and there's a lack of earth, or because it's not installed I'm being baulked by an anti-theft inhibiting system (Warning! Unauthorized Ignition Switch! Car Computer Sez Noooooooooooo) or both maybe?
    Assuming the above, I find I'm unable to physically remove the old ignition barrel from the car.

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Sounds like the imobilliser chip. Try leaving the original key in the original ignition and crank it. The key holds the chip and the coil is clipped around the barrel.

    On the key not turning fully I used a lot of lock lube and a bit of tapping hammer to free it.

    Tim

  6. #6
    Member Splintex's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice Tim.

    Unfortunately Part I of the advice is no good - did that & still won't fire. I subsequently discovered that one key had two batteries stuffed in it, so may try a fresh battery in key (plus some paper wadding inside key) to see if that works. The paper wadding worked a treat in the key remote on my sedan.

    Part II - where would I get lock lube??

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger!
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    I got the Lock Lubricant at Bunnings.

  8. #8
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    G'day,
    it is called Pressol brand graphite. The label states that it works on car locks. It certainly workes on my house locks. Do NOT use WD40 or any thing similar, it will only gum up the lock with dust.
    If the petrol in the car is over 12 months old, you may have trouble starting it.
    regards,
    Les W.


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  9. #9
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    306 ignition key issue-b9225c1a-606c-45fc-841c-84c91f46cfa7.jpg

  10. #10
    Member Splintex's Avatar
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    May be visiting Bunnings today on an unrelated matter, so will look for the lockunlocker then. As to petrol, it didn't have much more than fumes in it, so put most of a jerry can in there.
    Thanks kindly for the advice, will let yez know should I get a result...!

  11. #11
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    Regards Col

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  12. #12
    Member Splintex's Avatar
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    Have rebatteried both keys, got locklube - which I spray into the lock whenever I walk past. Regrettably none of that has resulted in a firing batchhack
    I've also been trying to remove the old key barrel, so I can put the other one in. Not much luck in that either. Haynes says to use a flat screwdriver, but the pic & description are perhaps not being correctly interpreted by me.......

  13. #13
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    I think the immobilizer is in 3 parts, the ring transponder, the key chip and the plastic do-hicky inside the lock. It's obviously there for some reason and that's all I can think of. It's why the things won't fire up when we try to hot wire with another switch leaving the old one still connected into the immobilizer circuit. The old barrel has to rotate to turn off the immobilizer. Theory anyway. Cheers.

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