retightening 505 xn1 cylinder head bolts after initial running - Page 3
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Thread: retightening 505 xn1 cylinder head bolts after initial running

  1. #51
    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
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    Hey, wow ! I've never seen a cable operated clutch on a 505.

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    My understanding of the liner tool is that it makes them sit down as far as they will go. That way you can measure protrusion, as it is measured in thousandths of an inch. Unless you make them sit down, they may not have seated properly and you will get a false reading.

    The tool will not make them stay down.

    When you took out your liners, I'm sure they were stuck in place, but that was only because of corrosion and perhaps some gum (oil residue).

    There is a very small gap between liners and the block. They are a close fit, but they will move around if, in the future, you take off the head. That is why people recommend using bolts or studs with large washers to hold down the liners. If they move when you have taken off the head, then you have got coolant and grit between the bottoms of the liners and the block. Then the bottoms will not seal properly.

    If you want to avoid taking out the engine, just take off the cylinder head, and take off the sump.

    Push out the pistons etc from the bottom. You will have to take off the oil pump again, but that's easy. Then lever out the liners (if you are going to take them out) with two large screwdrivers, moving back and forth.

    It's all a bit of a strain on your back because you have to lean over the engine for a long time, but I've done it quite a few times.

    If you're worried about the main bearings, just take off one or two bearing caps and examine the shells inside, then torque them up again. No problem.


    P.S : Did you put in a new O-ring between the oil pump and the block ?
    Last edited by Beano; 17th February 2017 at 09:06 PM.

  2. #52
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    the liners are new so this time they came out easily, except for piston number 1 or 2 for which you have to disconnect the steering gear from the crossmember. there's no need to remove the oil pump, unless you want to remove the main bearing caps, and yes- i did put new o ring.

  3. #53
    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
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    Okay.

    Well, the way professional mechanics do it is that they always try to put together the story of how the problem happened. They do this by closely examining parts for tell-tale signs of wear, dirt, etc.

    Are you anywhere close to understanding what happened ? Because in the past, when I have been unable to do this, when I put things together again, they failed again. * And that's very irritating. When I was younger I did some fat-headed things on cars, I tell you.

    So when I/we ask you things like "did you get the big end bearing caps mixed up", please don't be offended. At some stage we all did things that were either silly, or absent-minded due to tiredness.

    Perhaps one of the liners got caught on a ridge in the block and just didn't sit down completely ?

    You scraped the block well, where they sit down ?

    It's difficult to give advice on something you cannot see. Do you have an experienced friend over there who can check your work, or at least look at the engine now it's disassembled, and see if he can spot what went wrong ?

    * There is one way out of this, and that is to do every step perfectly.
    Last edited by Beano; 18th February 2017 at 07:52 PM.
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  4. #54
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    beano- no offended at all
    i did clean the block with a lots of carby cleaner and wire brush, as much as possible.
    i did remove the engine, remove the crank, replace all bearings, clean the oil pump, clean all oil galleries, etc.

  5. #55
    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
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    Ok....what about the cylinder head ? It was secondhand, wasn't it ?

    Did anyone check it out ? A machine shop, perhaps ?

    Did you have it skimmed to ensure a straight surface ? Or put a straight edge (steel ruler) across it to check for warping ?

    And....could you possibly post a photo of the surface ?

    BTW, if you used Hylomar, you can clean it off easily with nail polish remover....it's very cheap.

  6. #56
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    the head was indeed bought second hand, i sent it for vavle grinding, but the surface wasn't checked, i'll have it checked this time.

  7. #57
    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
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    You'll probably find that it is warped.


    Quote Originally Posted by robmac View Post
    Personally, if the overflow bottle emptied so fast, I'd suspect a leak between inside a liner and the water jacket.

    Which usually amounts to cylinder head surface condition/corrosion in where the "ringed" area of the head gasket mates with the head.

    But we really need to wait for forensics from 2pac before double guessing.

    And in spite of my varied methods of tensioning XN cylinder head, on one occasion without a torque wrench, on the side of the road, tensioning by guesstimate with a ratchet handle with plug spanner over it for more leverage.

    I've never had a leak on start up nor when I come to think of, ever.

    So I 'd suggest torquing is less important than the condition of the mating surfaces.

    A nice spread of hylomar helps I'd think.
    Take a REALLY close and critical look at the area of the "ringed" area of the head which sits against the liners. The combustion pressure here is enormous.

  8. #58
    1000+ Posts Peter Chisholm's Avatar
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    And always thoroughly check every single part of the head for cleanliness, particularly after any sort of machining is performed.

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