407 V6 won't start after accessory belt change
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Thread: 407 V6 won't start after accessory belt change

  1. #1
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    Default 407 V6 won't start after accessory belt change

    Driving last week, I felt some roughness and lack of power and assumed a coil had failed. Have had this before. 10 minutes of driving later I lost power steering and car stalled and died.
    I found the accessory belt to be shredded and pieces of it everywhere so ordered a belt, coil, and 3 new plugs for the rear bank.
    Not having a windows laptop handy I couldn't use my diagbox kit so I tested all the coils using multimeter and found them all to be the same, 1.1 ohms resistance across the top terminals so not sure what happened there.

    I fitted the belt, 3 new plugs and all coils again and now the engine cranks but no start, tried boosting it as battery reads only 12.3 volts but no success.

    I've pulled one timing belt cover off and pulled a few threads out, but apart from being a bit oily under there it looks tight.
    I'm wondering if the timing has been mucked up somehow. I have spark and gas pumping also..

    I'm really at a loss for ideas, looked around for how to check the timing but not sure if I have the skills to do it..

    Does anyone have any clues??
    Martin

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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts cav91's Avatar
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    Yeah check timing. Often when an alternator belt shreds, it throws bits of itself into the timing belt. And puts the timing out. How does is sound when you crank it? Does it sound like it would without spark plugs (no compression)? If your lucky you may be able to retime it. But I'd be suspecting bent valves. If that's the case probably cheaper to fit a second hand motor.

    Good luck!
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  3. #3
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    Yeah sounds like no comp. Just trying to set up diagbox on laptop and having a bitch of a time, but it may help..

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    Update, I cleared all the codes and re-scanned it. Now all clear and no codes but car still won't start.. Can diagbox find timing issues?

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    COL
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    The only thing I can think of that is easy to check is the TDC sensor, although that should bring up a code, could just need cleaning.

    If you suspect that the cam timing is out you could remove the auxiliary belt, crankshaft pulley and pull the plastic covers off the right side of the motor and check that the 4 cams line up.

    You will need five 8mm bolts to put in the crankshaft and 4 cams. Put the engine on TDC and try to insert bolts in the holes.

    Another method if you suspect bent valves is to do a compression test, this will soon show up any irregularities in the cylinders.

    This is just my worth, but I would try the simple things first and go with the TDC sensor.
    Regards Col

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  6. #6
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    Thanks Col, I'll try to find that TDC sensor. I looked at 'checking timing' in the manual before and was totally confused. The way you explain it makes it sound a lot simpler.
    It looks like I have to remove part of an engine mount to get to the left hand timing belt cover ?
    Regards,
    Martin

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    COL
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    Yes that is correct Martin, before you remove the engine mount you need to support the engine.

    Also reading through your initial post after I posted I see that you have spark so it may not be the TDC sensor.

    There are some videos on you tube that may help as well. You may need to google by your engine type, also keep in mind that these engines are used in other makes of cars as well.
    Regards Col

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    I did the compression test and zero. Mechanic said it could be cylinders washed out with gas and it may take 5 minutes of cranking to start.
    Anyway that didn't work so took it all apart and pegged the crank407 V6 won't start after accessory belt change-20161129_123821.jpg407 V6 won't start after accessory belt change-20161129_123433.jpg and this is what's happening up top.
    I'm assuming this is bad news..

  9. #9
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    Looks like bent valves then.

    Heads off and recondition appears to be the next option!

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    Mmm . Anyone know a good source for valves, guides, etc?

  11. #11
    COL
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    Quote Originally Posted by martin74 View Post
    I did the compression test and zero. Mechanic said it could be cylinders washed out with gas and it may take 5 minutes of cranking to start.
    Anyway that didn't work so took it all apart and pegged the crankClick image for larger version. 

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ID:	91470 and this is what's happening up top.
    I'm assuming this is bad news..
    Its not looking good, I think those two holes are suppose to line up.

    Like Roland says I think you have bent valves.

    You will need new valves and a cam belt kit. The cam belt kits are about $430. Not sure what the valves cost but there is 24 of them.

    Did you do a compression test on all cylinders?
    Regards Col

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    I haven't compression checked the rear cylinders yet, will try later. Just running around trying to find a new vehicle, and looking at options ..
    Also yesterday I noticed one of the camshaft pulleys was slightly wobbly when I was cranking it, maybe 1 mm of lateral movement. I couldn't budge it by hand though.

  13. #13
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    We don't have the "don't like" button either. Sorry Martin I hate bent valves. ....X 24

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  14. #14
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    Well I never would have thought an accessory belt could wreak so much havoc. Lesson learned. No compression on any cylinder. While in there I noticed quite a few other things that make it uneconomical to save, and engines are pretty scarce and expensive here. So off to the wreckers she goes soon for $1000 minus towing, which I thought was not bad.. I was ready to part it out myself.. A Mondeo 2l manual wagon to drive around in now! ( quite practical actually)

    I would go another 407 in future but would much prefer a 2.2 manual.

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