Oil and fuel for 505
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  1. #1
    Member Platypus's Avatar
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    Icon5 Oil and fuel for 505

    This subject has probably been done to death,but help a newbie anyway.
    I've just bought a 505 STi with 252,000 on the clock.Standard and runs sweet.What is the best oil for this critter,and what sort of juice would it prefer?
    please


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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts silverexec's Avatar
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    Hey Platypus, congrats on your purchase!

    Yeah, there's been a fair bit of discussion over the years on oil and fuel for 505s, and you can find most of this by doing a search using the Search link above.

    In my GTi (which has the same engine as the STi but with electronic fuel injection instead of mechanical), I've been using Penrite 15w60 semi-synth engine oil, but am planning to try out Motul 15w50 semi-synth as I've recently discovered it at my local Autobarn. The Penrite oil has been fine, but I've heard concerns from others about it being too thick (Peugeot originally specified 10w40!) hence my plan to try out the Motul oil.

    In terms of fuel, I'm running on 98RON stuff (Optimax, BP Ultimate, Synergy 8000), but have recently driven a 505 GTi still using LRP that actually drove better than mine! I think it's more to do with the average condition of my engine and the tuning than the fuel I'm using at the moment. I think 505s can also run on plain unleaded but with the timing slightly retarded to avoid pinging.

    Cheers,
    Richard
    - Richard

    Now: 405 SRI D70 '93
    - 2.0L manual
    Earlier: 505 GTi Executive '85
    - hence "Silver Exec"...
    25 GTX '86
    - manual conversion

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! zac505's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by silverexec
    Hey Platypus,...In terms of fuel, I'm running on 98RON stuff (Optimax, BP Ultimate, Synergy 8000), but have recently driven a 505 GTi still using LRP that actually drove better than mine! I think it's more to do with the average condition of my engine and the tuning than the fuel I'm using at the moment. I think 505s can also run on plain unleaded but with the timing slightly retarded to avoid pinging.

    Cheers,
    Richard
    According to the Haynes manual unleaded (95 RON) fuel can be used on some models:

    XN1 & XN1A engines, 1986 on, without modification
    ZEJK & ZDJL engines need retarding by 2 degrees

    I'm no expert though. It's just what the (Euro.) book says...zac

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! yawood's Avatar
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    I use Shell Optimax or Caltex Vortex in my 505 GTi (in fact in all my cars). Not only do they give you the oomph of 98ron but I'm sure they run cleaner and in an injected engine they help to keep the jets clean. I don't think the additional expense is a worry, especially as you usually get better consumption with them anyway and they look after the engine so well they save on maintenance costs. I also figure that European cars are generally built for 98ron so why not give it to them.

    If you shop at Coles you'll get 4c/litre off the Optimax and, in Canberra anyway, you get 4c/litre off the Vortex by shopping at Woolies (BTW, I wouldn't touch the woolies own petrol with a barge pole).

    As for oil, I plan on using Mobil 1 15W-50 rather than the recommended 10W-40 because my engine's done 376,000km (I say 'plan on' because I've only recently got the vehicle and haven't done an oil change yet). My engine's supposedly got a sticking ring so I figure the Mobile 1 fully synthetic may help clean that. Though I have heard that going to fully synthetic in an engine that's been used to normal oil can make it leak (but mine leaks anyway so what the hell). I'll let you know how it goes.
    Last edited by yawood; 15th April 2004 at 07:37 PM.
    Bruce

    Currently owned:
    1988 505 GTi S2 Familial
    1999 E46 BMW 328Ci, 2002 Falcon AUIII Ute
    Previously owned:
    ('78-'81) 1970 504 (with the beautiful French seats)
    ('81-'89) 1977 504 (took the family on postings to Sydney, Melbourne, Perth and Canberra)
    Brother owned:
    203,403,404,504 (each when they were current vehicles)

  5. #5
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    Bruce,

    I ran BP premium (95ron) in the wagon as the local servo has it on rack pricing, 5c/litre more than the unleaded price of the day. It will run on normal unleaded without any noticable pinging, but it runs better on premium & gets maybe 50km more on a tank as well.

    It's been on semi-synth oil for the last 50000 odd kms at 5000 change intervals. Usually comes out pretty clean too. I found this was the most economical consistent with good lubrication, as semi synth is around $30-35 per change compared with $70-70-80 for Mobil 1. PaulV also thinks semi synth is the best compromise on this engine, given that the book service interval was/is 7500.

    The other thing to do is change the coolant every 12 months, and only top up with coolant, not water. I'm sure that following that regime is why I never had cooling problems.

    Cheers,

    Barry.

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! yawood's Avatar
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    Thanks Barry,

    It's really running very sweetly at the moment (I'm on my third tank of Optimax/Vortex). Am still having the occasional problem with the starter but once it spins it fires first time and really purrs. I'll take your advice on the oil - no sense in throwing money away. I'm using it as a daily driver and do about 35km a day but at highway speeds (not the Sydney crawl).

    Cheers.
    Bruce

    Currently owned:
    1988 505 GTi S2 Familial
    1999 E46 BMW 328Ci, 2002 Falcon AUIII Ute
    Previously owned:
    ('78-'81) 1970 504 (with the beautiful French seats)
    ('81-'89) 1977 504 (took the family on postings to Sydney, Melbourne, Perth and Canberra)
    Brother owned:
    203,403,404,504 (each when they were current vehicles)

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger!
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    Quote Originally Posted by yawood
    Thanks Barry,

    It's really running very sweetly at the moment (I'm on my third tank of Optimax/Vortex). Am still having the occasional problem with the starter but once it spins it fires first time and really purrs. I'll take your advice on the oil - no sense in throwing money away. I'm using it as a daily driver and do about 35km a day but at highway speeds (not the Sydney crawl).

    Cheers.
    Bruce,

    Good to hear it's running well. I'm sure the run down the Canberra would have been good for it as well. - it always seemed to run better after a quick Sydney-Lismore return trip.

    Thinking about the starter, it might be the ignition switch rather than the starter motor. It's been replaced before (can't remember exactly when) but not for this problem. What it did was the starter turned, but wouldn't start at all. Yet, if I rolled downhill & clutch started it, started first time. Turned out the ignition was (sometimes) disconnected while the starter was turning due to that bit of the switch being worn. PaulV says a relay on the solenoid power will fix the click click problem. I didn't do it because it didn't seem to be getting any worse, and the starter is a real %%$% to get at, so was saving it up for the big engine overhaul.

    Barry.

  8. #8
    Member Platypus's Avatar
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    Thanks guys,
    98 it is then(I suspected that it might be better on 98 but the bloke I bought it off was using 91 so I thought I'd check).
    Semi-synth should be OK as from what I understand the main benefit of full-synth is less oil degradation at the very high temperatures you get with cramped engine bays and turboed motors.This isn't really relevant to a 505.
    So I think I'll go a 15W/50 (due to the age of the motor the clearances must have grown).
    Yawood,I've heard of motors leaking on full synth but I've also heard this is due to most full-synths being thinner(some are only 5W/30).My previous car
    (an R32 Skyline GTS4)ran on 10W/40 Valvoline full synthetic and didn't leak a drop.Pricey stuff though.

  9. #9
    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    Yawood... what's wrong with Caltex? Barge pole?

  10. #10
    nJm
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    I agree with the others that 98Octane is the best. My personal experience says BP Ultimate is best, followed by Shell Optimax. While Mobil Synergy seems to give me a sudden power boost at first, the engine quickly runs like crap until I fill it up again with one of the other two. I think this is more to do with the rather sensitive carburettor on my 505.

    As for oil, well I don't have the 2.2L engine so can't really comment, but I've always been under the impression that once they get a bit old, 10w40 will be too thin. I bought my 2L 505 with 255,000km on it and normally run 20w50 oil since then (now at 280,000km). I tried 15w50 semi-synth once and it leaked a bit more. I made the mistake of getting it serviced at a mechanic after that and he put 25w60 in it! I couldn't believe it, ran like a dog for those 5000km. I guess one of the reasons I'm happy with 20w50 Mobil in mine is it runs well, and is usually available at Kmart for $11 for 5L
    Nick
    1983 Peugeot 505 GR


    "All of its cars from the 1.1 litre 205 through the ugly duckling 309 to the 2.2 litre 505 GTi had a rightness and a righteousness about them that turned every humdrum drive into a journey. Someone, I once wrote, in the bowels of Peugeot understands handling and how a chassis should feel." - Jeremy Clarkson

  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger! yawood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ray Bell
    Yawood... what's wrong with Caltex? Barge pole?
    Ray, you don't read carefully enough! There's nothing wrong with Caltex - it's the Woolies own brand that's no good. Once Coles started a deal with Shell, Woolies sales were going south bigtime, so they've now hooked up with Caltex to get the trade back. It worked with me, I'll happily shop there for Caltex but not for the cheap Woolies imported stuff.
    Bruce

    Currently owned:
    1988 505 GTi S2 Familial
    1999 E46 BMW 328Ci, 2002 Falcon AUIII Ute
    Previously owned:
    ('78-'81) 1970 504 (with the beautiful French seats)
    ('81-'89) 1977 504 (took the family on postings to Sydney, Melbourne, Perth and Canberra)
    Brother owned:
    203,403,404,504 (each when they were current vehicles)

  12. #12
    Fellow Frogger! yawood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by barryg
    Bruce,

    ...Thinking about the starter, it might be the ignition switch rather than the starter motor. It's been replaced before (can't remember exactly when) but not for this problem. What it did was the starter turned, but wouldn't start at all. Yet, if I rolled downhill & clutch started it, started first time. Turned out the ignition was (sometimes) disconnected while the starter was turning due to that bit of the switch being worn.
    Barry.
    It's interesting that you should say that and I remember you telling me that the starter had been replaced, hence the different key. I think it was hooked up incorrectly when it was replaced and I'm going to take it out to check it. The problem is that the first position is supposed to be accessories only but on this car it brings up the whole ignition. I just replaced the radio with a CD one and hooked it up to operate with the ignition - problem is that with the ignition switch wired the way it is, you can't run the radio when you're stopped without the whole igition lighting up, which is no doubt why you had the old one not working off the ignition.
    Bruce

    Currently owned:
    1988 505 GTi S2 Familial
    1999 E46 BMW 328Ci, 2002 Falcon AUIII Ute
    Previously owned:
    ('78-'81) 1970 504 (with the beautiful French seats)
    ('81-'89) 1977 504 (took the family on postings to Sydney, Melbourne, Perth and Canberra)
    Brother owned:
    203,403,404,504 (each when they were current vehicles)

  13. #13
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    i use BP ultimate only in both the cars here and they love it

    shell i only use at a pinch if i have to get fuel as i have found their fuel to be inconsistant in quality

    as for Caltex i avoid them as i have found over time that their staff no matter where i go seem to be very rude and that rules them out for me

    the other thing is nearly every BP has ultimate
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x 2018 3008

    1 x 2000 Citroen XM,

    1 x '98 306 GTi6 sadly sold

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0

  14. #14
    Fellow Frogger! yawood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Platypus
    Yawood,I've heard of motors leaking on full synth but I've also heard this is due to most full-synths being thinner(some are only 5W/30).My previous car
    (an R32 Skyline GTS4)ran on 10W/40 Valvoline full synthetic and didn't leak a drop.Pricey stuff though.
    My beemer runs on Mobil 1 0W-40 (it's like water in the bottle it's so thin). It's great in the beemer but I wouldn't want it in the 505. As I've said before it's horses-for-courses with oil. Actually Mobil 1 make a 0W-20 oil also!
    Bruce

    Currently owned:
    1988 505 GTi S2 Familial
    1999 E46 BMW 328Ci, 2002 Falcon AUIII Ute
    Previously owned:
    ('78-'81) 1970 504 (with the beautiful French seats)
    ('81-'89) 1977 504 (took the family on postings to Sydney, Melbourne, Perth and Canberra)
    Brother owned:
    203,403,404,504 (each when they were current vehicles)

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