505 cooling issues
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  1. #1
    1000+ Posts silverexec's Avatar
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    Default 505 cooling issues

    Another issue I'm having with the Pug at the moment is cooling. Over the weekend I flushed out the block, radiator, hoses, heater, etc and installed a new thermostat and fresh coolant in the hope that the Pug would run bit cooler than it did previously. I'm running an electric radiator fan so I expect the engine to warm up fairly quickly, but after the fan has cut in and out bringing the temp back to the midway mark on the temp gauge, it doesn't take very long at all for it to climb back up and cause the fan to come on again.

    This was its behaviour prior to the flush. After I did the flush, the temp gauge seems to hang around the fan cut-in point almost all the time (one notch above midway), sometimes going a notch above this as well. It's definitely running hotter than it did before.

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    Could there be air in the system or something? I don't know how I'd be able to get any out considering the lack of a bleed screw on my engine. What do you guys think?

    Cheers again,
    Richard
    - Richard

    Now: 405 SRI D70 '93
    - 2.0L manual
    Earlier: 505 GTi Executive '85
    - hence "Silver Exec"...
    25 GTX '86
    - manual conversion

  2. #2
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    Not sure if it is a problem you might have here but after a water pump change and flush on my 505 GR it was running hot.
    New thermostat, etc installed.

    Discovered the fan belt was a bit loose. Wasn't immediately noticeably as my deflection check on the mid way point seemed okay.
    Eventually there was a slight squeal which gave it away.

    Once tighened again the gauge stays around the half way zone.

    ps. Where is the drain plug for the block?
    Have looked every where to no avail.

    ___________________________________
    Peter. 505 '83 GR

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! yawood's Avatar
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    Have you checked the timing? If that's OK, check that the waterpump is actually pumping well. Alloy engines can build up a fair amount of gunk in the passages, especially if they haven't always been run with the correct mixture (I always use distilled or demineralised water for the mix when I have a vehicle from new). This gunk may not be fully dislodged by the flush and be stopping the proper circulation.

    If you try everything to no avail, fit an oil cooler. That'll also help the temps.
    Bruce

    Currently owned:
    1988 505 GTi S2 Familial
    1999 E46 BMW 328Ci, 2002 Falcon AUIII Ute
    Previously owned:
    ('78-'81) 1970 504 (with the beautiful French seats)
    ('81-'89) 1977 504 (took the family on postings to Sydney, Melbourne, Perth and Canberra)
    Brother owned:
    203,403,404,504 (each when they were current vehicles)

  4. #4
    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    The drain plug is adjacent to the rear cylinder under the exhaust manifold... low enough down in the block to be near the bottom of the waterjacket.

    Not sure if it's a 17mm or 19mm hex head... one of them...

  5. #5
    nJm
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ray Bell
    The drain plug is adjacent to the rear cylinder under the exhaust manifold... low enough down in the block to be near the bottom of the waterjacket.

    Not sure if it's a 17mm or 19mm hex head... one of them...
    Ray, are you talking about SilverExec's 2.2L GTi engine or Pug_504_505's 2L GR?
    Nick
    1983 Peugeot 505 GR


    "All of its cars from the 1.1 litre 205 through the ugly duckling 309 to the 2.2 litre 505 GTi had a rightness and a righteousness about them that turned every humdrum drive into a journey. Someone, I once wrote, in the bowels of Peugeot understands handling and how a chassis should feel." - Jeremy Clarkson

  6. #6
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nJm
    Ray, are you talking about SilverExec's 2.2L GTi engine or Pug_504_505's 2L GR?

    I'd say he is talking about the XN block as i think the drain plug on the douvrin engine is towards the front of the block
    3 x '78 604 SL

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  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger! yawood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by silverexec
    ...Could there be air in the system or something? I don't know how I'd be able to get any out considering the lack of a bleed screw on my engine. What do you guys think?

    Cheers again,
    Richard
    Richard, my '88 GTi has a bleed screw on the throttle housing. I take it yours doesn't have that?
    Bruce

    Currently owned:
    1988 505 GTi S2 Familial
    1999 E46 BMW 328Ci, 2002 Falcon AUIII Ute
    Previously owned:
    ('78-'81) 1970 504 (with the beautiful French seats)
    ('81-'89) 1977 504 (took the family on postings to Sydney, Melbourne, Perth and Canberra)
    Brother owned:
    203,403,404,504 (each when they were current vehicles)

  8. #8
    Gone Fishin' Ray Bell's Avatar
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    The GR is the XN engine, on which there has never been (to my knowledge, anyway...) a bleed screw anywhere.

  9. #9
    1000+ Posts Shobbz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ray Bell
    The GR is the XN engine, on which there has never been (to my knowledge, anyway...) a bleed screw anywhere.
    hmm so the xn or xn1's don't have bleed screws?

    How do u get the air out?

    silverexec, not sure if its been mentioned or u have allready done so. I replaced the top and bottom hoses on my radiator a while back. Car runs a lot cooler on average. Temp climbs in traffic and hill etc but comes back to half way a lot faster than before with the new hoses?

    hope the pug cools it soon

    shobbz
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  10. #10
    1000+ Posts silverexec's Avatar
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    Thanks for the replys. Peter, I'll check the fan belt again - I actually did a belt change at the same time so I was planning to re-tension them again on Saturday. I might try doing it a bit sooner to see if that fixes it up.

    Shobbz, I replaced the top and bottom radiator hoses as well...

    OK then, when I check out the belts, I'll also check the timing. I should have checked out the water pump when the coolant was drained, but I wasn't sure if I'd need a new gasket or something when putting it back on so I left it as is.

    One thing I noticed when the thermostat housing was off, was that there was a fair amount of some kind of smooth creamy-coloured coating lining the inside of the housing. I was able to scrape it off but it made me wonder if any of that stuff is blocking passageways inside the engine as well.

    Ray and others, I haven't had any luck trying to find a bleed screw or drain plug on the block. I think the XN engine has a bleed screw in one of the radiator hoses, does it not? The series 1 ZDJL doesn't have this, or one on the throttle housing either. I think the air just works it way out after running the engine for a while.

    Some time ago, Gus - a fellow frogger who hasn't been around for a while - claimed he found the drain plug on the GTi engine and took pics on it in this thread: Bleeding the cooling system - 505GTi
    Unfortunately I didn't save the pics, and the link to them doesn't seem to work anymore. I had a good look all over the left side of the block and couldn't find anything that looked like the drain plug so I gave up.

    I'll have a look at the things that have been mentioned, hopefully one of them will fix things up.

    Cheers,
    Richard
    - Richard

    Now: 405 SRI D70 '93
    - 2.0L manual
    Earlier: 505 GTi Executive '85
    - hence "Silver Exec"...
    25 GTX '86
    - manual conversion

  11. #11
    Budding Architect ???? pugrambo's Avatar
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    get a coke bottle and stick in the radiator

    fill the bottle 1/2 way and squeeze all the hoses till you don't get any air bubble rising

    ensure the heater is open while going through all this

    put 1 litre in the overflow and replace the rad cap, start the car and get it up to operating temp then shut it down......... slowly crack the overflow cap to release pressure then tighten.........open up rad cap and place coke bottle back in and top up rad till bottle is 1/2 full........squeeze hoses again and replace cap

    over the next couple of trips check water level in the rad when cold and top up if need be and all should be ok

    this is what i do with the 604 and i haven't had to top up now for weeks
    i only had to top up once and that was it

    hope that helps
    3 x '78 604 SL

    1 x 2018 3008

    1 x 2000 Citroen XM,

    1 x '98 306 GTi6 sadly sold

    1 x secret project

    1 x '98 406 STDT troop carrier and i don't care if it stinks, i don't sniff it's arse Death by wank tank

    1 x '99 406SV 5spd wagon, time to burn more fuel

    1 x 1994 605 SV3.0

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