607 photochromatic mirror
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Thread: 607 photochromatic mirror

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    Default 607 photochromatic mirror

    I am trying to connect a mirror that may not have originally come from a 607. The wires on the mirror are Black, White and Grey and not the same as those on the vehicle. I assume that one lead is for battery supply, another for connection to reverse light switch and the third is to earth. If I was to connect an Ohmmeter across any 2 wires and press the on switch on the mirror, a zero or near zero reading on the meter would identify the correct pair but not identify which one is earth. Not wishing to let the smoke out of the mirror I was hoping that someone out there could help me solve the problem. Is it necessary to cover the light sensitive diodes before doing this test. I have no trouble identifying the vehicle wiring
    Also has anyone dismantled on of these mirrors and inform me if it is necessary to use some type of glue solvent in order to dismantle the mirror body

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    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    You won't see a zero if there are semiconductors in the circuit but still worth a test.

    What functions does the mirror have?
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    Quote Originally Posted by crazy fool View Post
    I am trying to connect a mirror that may not have originally come from a 607. The wires on the mirror are Black, White and Grey and not the same as those on the vehicle. I assume that one lead is for battery supply, another for connection to reverse light switch and the third is to earth. If I was to connect an Ohmmeter across any 2 wires and press the on switch on the mirror, a zero or near zero reading on the meter would identify the correct pair but not identify which one is earth. Not wishing to let the smoke out of the mirror I was hoping that someone out there could help me solve the problem. Is it necessary to cover the light sensitive diodes before doing this test. I have no trouble identifying the vehicle wiring
    Also has anyone dismantled on of these mirrors and inform me if it is necessary to use some type of glue solvent in order to dismantle the mirror body
    Quite a difficult question since you haven't told us the origins of the mirror in question.

    Ascertaining the car to which the mirror was originally fitted and finding a wiring diagram for that vehicle is probably the best starting point.

    Unless you are well versed in component level circuit tracing.
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    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    I think he wants to identify the wires on the mirror, not on the car.

    Still, perhaps easiest to find a wiring diagram for the vehicle the mirror comes from to see how to marry it to the new car.
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    Quote Originally Posted by schlitzaugen View Post
    I think he wants to identify the wires on the mirror, not on the car.

    Still, perhaps easiest to find a wiring diagram for the vehicle the mirror comes from to see how to marry it to the new car.
    Sure, but reverse engineering the original vehicle wiring would definitely give more info than the 3 wire colors, which is all that is currently conclusively known .
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    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Yeah, my bad, didn't read your first post carefully.

    If you know for sure what componentry might be in the mirror (I imagine something very simple, say some LEDs) you could come up with a simple test to see what's what. That is why I asked what functions the mirror does.

    PS. Never mind that, just had a quick google and found what the mirror looks like inside. Little chance of figuring it out "blindly". You need to open the sucker up, there's no other way.

    But I still wonder what the third wire is needed for?
    Last edited by schlitzaugen; 3rd October 2016 at 01:39 PM.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

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    Many thanks for your replies. This I might add is my third attempt to reply. The 3 wires are (a) battery supply (b) earth (c) connection to reverse light switch or reverse gear. The mirror has (a) a manual on /off switch (b) a light emitting diode to signify if mirror is on or off (c) a forward facing light sensitive resistor to control mirror operation in darkness (d) a rear facing light sensitive diode to control mirror operation when driver is blinded by traffic coming from behind.
    The mirror was fitted to this vehicle but was never connected. Neither mirror or vehicle had connectors fitted to the wiring. The vehicle wiring is complete and operational. I would like to make the mirror operational.How it operates "hell Knows"
    The mirror may have come from a 407 but even the wiring colour code for this 607 does not match the car
    I may be incorrect with my Ohmeter assumptions but as the mirror has a light emitting diode it would need current to operate and the Ohmeter reading would signify continuity. I may have to reverse the meter connections in case the circuit is diode protected but I assume I would get some sort of reading
    my request for some solvent information was in case I had to dismantle this mirror in order to try and trace the circuitry but I would prefer to avoid this if possible

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    The third wire is there to remove the dimming effect of the mirror when reverse gear is selected to give the driver a better view

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    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Okay. I get it now.

    No, the meter won't tell you anything about the mirror but as already said, worth a shot. My guess is the ON switch only works when everything is powered, but to get there, you have to power it (duh). In absence of power the meter will show no continuity between any wire pairs.

    The meter should definitely help you identify the wires on the car.

    A hare brained idea would be to get one of those 12V batteries used in whatever, you know button cells which can only manage pissy currents in the 10mA range. That might not burn anything if connected the wrong way around (hopefully). Might get the "ON" LED to turn on for a second, in which case you are onto a winner. You found the correct positive and negative.

    Got balls?

    PS. Don't use any solvent to dismantle the mirror, you might end with a plasticky mess. Use brute force like any decent human being! At least that way all you'll destroy is the plastic shell, which then you can repair using the solvent!
    Last edited by schlitzaugen; 3rd October 2016 at 04:15 PM.
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    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

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    Many thanks for the small 12 V battery idea. This may just do the trick. With a bit of luck an A27 or A23 battery may produce enough current to energise the innards without letting the smoke escape from the thing. If anyone has reservations about using this I would appreciate your input. Someone may have another alternative.

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    Quote Originally Posted by schlitzaugen View Post
    A hare brained idea would be to get one of those 12V batteries used in whatever, you know button cells which can only manage pissy currents in the 10mA range. That might not burn anything if connected the wrong way around (hopefully). Might get the "ON" LED to turn on for a second, in which case you are onto a winner. You found the correct positive and negative.

    Got balls?
    Not so harebrained, instead of a special battery you can put a suitable resistor in series (V=IR and all that) or even easier is a globe of appropriate current rating, say the 3W interior lamps of old. Put a few meters of cable on the lamp with crocodile clips and its a handy diagnostic tool for checking power to relays etc.
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    Yeah, the problem with a current limiting resistor is that if your power source is capable of giving enough current it may still kill something (I am thinking surface mounted componentry) but worth trying as well perhaps with a resistor to limit current to about 10mA and unplug quickly if nothing obvious happens.
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    Just an update on the mirror testing. Using an Ohmeter I read 147K ohms when connected to black and grey wires. The same result when ohmmeter connections are reversed. An open circuit reading when connected to any other combination of wires. I therefore am of the conclusion that the smoke has escaped from the unit which requires me to dismantle same. I still do not know which of the grey or black wires is the earth. Having so high an ohms reading suggests it is of no point in connecting the 12 volt 18milli amp hour battery so as to check operation of the LED. Also as the reading is the same both directions it tells me that if I connected the mirror I would have a short circuit which would eventually drain the vehicle battery. The mirror was not connected originally. I am guessing the mirror is from a Restyled 406 that is fitted with automatic operated windscreen wipers. Will search for a replacement mirror before I attack this one trying to get it apart

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    Where do you think you would have the short circuit? 147 KOhm with 12V across it would mean a current in the micro Amp range, and the open circuits of the other two wires would mean zero current.

    I suggested in my posts above this might happen because everything depends on being energised by the on/off switch before it does anything. I find as mentioned above this is an inconclusive test.

    Don't know what the 147 KOhm value means. It may mean some capacitor across the voltage supply for filtering. Does your meter have a capacitor measuring capability? Try that and see what happens.

    Notwithstanding that test, I say there's nothing to lose if you run the low capacity battery test.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

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    Many thanks for the input. My Ohmmeter test was with the manual switch both open and closed. I received a 147k Ohms reading both times. I also reversed the leads and the readings were the same. This to me meant that the circuit between the Black and Grey wires was complete and current ever so small would flow. I would have assumed that current would not be meant to flow with the circuit closed. Hence my term "short circuit" Given the fact that an indication LED is in the circuit I would have thought that 147K ohms would cause such a large resistance that this LED would not operate. On connecting my small 12Volt battery into the circuit "momentarily" this proved to be the case. Unfortunately my limited tool kit does not run to a capacitance tester but be that as it may I would not expect to see the readings that I received. Like yourself I have no idea what the 147K resistance is

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    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    My suggestion is that you might be measuring a filtering capacitor across the power supply, but outside the circuit itself which might be open in spite of you pressing the on/off switch (if it is a surface mount soft touch, it won't actually close the circuit even if you kept it pressed down in the absence of power). Difficult to guess with no wiring diagram. That capacitor might look like a resistor to a basic machine whilst it is charging from the minute current put in by the meter. Or it might have a resistor in parallel to it and that is what you're measuring.

    Either way if you don't have a better meter, there's no point.

    Do you have a variable/adjustable power source? You could plug in a small voltage (say 1V, perhaps through a current limiting resistor, say about 10mA) and adjust it up slowly watching what happens. I would disconnect everything if nothing happens at very low voltage and reverse polarity first (before trying to increase voltage).
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

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    A quick Google and I found this, it may help you a little.

    Auto-dimming mirror wiring? - Peugeot Forums
    Regards Col

    1973 Renault R12 Station Wagon
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    You little beauty Col. Problem solved. Mirror is from a 406 IIRC and can connect wires with certainty. Between yourself and Schlitzaigen I can ascertain if all is well with the unit. For anyone else that would want to fit one of these mirrors to a 607 I would advise against it unless you swap the internal alloy mounts. The windscreen mounts are different in depth and the mirror is damn near impossible to remove. This one must have been bashed on with a hammer for you would not be able to slide it on by hand

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