bleeding the clutch on a 504 how??
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Thread: bleeding the clutch on a 504 how??

  1. #1
    ccc
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    Default bleeding the clutch on a 504 how??

    Hi
    Well the diff seal was replaced, brake lines re installed and bled.
    It turns out after doing the brakes, the clutch isnt working as its hydraulic line must also be bled.
    Haynes recommends having a specialist do it, altho it does give amethod..
    Has anyone experience/knowledge on how to do this??
    Advice appreciated.
    CCC

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    Fellow Frogger! John505's Avatar
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    You connect a line from the left brake caliper to the choke slave cylinder and then pump the brakes and force the clutch air bubbles back up the choke plastic line. That is from memory a number of years ago. The difficulties I had were getting a seal with the line which tended to leak! Maybe others could help you with other ways of achieving the same result.
    John505

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    ccc
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    Hi John
    Where is the choke slave cylinder> is there a nipple to apply the plastic line to> how long does the plastic pipe need to be?
    thx ccc

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    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
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    Correct, more or less. You simply cannot bleed them like you would expect. You can try to do it the way you'd expect and you'll be there for hours.

    Put a half-metre plastic hose between brake bleeder nipple and CLUTCH (not choke ! ) slave nipple. Pump brake. Hose may pop off, unless held on with a wire tie.

    (Before you do this, just briefly bleed that wheel's brake cylinder to get fresh brake fluid into it. Dirty fluid will come out for about 3 or 4 pumps).

    Easier is to arrange the line between clutch master and slave so there are no roller coaster ups and downs in it. That way air can travel up easily.
    Tap line repeatedly with spanner and air bubbles will go up. Pump clutch pedal a few times and repeat. Leave a few mins (or perhaps 20) if it hasn't worked and repeat. The air bubbles sometimes need time to rise.


    If your clutch hydraulics were not touched during the time the car has been off the road doing other stuff, and the clutch needs to now be bled, this indicates your seals are old and hard. They have let air in the first couple of times you put your foot on the pedal.
    You will need to re-kit the master and slave soon....ish.
    Last edited by Beano; 27th September 2016 at 01:04 PM.

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    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ccc View Post
    Hi John
    Where is the choke slave cylinder> is there a nipple to apply the plastic line to> how long does the plastic pipe need to be?
    thx ccc
    Choke is a mistake I would suggest, Clutch is intended.

    If you don't want bleed the clutch via the brakes. You can achieve the same result with a surplus fuel pump (the type with the manual priming lever). Fill a jar with brake fluid and fit a couple of tight fitting hose to the inlet and outlet of the pump.

    Put the outlet hose onto the, loosened, clutch slave bleed nipple (at the bottom of the assembly) and submerge the inlet hose into the jar of brake fluid. And pump fluid with the prime lever. When the clutch master reservoir is full the process is complete. Close the slave bleed nipple.

    The same rig allows one person bleeding of brakes, because the check valve in pump closes on the pedal up stoke and stops air getting in the system. The bled fluid ends up in jar.
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    My wife has contact lenses ,the saline solution bottles are perfect ,put some brake fluid in attach hose ,connect to open bleeder ,then squeeze

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    Agree on the reverse bleeding method by pumping fluid into the slave cylinder via the nipple. I use an oil can from Supercheap with the nozzle cut off


    Toledo Oil Can - Lever Type Rigid Spout 200ml - 305257 - Supercheap Auto
    bahay and Peter Chisholm like this.

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    I use a large syringe from my local chemist , only a few dollars.
    Use a short length of clear tube and connect it to the slave cylinder bleed nipple and slowly inject brake fluid into the hydrulic system as described above.
    Dano likes this.
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    ccc
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    thanks guys.

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    Fellow Frogger! John505's Avatar
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    Cc,
    I meant the clutch slave cylinder bleed nipple - sorry for the confusion.
    John505

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    1000+ Posts Wildebeest's Avatar
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    The down side to bleeding the clutch via the brake m/cyl is that the brake piston will now be entering the area where there could be a build up of crud and possibly causing a cyl leak?

    PS. I prefer the oil can/syringe method of bleeding as posted.
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  12. #12
    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
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    Good point. Easy to get lead-footed on the brake pedal. Too much practice with the accelerator

    Bleeding the brake system (or its equivalent, here) needs to be done carefully, with one's foot only going down half-way, or the master cylinder seals can get damaged on lower parts of the cylinder they normally never go down to.
    Last edited by Beano; 28th September 2016 at 08:18 PM.

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    I always thought the best way was to undo circuit. Rotate slave cylinder until bleed nipple is at the top. The system will self bleed like this.

    Sent from my E5823 using aussiefrogs mobile app
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    The syringe method has the added advantage that you can use the syringe to suck up old fluid from the master cylinder before adding new fluid the the system
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    Here is the official manual. Peugeot use a made-up tool, a hose with a threaded union on one end.
    bleeding the clutch on a 504 how??-504.jpg

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    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by seasink View Post
    Here is the official manual. Peugeot use a made-up tool, a hose with a threaded union on one end.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I'm positive that most AFers will have a pressure bleeder in their home workshop.

    For the few that don't have a pressure bleeder system, there is the syringe, oil can and surplus fuel pump techniques. All of which have proven effectiveness in carrying out the bleeding task.
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  17. #17
    1000+ Posts BIGRR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gordini17 View Post
    I always thought the best way was to undo circuit. Rotate slave cylinder until bleed nipple is at the top. The system will self bleed like this.

    Sent from my E5823 using aussiefrogs mobile app

    Been wondering when someone would post this!
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    Quote Originally Posted by BIGRR View Post
    Been wondering when someone would post this!
    On 404's I used to bleed the assembly off the car. All that is needed is to remove the hose support that is bolted next to the wiper motor.

    After that, the slave cylinder, with flexible nylon line still attached, will thread back through the engine bay. Best way to go after a full recondition of clutch master and slave.

    At other times all that is needed is press the "tit" in the middle of the master and the air will self bleed by gravity.
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  19. #19
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
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    I also use a syringe. Takes no time at all, and is very easy to do.

    404s and early 504s had a thick, plastic tube which was difficult to bleed any other way. Later models, with the thin metal pipe are dead easy to bleed - fill master cylinder reservoir, open bleed nipple with a container underneath to catch the dripping fluid. Wait until it starts dripping... usually less than a minute. Close bleed nipple. Pump clutch pedal until it feels right. Job done.
    Dano likes this.
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