Cleaning engine bay advice please
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Thread: Cleaning engine bay advice please

  1. #1
    1000+ Posts Isis's Avatar
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    Default Cleaning engine bay advice please

    205 GTi - it really just has a mild grime layer and dust. Is it possible to cover up some parts and apply a light detergent spray to soak, then hit it with a high pressure spray from a distance, enough to rinse but not force water in anywhere? Trying get into all the nooks and crannies with a toothbrush is not my idea of fun...

    thanks in advance.

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    S3 205 GTI x 4 and getting lower
    1998 S1 Lotus Elise
    2013 Fiesta ST
    2014 Audi SQ5

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    I like to use the Export degreaser from Supercheap, then spray off with water, rather than a alkaline based degreaser. The water won't hurt long term but the alkaline will if you don't remove it completely.
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    1000+ Posts BIGRR's Avatar
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    And after you hose the 205 engine off with water it will probably not go again for about a week!
    Present fleet:-
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    1000+ Posts dino's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BIGRR View Post
    And after you hose the 205 engine off with water it will probably not go again for about a week!
    No.... she ll be alright. i must have spent at least 1/2 hour blasting my 205 engine bay with water and it started first go... But I did cover the dizzy and filter pod with plastic bags before washing the sucker...

    If you have an alarm siren I suggest you wrap it up in plastic before washing... motortech degreaser is decent as well...


    cheers

    dino
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    1000+ Posts djvu205's Avatar
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    As peter said export works well. So does the kmart degreaser and its a foam style so hangs on better. The other thing i do is mix up a batch of hot soapy water using alot of laundry powder if you brush it on and work it into the grease it works well i finish it off with plain hot water to dilute any left overs. It doesnt hurt to use a pressure washer just dont spray the sensitive stuff directly. If your keen or need to take radiator out you can inspect and flush the system plus it gives alot better access to the front of the block and other areas too with the front off

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts Isis's Avatar
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    Thanks Peter and you other guys, I was also thinking that running the cars afterwards would quickly dry off the water, giving it no chance to settle anywhere. A pressure sprayer seems best because the volume of water is so much less.


    BTW Peter, I ended up shortening the gear linkage bracket myself OK, cutting and welding are in my narrow skills repertoire - great difference with the changes! Baker BM shift bushes etc also worth it.
    S3 205 GTI x 4 and getting lower
    1998 S1 Lotus Elise
    2013 Fiesta ST
    2014 Audi SQ5

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    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Diesel is the best, but comes with the obvious problems. So is Kerosene (that would be interesting).

    Export degreaser is almost as good. I use it and then attack stubborn stuff with a bit of kero directed from my compressor with a sprayer right at it. Rinse with Export degreaser again and then water. blow water out with compressed air everywhere and then start the car and drive it around a bit.

    If you have a pressure cleaner and a high pressure hot water system, hit it with hot water afterwards, that way the water will evaporate quicker. It does need to be properly hot though. If you have a compressor, you can use a bucket of boiling hot water to give it the final rinse. That'll blow cold water away and whatever is left will be hot enough to evaporate easily. Check spark plug holes when you're done and blow any water out with compressed air if you can.

    originally, the connectors on these cars were shielded in plastic? vinyl?, whatever, some sort of PVC sleeves with elastic ends, but I imagine most of them have been lost, destroyed or are just hanging on enough to trap water and dirt and mess up your electrics. Have a look see how yours are doing.
    Last edited by schlitzaugen; 23rd September 2016 at 03:00 PM.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

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    1000+ Posts Isis's Avatar
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    good stuff, thanks. I will report.
    S3 205 GTI x 4 and getting lower
    1998 S1 Lotus Elise
    2013 Fiesta ST
    2014 Audi SQ5

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    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by schlitzaugen View Post
    originally, the connectors on these cars were shielded in plastic? vinyl?, whatever, some sort of PVC sleeves with elastic ends, but I imagine most of them have been lost, destroyed or are just hanging on enough to trap water and dirt and mess up your electrics. Have a look see how yours are doing.
    English

    Capital at the start of a sentence please.
    Capital V for vinyl.
    No comma after a question mark.
    No need for a comma before "but" in this instance.
    You need either a comma, or preferably and, in the last sentence. ie ....look and see.....
    I could go on but I won't. It's a very poorly written paragraph.

    Additionally, the use of "eh" is inappropriate at the end of a sentence.
    Roland and Mi16 Man like this.

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    1000+ Posts lion5's Avatar
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    i showered with mototech degreaser once, it works really well
    (dead serious)
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    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
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    I try to degrease my engine when it's still quite hot (I leave it for about 10 minutes after running) so that the water evaporates well.

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    1000+ Posts Isis's Avatar
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    Just been to Supersh!t auto. Their sca brand in a large can is $4 at the moment. It's supposed to be as good as Export.

  13. #13
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    The Export degreaser usually goes down to about 1.6$ per can if you're patient, usually around the 2$ mark. Every now and then stores are pretty much chucking them out. That is when I buy it by the dozen and boy do they get a workout.

    I once spilled an entire container of used oil on my white trousers. Took them off, put a couple of cans of Export degreaser on and chucked them in the machine. Came out squeaky clean. No bull. I expected they were gone. Old oil in the driveway (concrete) comes out nicely too.

    Cleaning when the engine is hot is definitely effective, but I am a little bit more cautious since I noticed it's pretty difficult to find an original 205 exhaust manifold without cracks. Same for my (now gone) BMW engines. The Renault 12 and 17 never enjoyed such clemency.
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  14. #14
    1000+ Posts Isis's Avatar
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    Yep they had the small cans for $2 too

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    Dude, it's an engine bay. Oil is good, paint don't matter, polish is for bodywork. Water and engine bay don't work.

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    I actually am of the same philosophy, but when I have work to do around there, I want to get all the crap off first (especially when I change the oil, or I am trying to locate the source of an oil leak). After that, I don't care.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  17. #17
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    I want to pretend it's a honda for at least 6 minutes.

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    1000+ Posts Isis's Avatar
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    OK, for anyone else wanting to do this - all seems fine. I hit the engine bay with 3 cans of degreaser spray, gave obvious bits a scrub, hit it again, then used a high pressure spray to clean it off. I then ran the car for about 10 mins, with a fair bit of steam and some smoke burning off displaced gunk.
    S3 205 GTI x 4 and getting lower
    1998 S1 Lotus Elise
    2013 Fiesta ST
    2014 Audi SQ5

  19. #19
    COL
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    What I have used in the past is a Shell Teepol detergent (not sure which one it is in the range as its not in its original container) but it is yellow in colour.

    I just dilute it down with water and use in a pressure wash down gun, works a treat at getting grease and grime off. I then use just water to get rid of the detergent residue.
    Regards Col

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    You need to pay attention to drying out around the spark plugs - every easy for water to pool here and short out plugs

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    In a work situation and at home I would go over the sensitive bits with CRC or similar before using your choice of degreaser. Hose off, wipe over then CRC or equivalent on the fussy bits.
    To put a new look under the bonnet spray with Inox. Black plastic and radiator hoses come up a treat.
    Last edited by Wildebeest; 10th October 2016 at 01:24 PM. Reason: clearer description for Shlitz' benefit.

  22. #22
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    That CRC you use I think is an equivalent of WD40 I and a very good solvent for oily crap and gunk but a bit expensive compared to degreaser. There's also something called truck wash (green soapy stuff) that dissolves very well road grime. That stuff is very efficient on wheels. Dilutes with water. Spray on (high pressure washer), leave on a bit, hose off (they say it is biodegradable and best used on the lawn). Takes most of the grime off, but for a nice shiny finish you need a soft brush to get to the more stubborn stuff and in all the nooks and crannies.

    To deal with water I use compressed air on the sensitive bits and then just take the car for a quick drive.

    I have recommended a number of times silicone grease to protect electricals as well. Dow Corning make the good stuff which sticks on like the proverbial. Not soluble in anything, so don't get it on your hands or clothes because it is going to be there for a while. I filled up my connectors with it. Expensive but efficient.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

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