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  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! TassieExec's Avatar
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    Default Hymolmar

    Hi Folks

    I know there's been stuff posted on using Hymolar, but I would like to know if anyone has used it on the head gasket of the 505 2.2 litre motor and if so with what success?

    Regards
    Neil

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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Not on a 2.2 but many times on Xn 2.0. Always been good.
    The less one interacts with rude, ignorant, critical and argumentative members. The more peaceful life becomes.

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    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    There is only one product to use, ThreeBond 1211. You can even put in on your zits.

    '92 205 Mi16
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    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
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    Same as Rob.

    Those engines have other areas of concern.
    Not many, but you might like to explore them. For instance, they are an alloy block, aren't they ? Do up a head bolt too tight and it'll strip the thread in the block. This is what my mechanic had a whinge about one day. Not sure how often that happens, but they're not getting any younger...

    PS...If you ever need to remove Hylomar, just buy a bottle of nail polish remover from Coles or Woolworths for about $3.50.
    It contains acetone.

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beano View Post
    Same as Rob.

    Those engines have other areas of concern.
    Not many, but you might like to explore them. For instance, they are an alloy block, aren't they ? Do up a head bolt too tight and it'll strip the thread in the block. This is what my mechanic had a whinge about one day. Not sure how often that happens, but they're not getting any younger...

    PS...If you ever need to remove Hylomar, just buy a bottle of nail polish remover from Coles or Woolworths for about $3.50.
    It contains acetone.
    Painters "gun wash" or thinners work better and is cheaper in quantity.
    The less one interacts with rude, ignorant, critical and argumentative members. The more peaceful life becomes.

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    ThreeBond 1211 rubs off with your thumb. Stop living in the past.

    '92 205 Mi16
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  7. #7
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterT View Post
    ThreeBond 1211 rubs off with your thumb. Stop living in the past.
    I have to say I'm not fond of silicon RTV sealants for gasket sealing generally. They tend make disassembly very difficult because of extreme adhesion.

    I always shudder when I'm faced with an engine, that is exuding typically blue RTV from every sealing face.

    Especially steel sumps which I've seen bent during removal.


    Thanks for the advice, however, I'll "stick" with what I know, ie, Hylomar for cylinder heads and aviation gasket cement for general use. Neither cure nor set hard and thus the items remain easily removable.

    And many time cork or paper gaskets can be reused, in an emergency.


    What is newer is not necessarily better.
    Last edited by robmac; 10th September 2016 at 07:38 PM.
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  8. #8
    1000+ Posts BIGRR's Avatar
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    The Pug books say to put head gaskets on dry, that will do me!
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  9. #9
    COL
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterT View Post
    There is only one product to use, ThreeBond 1211. You can even put in on your zits.
    http://www.suimportracing.com/images...-Tech-Data.pdf
    Regards Col

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    COL
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    Quote Originally Posted by TassieExec View Post
    Hi Folks

    I know there's been stuff posted on using Hymolar, but I would like to know if anyone has used it on the head gasket of the 505 2.2 litre motor and if so with what success?

    Regards
    Neil
    I have not used it on this particular engine but have had success on an old Mitsubishi engine but that was about 35 years ago.
    Regards Col

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  11. #11
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by COL View Post
    I have not used it on this particular engine but have had success on an old Mitsubishi engine but that was about 35 years ago.
    And it's probably still running fine.

    Trades these days are impotent in their tasks without a tube of silicon, to fill up or hide their mistakes.
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  12. #12
    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    Yep.......

    '92 205 Mi16
    '90 Mi16x4

  13. #13
    COL
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac View Post
    And it's probably still running fine.

    Trades these days are impotent in their tasks without a tube of silicon, to fill up or hide their mistakes.
    The Hylomar was used to fix this thing so it held together long enough to be traded in on something that didn't continuously break down.

    The letters in Mitsubishi could be re-arranged to describe this car aptly.
    Regards Col

    1973 Renault R12 Station Wagon
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  14. #14
    Tadpole
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    If Hylamar does not cure or set hard,how does it hold back a compression pressure of some 1200 kpa. That appears to be some magic liquid. I am with BIGRR, put it on dry

  15. #15
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
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    Hylomar blue works the same way all non setting adhesives work by having a tenacious hold onto the surfaces and a thin film which seals surface imperfections.

    Hylomar Universal Blue gasket and jointing compound, non-setting sealant, Hylomar gasket jointing compounds , PL32/H ( heavy) , PL/HC (heavy), PL32/M (medium) hylomar universal blue

    For head gaskets I use the spray tin version, because it's easier apply an even film.

    To each his own, but some of the engines I've worked on are none too flash on head nor block surfaces and hylomar on the gasket is the braces along with the belt. And gives some peace of mind when the engine parts are 40 years odd old. And the head has nothing more to machine off it.

    The only time I don't use hylomar is on ACL "monotorque" head gaskets. Which are few and far between for French engines anyway.

    In spite of the claim of "better sealants" I've used Hylomar Universal Blue successfully for 30 years.
    Last edited by robmac; 10th September 2016 at 10:52 PM.
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  16. #16
    Fellow Frogger! TassieExec's Avatar
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    Thanks for all of your replies, I know that the manual says put them on dry, however having owned these cars for many years and having rebuilt a number of engines in them, my experience is that despite having heads machined and taking meticulous care, it's very difficult to stop these head gaskets leaking for any long period. This is also supported by many others experience that I'm aware of, so I think I'll give the Hymolar a try.
    Regards
    Neil

  17. #17
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    I too have used Hylomar for many years, tho' not on head gaskets,these are normally fitted to dry,oil free and clean metal faces, the head gasket is a carrying medium the locates the "vellies" which are folded high pressure rings that seal the oil/water ways ,combustion chambers between the head and block.
    The vellies and the material have an amount of compression designed to seal the head to block,when this is reached the gasket goes no further. Turbo engines can use nitrogen filled copper rings with the head and block machined in circular grooves to with stand big pressures -very expensive operation!
    Sealing the oil way to the rocker gear has always been a head ache to engine designers,probably the best fix is an oil pipe from the block to head ,this causes expense in manufacture ,pipe fracture with age etc..Toyota and Nissan have used brass sleeves with a flange carrying a viton O ring moulded for the flange sitting in the head gasket but separate in the gasket kit,a good fix but fiddly in assembly,and often forgotten in repair reassembly - ask me how I know!
    With my own engines these days [with more spare time] I would be inclined the make up small sleeve - counter bore block and head, the depth of these would drilled/machined short enough to give some crush.
    Re Hylomar it was developed to seal metal to metal in Rolls Royce [and others -- later Hewland] so it works BUT all surfaces MUST be clean and dry,I use carby clean let it dry ,just before applying Hylomar which is then spread with a flat scraper in a thin layer,I did my 505 BA7/5 a few years ago its as dry as a bone - frankly I didn't expect Hylomar to be that good in a troublesome to seal gearbox,I used Viton seals as well.
    Another head sealing problem can be brought on from a source you would not consider , - that is when cylinder heads or blocks are surface ground you should - if you can check on the type and age of the grinders being used ,including maintenance if possible.
    Grinders like the old big dished cutting wheel ones that Repco made ,got slack in a big Acme thread that controlled the stone height -they wore slightly,probably from the abrasive dust,those that had a concertina seal split so same happens.
    The wheel swings across the head "jumps" up on it [that is taking up the small amount of play in the Acme thread] -- it machines the middle flat then the heel of the wheel "falls" off the head at the other end ,then you have head that looks flat - except its ramped slightly fore and aft,so all heads should be accurately miked before and after. Same if the head is milled and the gibs in the mill have play but not quite as bad. If you have a divot at the front or back of a Mini or Peugeot head that's where the oil ways under pressure are.
    More about Silastic ugh! type stuff another time,sorry to be long winded but that's me
    Last edited by broomy; 11th September 2016 at 03:22 PM.
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  18. #18
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    Hylomar used to be known as Rolls Royce jointing compound way back in the day. If it was good enough for Rollers then it'll do me just fine too. I certainly used enough of it over the years rebuilding jet engines.
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  19. #19
    sans witticism SLC206's Avatar
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    Yes, I've only ever used it work.

    We mainly used it for fuel and oil pipes for metal to metal joints without a gasket.
    Regards,

    Simon

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