504 1973 diff; bolting back in wont go
  • Register
  • Help
Page 1 of 2 12 Last
Results 1 to 25 of 42
Like Tree10Likes

Thread: 504 1973 diff; bolting back in wont go

  1. #1
    ccc
    ccc is offline
    Member ccc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    brisbane
    Posts
    114

    Default 504 1973 diff; bolting back in wont go

    Hi
    After disconnecting the rear of the torque tube from the diff and unbolting the diff from the vehicle.
    Have started re assembling.
    Have bolted the torque tube back to the diff ok.
    However, when attempting to thread in the 2 bolts to attach the diff to the vehicle again.
    The diff needs to move 3-5mm back towards the rear of the vehicle to line up with the threaded holes in the vehicle...
    thoughts?
    thanks

    Advertisement

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts Peter Chisholm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    SWOTR
    Posts
    3,630

    Default

    I've done this a number of times a very long time ago. I think I bolted the diff to the car first, with the torque tube in place but not bolted up, and then bolted the torque tube up.
    BIGRR likes this.

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Melbourne / Caulfield
    Posts
    19,211

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ccc View Post
    Hi
    After disconnecting the rear of the torque tube from the diff and unbolting the diff from the vehicle.
    Have started re assembling.
    Have bolted the torque tube back to the diff ok.
    However, when attempting to thread in the 2 bolts to attach the diff to the vehicle again.
    The diff needs to move 3-5mm back towards the rear of the vehicle to line up with the threaded holes in the vehicle...
    thoughts?
    thanks
    Check out the alignment of the TT to the body. You may need jack the front of engine.

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    3,144

    Default

    What you call "the threaded holes in the vehicle" are actually holes in the diff mounts, which are like rubber engine mounts, only much smaller. They go between the diff and body. There are 2 bolts holding each one to the body.....4 bolts in all. (Or are they nuts ? I can't remember). Loosen those bolts (not completely) to allow you to line up and tighten the bolts going through the diff. Then re-tighten them.

    Actually, I seem to remember there is an aluminium casing going between the body and the mounts. Undo the lower bolts, not the upper ones.
    Last edited by Beano; 13th January 2016 at 08:34 PM.

  5. #5
    ccc
    ccc is offline
    Member ccc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    brisbane
    Posts
    114

    Default

    thanks guys, will have a go tomorrow.

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    israel
    Posts
    822

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Beano View Post
    What you call "the threaded holes in the vehicle" are actually holes in the diff mounts, which are like rubber engine mounts, only much smaller. They go between the diff and body. There are 2 bolts holding each one to the body.....4 bolts in all. (Or are they nuts ? I can't remember). Loosen those bolts (not completely) to allow you to line up and tighten the bolts going through the diff. Then re-tighten them.

    Actually, I seem to remember there is an aluminium casing going between the body and the mounts. Undo the lower bolts, not the upper ones.
    Why should the mounts have moved?

  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    kilsyth (lower montrose) vic,
    Posts
    214

    Default

    .Hi ccc,
    your whole driveline,engine,gearbox,diff,are located/mounted by the two engine mounts up front and the two diff mount bolts sitting vertically into the aluminium threaded blocks which bolt to the rubber mounts at diff end.If you only have the rear of the car jacked up then its possible if the engine mounts are soft that the weight of the driveline has moved forward.I usually would sit diff into torque tube /tailshaft and start the torque tube nuts about 3or 4 turns and then fit the 2 diff bolts but not tightened,tighten torque tube nuts and then diff bolts.I hope this may clarify and not confuse the situation. jim
    BIGRR and peujohn like this.

  8. #8
    ccc
    ccc is offline
    Member ccc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    brisbane
    Posts
    114

    Default

    Need to bite the bullet and have another go to get the diff/torque tube seal out and replaced. Have checked the seal at the gearbox end and this also needs to be done.
    Have taken on board the previous posts tips. Any suggestions on how to do the job, including replacing the seal at the gearbox end of the TT also.
    thanks.
    ps! the offspring said he could have moved the diff away from the torque tube enough to access the seal, if the spare tyre carrier was removed.
    Last edited by ccc; 15th March 2016 at 08:32 PM.

  9. #9
    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    3,144

    Default

    I seem to recall that there is not quite enough room unless you undo a drive shaft at the wheel and then remove one drive shaft from one side of the diff.

    The reason is that in order to do the seal, you need to separate the prop shaft from the diff. And although you might think, upon looking at it, that there would be room once the spare tyre carrier is removed, there is not quite enough room. Which is irritating

  10. #10
    ccc
    ccc is offline
    Member ccc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    brisbane
    Posts
    114

    Default

    ah! thanks beano. Wonder if the engine crane could be used to pull the engine north to give the extra movement. Wonder how hard to access the front seal is.....

  11. #11
    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    3,144

    Default

    Radiator and fan are in the way. Also Engine mounts. Probably more work than removing drive shaft.
    It's actually quite easy to take out a drive shaft. Only one is necessary. No need to remove rear caliper. Just let it sit there loose. Better that way as you will not bend the metal brake pipe too much.
    And as far as I remember, you can let the disc just hang there too. Get some wire though to hold it up in place.


    Are you aware of how to remove a shaft ? You will need an 8mm socket with a 1/2 inch drive.... and a straight bit of an allen key you have cut off to about 2 inches long. This is to undo the rear hub. Access through the hole towards centre of disc. Turn it 1/4 turn to access each bolt.

    Then you'll need a large socket (is it 36 or 38 mm ?) with a 3/4 inch drive. You lock up the disc by putting a solid bit of metal into the hole you see in the middle. Then get a pipe on to the socket as a lever. You don't have to absolutely SWING on it.....it is possible to do it up TOO tight !

    Either that (the pipe and socket) or a rattle gun, anyway.


    Front seal is not a problem as I remember. Particularly if you have pulled the diff far enough back to get the prop shaft out of the way

  12. #12
    ccc
    ccc is offline
    Member ccc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    brisbane
    Posts
    114

    Default

    The 4 hub retaining bolts accessed thru the hole in the disc came out ok. Rather than undo the 36mm bolt on the end of the half shaft.
    Will undo the 2 long pivot bolts attaching the swing arm to the cross member. Have unbolted the brake line from the slave cylinder and collected about 500ml of light green fluid. This is the first time we have disassembled the rear of the car since having it up from
    Tassie. Might do this both sides and completely remove the diff from the car. Should make the front seal on the torque tube easier.

  13. #13
    1000+ Posts Peter Chisholm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    SWOTR
    Posts
    3,630

    Default

    Those pivot bolts can very difficult to remove and it isn't necessary if you've removed the drive shafts from the car. It might be worth your while to also replace the seals where the drive shafts enter the diff while your at it.
    ThanosK likes this.

  14. #14
    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    3,144

    Default

    CCC....In order to remove the diff completely, you don't have to remove the other drive shaft, or do anything to the other side. Trust me....I have done this operation many times.

    Just pull out one driveshaft from the diff, undo the 4 allen-headed bolts holding on the torque tube, and undo the diff mounts.

    Put something softish under the diff so it doesn't come out and drop on the floor (or your hand, suddenly). Then work it backwards and try to pull it off the prop shaft. You may need to use a pair of multigrips (with a rag or piece of leather to stop it marring the metal it grips) to lever out the prop shaft. This is because as it is on a very close-fitting spline, it may not come out easily unless you have it at exactly right angles to the diff.

    Pull diff sideways off the other drive shaft. Put a plastic bag over the end of the drive shaft. If it gets dirt on it at all, clean with a brush and a cleaner.

    When putting it all back together, it is essential that you put molybdenum grease on ALL splines.....even (apparently) the ones going into the diff (even though they are bathed in oil....I am told).

    I agree with Peter....the pivot bolts are difficult. I've only heard of one person doing it that way.

    And yes....renew the diff side seals.... also the front one too. They are cheap. Bearing places stock them. Get the number off the old ones, or take one in.

    PS....you will find it easier to make a gasket for the front of the diff, rather than buy one. It does not go directly against the torque tube....it goes between the diff and the separating plate in which the front seal is mounted. It's a plate about 1 cm thick, right on the very front of the diff..
    Last edited by Beano; 18th March 2016 at 09:15 PM.
    ThanosK likes this.

  15. #15
    ccc
    ccc is offline
    Member ccc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    brisbane
    Posts
    114

    Default

    With
    Just pull out one driveshaft from the diff, undo the 4 allen-headed bolts holding on the torque tube, and undo the diff mounts.
    Does the 36mm nut on the end of the half shaft need to be removed and the hub taken off the swing arm, to pull the diff end of the half shaft out of the diff? Or can the the 1/2 shaft be retracted from the diff after the 4 allen headed bolts at the end of the 1/2 shaft on the diff side are removed?
    In the quote above, '4 allen headed bolts holding on the torque tube' On the car they are hex nuts bolting the TT to the diff.

  16. #16
    Demannu-facturing! Demannu's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Menzies Creek
    Posts
    2,541

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ccc View Post
    With
    Just pull out one driveshaft from the diff, undo the 4 allen-headed bolts holding on the torque tube, and undo the diff mounts.
    Does the 36mm nut on the end of the half shaft need to be removed and the hub taken off the swing arm, to pull the diff end of the half shaft out of the diff? Or can the the 1/2 shaft be retracted from the diff after the 4 allen headed bolts at the end of the 1/2 shaft on the diff side are removed?
    In the quote above, '4 allen headed bolts holding on the torque tube' On the car they are hex nuts bolting the TT to the diff.
    To remove the half shaft you do not need to undo the 36mm nut - just remove the brake caliper, undo the 4 allen-head bolts holding the wheel bearing carrier to the swing-arm, and then slide the entire half shaft/hub/bearing/disc assembly out from the swing arm.

    The hub/bearing carrier is spigotted in quite firmly into the swing-arm, so you might need to give it a bump with a dead-blow hammer to free it. Usually there's also a bit of rust that's also not helping your cause. Don't hit the disk!!
    Scotty

    Melbourne - Dandenong Ranges

    1956 Peugeot 403 - 'Francois' - resto project

    1969 Peugeot 504 - 'Pascal' - daily driver project

    1970 Peugeot 404 Utility - 'Brutus' - resto project

    1978 Peugeot 604 - as yet unnamed - V6 on straight LPG

    1987 Peugeot 505 - as yet unnamed - project car

    1999 Peugeot 406 Coupé - 'Chloe' - 5 speed manual

    2011 Peugeot 3008 XTE HDi - 'Zoe' - hatchback on steroids

    2014 Peugeot RCZ - 'Remy'

    1999 Range Rover 4.6 HSE - 'Grover' - tow car

  17. #17
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    israel
    Posts
    822

    Default

    if the hub carrier doesn't come out easily, screw into it 2 long bolts from the backside of the arm, when they meet the disc they will push it out.

  18. #18
    ccc
    ccc is offline
    Member ccc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    brisbane
    Posts
    114

    Default

    thanks guys

  19. #19
    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    3,144

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ccc View Post
    In the quote above, '4 allen headed bolts holding on the torque tube' On the car they are hex nuts bolting the TT to the diff.
    OOPs ! You're right. They are allen-headed bolts on the front of the torque tube. But on the back they are hex.

  20. #20
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    kilsyth (lower montrose) vic,
    Posts
    214

    Default

    Hi ccc,
    Just to put a spanner in the works,i have removed 504 diffs without removing driveshafts.first drain diff oil,remove 4 torque tube nuts at diff,remove 2 allen key bolts vertically holding diff to mounts,release spare wheel carrier to fully open position,move diff back off torque tube while keeping tailshaft pushed fully forward,when diff is off tailshaft/torque tube rotate diff so that is upside down with pinionshaft facing spare wheel carrier,push diff fully to left against l/h driveshaft so it is fully compressed,now push diff upwards towards boot floor and fully compress r/hand driveshaft,push r/h side of diff upwards while pulling r/h d/shaft inner joint out of diff,carefull not to damage side seal (although I usually replace these anyway),drop r/h side of diff down to slide out of l/h d/shaft joint and all is clear and diff is out. just another way of removing diff. Jim
    BIGRR and Beano like this.

  21. #21
    1000+ Posts robmac's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Melbourne / Caulfield
    Posts
    19,211

    Default

    You can also refit the torque tube/prop shaft using a crow bar to lever the TT forward and another to lever the diff backwards.

    Not a method I'd use personally, but saving time is of primary importance for some "repairers" .

  22. #22
    Fellow Frogger!
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    kilsyth (lower montrose) vic,
    Posts
    214

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by robmac View Post
    You can also refit the torque tube/prop shaft using a crow bar to lever the TT forward and another to lever the diff backwards.

    Not a method I'd use personally, but saving time is of primary importance for some "repairers" .
    Hi robmac,
    totally agree with you as I never had a crowbar in my workshop and the method I described to remove diff involves car jacked up on safety stands and using hands and knees to move and support diff rotation/movements.Consequntly no large levering used,i guess after 46 years working in the automotive repair industry one gets a feel for working without causing unnecessary damage and removing parts unneccesarily,which savings can be passed on to customers. just a thought... Jim

  23. #23
    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    3,144

    Default

    ^ I think that method would also involve having really quite strong arms. Mine usually get tired during an ordinary diff removal and if things (like the prop shaft) get stuck, I start to curse from arm exhaustion

  24. #24
    ccc
    ccc is offline
    Member ccc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    brisbane
    Posts
    114

    Default

    504 1973 diff; bolting back in wont go-pic_0320_312.jpg504 1973 diff; bolting back in wont go-pic_0320_311.jpgSuccess! The disc and hub and 1/2 shaft came out with without too much trouble. just rocked the disc and it gradually loosened.
    will do the other side now and remove diff. Will make pulling the torque tube back to change the front seal at the gear box easier.
    Dont have any history of the car.. the wheel bearing has no play and is smooth. The 1/2 shaft boots a little cracked.
    Last edited by ccc; 20th March 2016 at 03:13 PM.

  25. #25
    1000+ Posts Peter Chisholm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    SWOTR
    Posts
    3,630

    Default

    Yes, it's not that difficult. A little time consuming, but not difficult.

Page 1 of 2 12 Last

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •