BE3 Gearbox Swap Questions
  • Register
  • Help
Results 1 to 4 of 4
Like Tree4Likes
  • 2 Post By Pug_405_Mi16
  • 1 Post By schlitzaugen
  • 1 Post By Wintermute

Thread: BE3 Gearbox Swap Questions

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! FedGrapes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Perth, WA

    Default BE3 Gearbox Swap Questions

    Hi everyone!

    I'm in the process of swapping the gearbox in the S16, and I've got a question regarding what needs to come out.

    Do I need to remove the drive shafts as described in the Haynes? Can I just pop them out of the diff, and leave everything else in situ? I don't have the tool they recommend for holding the hub in place while you do the centre. I also am not keen on finding new bolts if I don't have to.

    I have removed the starter, the battery (and accessories), and the air filter (and ducting etc). The intake manifold is off, and I'll redo all the vacuum hoses while stuff is out (half broke, anyway!)



  2. #2
    1000+ Posts Pug_405_Mi16's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2001



    I haven't done a 306, but have done several 405's and 205's which are essentially the same thing. Shafts have to come all the way out, not sure what bolts you need but you just need to get the hub nuts off (hard) and then undo the hockeystick bolts on the long shaft and then take the hubs off the struts to allow enough movement to get them out. I've changed the box without taking the subframe out but it takes a lot of jiggling.

    Good luck!
    FedGrapes and lion5 like this.
    1989 Peugeot 405 Mi16
    1990 Peugeot 505 GTD Turbo Wagon
    2000 Peugeot 306 XSI
    1973 Peugeot 504 GL

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    loneliness capital of the world


    On a 205 it's a PITA to do it like that.

    By the time you're done jiggling (and knocking) things about, you're better off dropping the engine and g'box on the deck and out by lifting and rolling the shell back. Even easier if you have a garage crawler to drop the whole thing on and slide it out from under the shell - still need to lift the shell a bit.

    You need to disconnect the callipers and hubs off the struts or the strut tops - whichever way you fancy - I just find it easier to leave the struts in the car.

    You have to disconnect the support bearing carrier from the subframe (leave attached to the block - you will have to disconnect it from the block later to take the g'box away, or you're in for some jiggling when lining up the new g'box - again a matter of taste). I don't like taking the subframe out because it messes with your steering alignment.

    You might need to disconnect the sway bar from the drop links and swing it out of the way.

    And of course, the gearshift linkages, tie rods, the lower suspension arms.

    And the g'box needs to be drained before you start anything, of course. But you knew that.

    I like to take everything off the engine before dropping the assembly. Like, really everything. Avoids damage from inevitable unforseen.
    Last edited by schlitzaugen; 20th December 2015 at 02:07 AM.
    FedGrapes likes this.

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! Wintermute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005


    Hi Fedgrapes! Having been through it, have a read through my experience!! 306 S16 gearbox removal

    Get the right size socket for the drive-shaft nuts! (I think it is 35mm I got 36mm and somewhat munged the nuts, pretty sure the right size is in the thread)... Anything that looks like you might need to take it off do it!!

    The cable tray that runs over the gearbox is an absolute PITA.

    Take many photos as you go!

    DO drop the rear of the subframe down a few cm when you get to removing the box, it WILL make your life a whole lot easier!! (You only need to undo the bolt on the left from memory and don't take it all the way out, just lower the subframe on that side down a few CM, it makes a big difference! PeterT recommended it to me, and I didn't do it at first as I was worried about alignment, but in the end I did it and wished I'd done it earlier. No issues with misaligning either.

    DO have two people to take it out and put it back in!!

    Anyway hopefully reading through my experience may help you to avoid some of the problems!

    edit: DO take not of cav91's post #6 in my above linked thread about the 11mm nuts!
    from memory I dropped the ball joints from the struts so that I could manouver the drive shaft out, but it may be easier to remove the ball joint from the suspension arm (though that might be what you are talking about with new nuts/bolts.)....

    Last edited by Wintermute; 20th December 2015 at 09:38 AM.
    FedGrapes likes this.
    306 S16 1995 black
    Morris 1100 1965 green

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts