Lock my ride
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Thread: Lock my ride

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! dhaw's Avatar
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    Default Lock my ride

    306 central locking playing up. The joys of an old car. Just when you get the rear beam and brakes brand new something else goes on the fritz. Drivers door won't lock with remote. If I sit in the car and manually push the knob or use the key then all locks work. Does this suggest the door's solenoid needs replacing as opposed to a wiring problem in the door loom? Tah.

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  2. #2
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    I don't think you can tell - the door closed & lock status sensors must be working OK, or the doors would immediately unlock. It could be the locking solenoid, or the 12v supply that activates it . What about unlocking?

    Cheers

    Alec

  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! dhaw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Armidillo View Post
    I don't think you can tell - the door closed & lock status sensors must be working OK, or the doors would immediately unlock. It could be the locking solenoid, or the 12v supply that activates it . What about unlocking?

    Cheers

    Alec
    No, won't remote unlock either.

  4. #4
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    That might be a useful clue!

    On my 406 there are 2 wires carrying 12v briefly during lock/unlock procedure (the wires to the sensors carry a much lower voltage all the time). I assume that one activates 'lock', the other 'unlock'. Since the chance that both 12v wires are broken, but that your signal/sensor wires are OK, seems 'remote' (pun intended!), then I think you are looking at a lock actuator issue.

    If you can attach a Diagbox/PP2000 diagnostic system, you might be able to confirm that the computer is correctly sensing whether the doors are open/closed & locked/unlocked, and you should be able to trigger lock/ unlock signals from the computer, which might help confirm.

    Either way, to resolve the problem you are going to have to get the trim off the inside of the door. Once you've done that, you can make sure the connection of the plug to the door lock actuator is good (some problems are that simple!), and check voltages at the plug. Apart from the earth wire, there will be 2 other wires (& if yours has nine wires to the actuator there may be more ) that appear to carry zero volts. Recheck those when you press the remote (try both lock & unlock) - you should get a transient voltage <= 12v (suspect an analog volt meter might be better than a digital one for this, but digital works) on either lock or unlock.

    Cheers

    Alec

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! dhaw's Avatar
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    Preciate the input Alec. I was thinking a diagnostic tool might be to open both trims and try the passenger solenoid on the drivers side..... I'm in country and haven't access to my multimeter at the moment! Will a wet finger work?

  6. #6
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    I'm no expert, but have spent a lot of time in recent months understanding & diagnosing remote locking problems in our 406, so am pleased if what I learnt (very slowly) can help someone else.

    Don't think the wet finger would be sensitive enough to detect the differing voltages - I would suggest using your tongue (works a treat with little 9 volt batteries - I can easily pick a good one from a flat one ).

    Great idea about using the passenger side actuator - I believe it will work (for diagnostic purposes), as the connector plugs should be the same, and the computer can't tell the difference between a LH & a RH actuator! Personally I would be trying to avoid dismantling 2 doors, but the only alternative appears to be to get a known good actuator from somewhere else...

    Cheers

    Alec
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  7. #7
    Fellow Frogger! dhaw's Avatar
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    Got the door interior off. Twice.. first time took half an hour to get it off.Second time 10 minutes to take it off and put it back on! (I misaligned the top rail..doh! )
    Sadly was unable to diagnose and fix any faults....

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