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Thread: Kooti

  1. #1
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    Default Kooti

    Hi All

    I have 1984 505 Executive 2.2 Fuel injected. I have an engine oil leak which i am finding very difficult to locate. it seems to be coming from under exhaust manifold & only when engine is running. engine not useing very much oil but has a lot of back pressure when i remove the oil filer cap from rocker cover. any ideas or suggestions "other than scrap it" would be appreciated.

    I have two helpfull replies to my problem, would retentioning the head have any affect on my oil leak? as the vehicle is running well, I don't realy want to take the head off as it would probably mean refreshing the bottom end at the same time.


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  2. #2
    1000+ Posts Peter Chisholm's Avatar
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    Wouldn't the pressure when removing the oil filler cap indicate that crankcase ventilation is blocked?

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    Fellow Frogger! gromzx's Avatar
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    you don't need to remove the head to retention. you just undo and retention one bolt at a time. Whether the cam and/or rocker gear needs to be removed, I don't know, and that is were the difficulty will be.

    Make sure that it is leaking from the head gasket before proceeding.
    If it is leaking from the head gasket, then I definitely recommend a retention as the first course of action because it has a good chance of success assuming there is no other underling cause.

    Also I agree that you should check the crank case ventilation, as it sounds like there is a blockage.

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts Pug_405_Mi16's Avatar
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    Hello,

    I've had very little success with retensioning the heads on these to fix the oil leak from the rear of the head. I would suggest fixing it though and not leaving as they just get worse and worse, the wagon that I'm driving now was leaking so badly when I got it, it would leak nearly 2 litres per week.

    Also, I wouldn't be too stressed about the bottom end, they live a long life, the wagon I recently did has done 360,000k's and the bottom end is as solid as a rock.

    Good luck with it.
    Ben
    1989 Peugeot 405 Mi16
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  5. #5
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    it is common for oil to leak from the head gasket at rear, exhaust side ,

    it is quite difficult to see , recommend you use a mirror on a stick,

    I had head surfaced and new gasket fixed it

    there is several layers of metal in the rocker cover that become clogged up, restricting the crank case breathing.

    we carefully drilled a 12mm hole thru all but one layer from the inside and that stopped the oil coming out the dipstick at revs 350.009ks!!

  6. #6
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    As Ben said. And pray it's crankcase ventilation.
    It's worth checking the rocker cover ventilation route by giving it a really good clean inside the cover. Much is not visible and if you find gluggy oil then you'll need to soak it at least overnight and then give the inside a really good clean, using air if you can.
    With a number of rocker covers I've had the oil has been cooked making the cover much harder to clean. Let's hope yours isn't!!
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    Fellow Frogger! TassieExec's Avatar
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    Hi

    I agree with all the comments above re rocker cover and bottom end, although I have had some success in cleaning out the rocker cover, takes a bit of time and perseverance. re the bottom end , as I reported not long ago in regard to my engine rebuild at 513.00 K/lm, I measured the crankshaft and it was still within factory tolerances, so was able to fit standard bearings

    Regards
    Neil

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    Thanks to all, what a great site! i appreciate all the comments and avce. I think this weekend will be a rocker cover removal and clean plus re-tention of the head.
    while i am on line i have another issue some one maybe able to advise me on. There is a a vacuum tube runs from the rocker cover to the intake manifold, it connects under and behind the accelerator cable unit. My question, i am unable to blow through the pipe, so i am guessing it is blocked. very difficult position to get at to clean. someone with more knowledge than me may be able to help. I am i supposed to be able to blow through this tube, or is there a valve inside intake manifold stopping me? any advice to fix would be appreciated.

  9. #9
    Fellow Frogger! TassieExec's Avatar
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    Hi

    Yes you should be able to blow through it, no valve, you could well find that all of the vacuum outlets under the cylinder head are blocked and it's important that they are clear. the ideal way to clean them is by removing the intake manifold and cleaning the whole manifold out once you split the intake chamber. however you can split the intake chamber by removing the throttle body, then undoing the bolts that hold the chamber together using a small socket from underneath the chamber.

    Regards
    Neil

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    Thanks Neil, as mine is severly lacking I appreciate you sahring your knowledge. looks like it will be a long weekend under the bonnet.

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    Thanks Peter, i have removed the oil filler cap when engine is runnng and there is a lot of blowback pressure. engine not using much oil at all. Cheers James

  12. #12
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    Good luck. Many of us are interested to see what comes of your activities!
    1998 Peugeot 406 D8SV Manual
    1999 Peugeot 406 D8ST Auto
    2002 Peugeot 406 D9SV Manual
    1994 Peuegot 306 N3 Cabriolet Manual
    1994 Peugeot 306 XR N3 Hatch
    1995 Peugeot 505 GTI executive
    1976 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Now sold

    Over 60 Pugs in my time
    Gerry Mullock

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    Thanks, yes back of the head under exhaust seems to be where leak is coming from, i have purchased a telescopic camera "Cheep one on Ebay" Hope it works!! if it does it may help finding the leak. thankfully I dont have any leaks from dipstick.

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    Default Kooti

    Hi again, my 505 seems to have more hits than Elvis Presly and more leaks than parliment house. adds to the character i guess. it drives well though.

  15. #15
    1000+ Posts Peter Chisholm's Avatar
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    Apart from altruistic reasons, some of us have a keen interest because we might face the same problem one day.

  16. #16
    Fellow Frogger! TassieExec's Avatar
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    Hi

    Glad we have been able to help, I'm assuming the you have a workshop manual? If not then, there are some critical things that you will need to know like, Head tensioning sequence, Torque settings for the head and valve clearances, also handy to know that on your Peugeot, the cylinders are numbered from No 1 at the flywheel end to No 4 at the water pump end. If you don't have the manual or would like further information let me know, also you almost certainly will need a rocker cover gasket.

    Regards
    Neil

  17. #17
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    Default Yet Another Ignorant New 505 Owner.

    Hi All, have been following Kooti's thread with interest as am a pretty virginal 505 owner myself (1984 STi auto).
    It has a few minor issues but is a joy to drive and is otherwise in A1 original condition.....not too sure about these K Tronic injection systems though!
    Keep up the good work Kooti as you're not the only one learning much!
    Cheers.
    DeeCee.

    PS: Meanwhile the '56 203 project restorer is coming along nicely.......at least I know what I'm doing there (sorta!)

  18. #18
    Fellow Frogger! dhaw's Avatar
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    If you are a modern 505 owner try a smart phone on a selfie stick turned around!

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    Thanks Neil. Your information about timing solves a mystery for me. Some time back i had a new water pump timing belt, tentioner and cam and crankshaft seal replaced. not long after i took my car for a drive and the number one spark plug blew out, the one at the the gearbox end. I gues i don't reall need to say that it gave me an awfully big scare, especially the continuing noise after the initial bang, I am guessing the mechanic removed the plug to check TDC and never tightened it properly afterward. A new plug screwed straight in with out any further problems "other than my paranoia that is"
    I now keep checking the plug to make sure it is tight before each outing.
    Obtaining a Rocker cover gaskets seems to be an issue, any suggestions would be a great help.
    Cheers James

  20. #20
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    Hi James

    Good to hear that there was no damage to the spark plug thread, try Lewin at Peugeot Spares in Brisbane on 07 3345 448, also meant to mention that of course you will need gaskets if you do take the inlet manifold of, Lewin should have those as well, do you have a workshop manual?

    Regards
    Neil

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    Thanks, will call them before i pull it apart.
    Cheers James

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    Sorry, I meant to tell you i have a Haynes workshop manual however it is not as informative on some things as I would like. thats why I appreciate this site. there is a wealth of knowledge out there.
    Cheers James

  23. #23
    Fellow Frogger! TassieExec's Avatar
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    Hi James

    You are absolutely right about the Haynes manual, they leave stuff out and often seem to assume that people know stuff, eg you need to slacken the tension of each head bolt individually and then retention it before doing the next one, failure to do so can lead to a cracked block, as I learnt to my dismay, they also get stuff wrong, for example you will find the Haynes manual gives you a tension of 70 Ft/lbs. whereas the factory manual says 74 Ft/lbs. which I would recommend. I have just spoken to Lewin and found out that he will not be available very much for the next two weeks, but will respond to a message asap, so you could also try EAI in Victoria on 03 9899 6683 or Welsh autos in Victoria on 03 9890 9061 if you can't get Lewin.

    Regards
    Neil

  24. #24
    Fellow Frogger! TassieExec's Avatar
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    Hi Dee Cee

    Don't get too stressed about the K Jectronic system, because despite what some say they are a fairly simple system which is pretty reliable once sorted and were widely used in many cars, the basic things to do are to check all vacuum hoses to make sure that they are in good condition and the holes are clear in the intake chamber. the next thing is to check the additional air valve sitting on the thermostat housing, this is easy to test and even clean and adjust. The warm up regulator is one of the common problems and critical as it controls fuel pressure when warm and hot, the best bet is get an exchange one, usually for around $200. The other thing you can do is to remove the fuel distribution valve along with the chamber its mounted on and split the chamber, then thoroughly clean the leaver and plate unit. this plate needs to move vary freely with a gentle shake of the unit, DO NOT TRY TO DISMANTLE THE FUEL DISTRIBUTION UNIT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, as these again need to be serviced through an exchange, but they are very reliable and seldom give trouble. Also any tuning needs to be done in small steps on both the Allen key adjustment on top of the fuel distribution unit and the idle speed adjustment under the passenger side of the air intake chamber, in fact a quick response to small changes is a good indicator of the system being in tune. The injectors may need to be replaced on a high mileage vehicle but they are also pretty reliable.

    Regards
    Neil

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    Hi Neil, thanks for all that info. while i have you with the keyboard ot your fingertips i would like to ask, do you know much about 2003 Pug 206? i am looking at one for my daughter, its manual petrol with 148000 Ks, one oner always service an garaged, they were offered a terrible trade in price. i can pick it up for a song. any advice would be of great value.
    Cheers James

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