505 SR temperature sensor wire
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  1. #1
    Member colj00's Avatar
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    Default 505 SR temperature sensor wire

    hi its me again, yes im still here

    those of you who remember, i had a problem getting my 505 running after fiddling with the engine but alas yesterday she fired into life, im not quite sure still why it refused to run but after cleaning the dizzy terminals, changing spark plugs and advancing the ignition, it starts and runs great.

    got a few more niggly things i need to sort, first off.

    which wire goes onto the temperature sensor(?) on the bottom of the thermostat housing?

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    also after running it for a few minutes i noticed the top radiator hose is very hot (i can hold it, just) yet the bottom one is pretty much room temperature (30c) i replaced the water pump but not the thermostat however the car was running fine and did not overheat when i got it

    thanks in advance
    Current fleet:

    Toyota Yaris 2007
    Ford Falcon EL wagon 1996
    Nissan NX 1993

    Previous:

    Peugeot 505 SR 1985
    Nissan pulsar 1998
    Nissan pulsar 2000
    Toyota Corolla 1990

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
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    Just went out and looked at my own SR

    You should be able to spot the wire which goes to it. It comes out of a cluster of other wires just under and behind the alternator. It will be the one which has a small loop connector at the end of it. It is a white (or very light-coloured) wire, sheathed in a black cover except for the very end couple of centimetres. So you will only see the white bit at the very end.

  3. #3
    Member colj00's Avatar
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    thanks beano, temp sensor works fine now. i had that wire grounded to my alternator for some reason.
    Current fleet:

    Toyota Yaris 2007
    Ford Falcon EL wagon 1996
    Nissan NX 1993

    Previous:

    Peugeot 505 SR 1985
    Nissan pulsar 1998
    Nissan pulsar 2000
    Toyota Corolla 1990

  4. #4
    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
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    Good. However you still have a possible cooling problem, which is not good.


    With a hot upper hose only, one might suspect that it is being heated by the tiny amount of coolant getting through from a defective, almost closed thermostat.
    In fact, that is the first thing I would check.

    Less likely :
    You haven't put a stocking in the top of the radiator, have you ? It's an old trick people use with 504s, to filter out grit, but does not work with 505s for some reason. They have a different kind of radiator....it's cross-flow. It tends to impede the coolant flow. I tried.

    Had any work done on the radiator recently ?
    There is a baffle inside which separates it into lower and upper sections. This may have come adrift.

  5. #5
    Member colj00's Avatar
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    hm, no i haven't done anything to filter the grit... i flushed my radiator with water for a few minutes until barely any flakes came out, it flows fine, and it doesn't rattle or anything. must be the thermostat i suppose? would it hurt to run without a thermostat until i get a new one?

    oh another thing i noticed, the battery light on the dash illuminates when its running. i did some googling and it seems the alternators bad which would explain why the battery was dead when i bought her.
    Current fleet:

    Toyota Yaris 2007
    Ford Falcon EL wagon 1996
    Nissan NX 1993

    Previous:

    Peugeot 505 SR 1985
    Nissan pulsar 1998
    Nissan pulsar 2000
    Toyota Corolla 1990

  6. #6
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    battery light can shine if the wires aren't connected properly, not necessarily a defective alternator.

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts Beano's Avatar
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    Correct. I believe the same light comes on if other things happen. It may not be the alternator. Get someone with a multimeter (and who knows how to use it) to test the output.

    When I bought my previous 505....a GR, almost immediately the alternator packed it in. Rather than go to an auto electrician, I took off the regulator and replaced the graphite brushes. Total cost $15 (in 1998) and it was still going strong ten years later when I sold it. You will, however, need a small butane torch to solder them in place.....or a very heavy amperage soldering iron.

    It's not possible to run without a thermostat. The little rubber seal will not seal at all and coolant will get out. The seal needs a thin metal ring inside it to keep it expanded outwards (not to mention being the right thickness).

    You can do it though if you know how. When I want to run without one, I use an old thermostat that has the guts ripped out of it. It won't hurt to run without a thermostat for a while if you use that scenario.
    Last edited by Beano; 28th September 2015 at 08:26 PM.

  8. #8
    Member colj00's Avatar
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    hey,

    turns out the thermostat works (did the kettle test) and i just wasn't running it long enough, i did a full heat cycle this morning and both hoses get about the same temperature now at idle. i can confirm my alternators buggered, the alternator was making 11.7 volts when it idles and it died after 10ish minutes of running from not being able to produce spark, checked the battery and it was sitting at around 10 volts.
    Current fleet:

    Toyota Yaris 2007
    Ford Falcon EL wagon 1996
    Nissan NX 1993

    Previous:

    Peugeot 505 SR 1985
    Nissan pulsar 1998
    Nissan pulsar 2000
    Toyota Corolla 1990

  9. #9
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    In my country mechanics advise to remove the thermostat in xm/xn engines, because it creates pressure on the cylinder head, and my car didn't have one when i bought it, but it does have one now.

  10. #10
    Member colj00's Avatar
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    hm that is interesting, is it because of the climate perhaps?
    Current fleet:

    Toyota Yaris 2007
    Ford Falcon EL wagon 1996
    Nissan NX 1993

    Previous:

    Peugeot 505 SR 1985
    Nissan pulsar 1998
    Nissan pulsar 2000
    Toyota Corolla 1990

  11. #11
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    don't know...

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