307 2.0 HDi - Coolant Water leak
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  1. #1
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    Default 307 2.0 HDi - Coolant Water leak

    So the week after I fix the failed earth connector on the LHS rear light cluster. I notice pool of water under the engine - coolant.

    Mrs Whippet informs me that she needs her car this week - well surprise surprise!!!

    Anyway put car up on stands, remove the lower plastic engine tray, try to see up between engine and bulkhead. cannot see to locate source of dripping. Seems to be collecting and concentrating from above the pressed aluminum heat shields, but virtually impossible to get hands, arm up in there anyhow I try. Don't know how I am going to fix when I do locate the source!!!

    So this morning I purchase a CAM INSPECTION BUDGET USB 7M FLEX | Installer | CCTV & Surveillance Monitors | CCTV & Surveillance | PRODUCTS | QC3374 | Jaycar Electronics mini USB camera. Beewdy! I will locate this leak easily, will also be useful for future use. Plug it into my laptop, run with supplied Webcam VideoCap software and comes up with an error. Same on two other laptops. Seems that I cant resolve this just at the moment. Error window: CamApp, Video Capture Tool, Time Version has stopped working.

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    Anyway has anyone experienced a coolant leak on these vehicles. As far as I can see it is originating from higher up the engine. It is dripping about 1 drop every 10 seconds - unpressurised. I suspect heater hoses, or connecting hoses. I have used a torch from above and below but see to cannot locate the source. I have got my arm in behind from above and can't feel anything wet. Really need my video camera operating!!!

  2. #2
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    As well as heater pipes, check out the outlet box behind the engine above the transmission. It has as many connections as Central Station. You should be able to feel and look at this from above. Another possibility hidden behind the engine is the coolant system for the turbocharger.


    PS The DW10B engine has a water cooled EGR behind the head.
    Last edited by seasink; 14th March 2015 at 08:31 PM. Reason: ps

  3. #3
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    Take all plastic trays out - drive it around without it then come back to a clean dry ground and wait for the drip then directly above from the leak - look around that area - Ive done that a few times with hard to find leaks.
    Cheers
    AP

  4. #4
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    Hi. USB endoscope camera wouldn't work in the USB3 port, wouldn't work in the adjacent USB2 port, but low & behold it works in the other USB2 port around the back, What the ??

    Anyway, the camera has an adjustable LED intensity, and I found the image fairly dull and grainy. I think it would work much better if I could get a fluro tube in behind the engine with more spread out lighting. I had a good poke around but I am disappointed with the USB video camera, I found if difficult to control and work out where it is pointing etc.

    My weekend for diagnosis is about exhausted, have a function to attend this afternoon. Looks like I might have to visit the local pugworkshop mechanic (not dealer) and get it repaired. Remember Mrs Whippet needs her vehicle to go to Geelong this Thursday, and I wont be in town.

  5. #5
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    Hi - Does anybody have an exploded parts view of the rear of the engine? It is the long pipe along the length of the rear of the engine and inserts into a "block" at the cam belt end. Leaking at that joint.

  6. #6
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    That lump in the block casting is the water pump housing. The pump is driven by the cam belt. The long pipe goes up to the water outlet at the back of the head over the transmission.

    Be thankful it's accessible.


    PS In the DW10B the joint is an O ring.
    Last edited by seasink; 16th March 2015 at 09:10 PM. Reason: ps

  7. #7
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    Hi Seasink - Really appreciate your confirmation. I didn't do the diagnosis myself so have not sighted the described components. So you identification makes sense.

    Also have not had a chance to drop into the local dealership to view their part diagrams.

    May I indulge you and ask how the other end of the water pipe is connected? Is it a hose?

    I would assume that an O-ring that has become hard and lost it resilience, would just weep. I am concerned the rate of leaking might be indicative of more extended corrosion of the O-ring grove (I assume in the water pump housing) and/or corrosion on the metal tubing (unsure what material this is fabricated from).

    Thinking what to do....???. I will be away for work until the weekend, but need to get the vehicle on the road again.

    I might try and order an O-ring and assume a hose (for other end) and disassemble and see what happens on the weekend.

  8. #8
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    From memory there's a hoseclip at the water box end, but don't take my word, put your hand in there and feel for it. If it's leaked for yonks the groove in the cast iron might be corroded, but it shouldn't be too bad if it's recent.

    Manufacturers like these push-in O ring joints because there's a bit of flex, which makes assembly quicker.

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