505 cool air
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Thread: 505 cool air

  1. #1
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    Default 505 cool air

    It's taken me a year but finally I have my 505 GTI registered. [series 2]
    It has to be the best Peugeot I've driven.
    But as the aircon isn't working it gets a bit warm after about 3 hours driving on a warm day.
    I just can't seem to find a way to get fresh outside air running through the cabin.
    There's a switch under the bonnet that stops hot water circulating through the heater. Sadly this doesn't stop the heater from getting hot as it just accumulates heat from one end, so any time you put the fan on you'll get warm to hot air through any selected vent. It looks pretty tight in there to fit another isolator switch to the other heater hose but maybe that would help.
    Trouble is as I see it that when the fan is on it passes air over the heater before it gets into the cabin.
    Wide open windows aren't cool enough when you get all this heat from the dash. Is aircon the only solution or has someone done a clever mod to bring that fresh air into the cab as you move?
    I can't see the 505 having enough room anywhere to introduce a fresh air inlet unless it came from the plastic grill just below the windscreen. Maybe a lift up vent there might funnel air the right way?

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  2. #2
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    The default setting for the heater tap is 'on', so if it isn't working the heater will be receiving hot water and therefore slowly heat the cabin. The usual solution assuming you don't want to pay for a second hand replacement tap (I once paid $120 for a unit that lasted 6 months) is to plumb a manual tap into the heater pipe instead. My cars now have cool air via the dash vents - the only drama is having to open the bonnet to turn on the heat when you need it. Being in the sub tropics I can just have the tap slightly open all the time in winter. In summer demisting can be done with the air-con, which, to return to your question, is the icing on the 505GTI cake as far as I'm concerned, if you can get it working - such a civilised car!
    Goonengerry 505


  3. #3
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    don't know about mk2, but in mk1 warm air goes out only to the windscreen and/or legs, and you can shot off those vents. the air that comes out of the front vents doesn't pass through the heater.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by thomevans View Post
    The default setting for the heater tap is 'on', so if it isn't working the heater will be receiving hot water and therefore slowly heat the cabin. The usual solution assuming you don't want to pay for a second hand replacement tap (I once paid $120 for a unit that lasted 6 months) is to plumb a manual tap into the heater pipe instead. My cars now have cool air via the dash vents - the only drama is having to open the bonnet to turn on the heat when you need it. Being in the sub tropics I can just have the tap slightly open all the time in winter. In summer demisting can be done with the air-con, which, to return to your question, is the icing on the 505GTI cake as far as I'm concerned, if you can get it working - such a civilised car!
    I did the same fix for a mates car.

    I used one these:
    NEW Water Solenoid Electric Valve FOR Water AIR N C 12V DC 1 2" Gravity Feed | eBay

    And fitted a discreet switch inside the car.

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    It's not only the 505 that this problem applies to. A friend's 306 has it's heater permanently on. The temporary fix is a blocked hose to the heater (blocked by a tyre vulcaniser tool)
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    Over 60 Pugs in my time
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  6. #6
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    Yeah thanks guys. You see this car already has the under bonnet manual switch on the heater pipe so I'm guessing it isn't turning off the flow.
    Having assumed it was working I further assumed that merely blocking one pipe wasn't enough to cut out the heat, thinking the whole system would eventually heat up anyway. But perhaps the answer is that the switch is letting water flow through instead of cutting it off properly.
    Robmac, as usual you come up with great solutions. I'll look into that link for sure.[PS, I just bought one, so cheap, now need to get adaptive fittings.]
    Hot air definitly comes out of the front vents all the time.
    I notice this heater has been out because none of the original plastic and insulation is around the fan unit under the bonnet.
    Perhaps it just sucks hot air from the engine bay that does get pretty warm being so full of goodies.

    But if you guys assure me that once the hot water stops circulating the blown air is outside temp, I'll work from there.
    I will of course be hassling the local aircon bloke to swap the freezer drier and do a regas, after I've swapped all the O rings of course.
    I know this will be the ultimate solution but meanwhile I need to make sure the heater is truly off when intended.
    Thanks.
    Last edited by luthier; 20th February 2015 at 11:22 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by luthier View Post
    ...if you guys assure me that once the hot water stops circulating the blown air is outside temp, I'll work from there.
    Yup, as soon as the water stops circulating the hot air will stop melting your shoes. So your tap must be open at the moment still, even just a bit.

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    I don't know this particular beast, but I'd play it safe : if possible, somehow pinch off that heater pipe gently and completely. Then if you still get hot, it must mean that hot water is circulating back through the other pipe.

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    Quote Originally Posted by luthier View Post
    I notice this heater has been out because none of the original plastic and insulation is around the fan unit under the bonnet.
    Perhaps it just sucks hot air from the engine bay that does get pretty warm being so full of goodies.
    Try fixing that first

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    Quote Originally Posted by rj306 View Post
    Try fixing that first
    Not an option that I can see. Can't even work out where the intake is as it's all so crowded. I'd have to take it right out to see and that's not happening for now.

    No I'll take it from them as knows that the secret lies in a proper closing tap, thanks Thomevans. The solenoid is winging it's way as we speak. I'll get some threaded nozzles and clamp the hose on that. Clever idea and the default is heater off. That's good this end of the year for sure.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by luthier View Post
    I notice this heater has been out because none of the original plastic and insulation is around the fan unit under the bonnet.
    I'd missed this bit originally.

    It doesn't necessarily mean the heater has been out. People take that stuff off in order to clean the front of the air-con evaporator unit. They get a lot of dirt and fluff on the front of them and you find that even when the fan is on full, not much air comes out of the vents.

    The solution is to take off the plastic on the passenger side of the firewall (which then promptly disintegrates) and undo the rubber or plastic cover underneath that, on the front of the firewall, and clean the vanes of that little radiator with a small wire brush....then vacuum it all up.
    Not much room in there....you usually get a slightly bruised and battered forearm.

    Anyway, it may well be that the heat is coming from the engine bay. You'll soon find out ! Putting another valve in is the first step, and an easy one.

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    I like how dirty they can get on cars

  13. #13
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    Yes I think that job is coming up. I fitted a new isolator switch and the inside temp was much cooler for an hour or so but finally the temp of the car overall starts to climb and I'm getting a lot of heat from the leaky boot round the gearstick[it's a manual] and from the gearbox tunnel, so heat rising from the handbrake lever area. The small vents at foot level from either side of the gearbox tunnel also constantly emit some heat.
    The problem with all of this is there is no way in this car to have a strong vent of outside air down into the floor to clear any of the heat, so it just builds up.
    I'm thinking it was originally designed to have aircon so this probably needs to work. I'm looking into getting mine going. But I'm having daydreams of installing a fresh air hose intake running from the grill back and into the cab somehow. It's tight in there and a mod would need to be done to allow a tube into the cab, but it could be a very pleasant innovation. I love fresh air specially at highway speed. I get a bit from the vent to the right of the steering wheel but nowhere near enough. The design in this regard is surely flawed, but the car is a super cracker regardless.

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    I would suggest that the major problem causing unwanted hot air issuing from your heater are the flaps directing the air flow to either feet, shoulder vents or windscreen. These flaps have either a rubber, or foam, strip on their edges to ensure proper sealing which can deteriorate over time. As well they can lose their proper adjustment.
    My standard set-up 505 GTi does not suffer from your problem.

    Pavel.

  15. #15
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    Thanks Pavel, but if I have successfully cut off heat from the heater with a good isolator switch then no hot air could be coming from the actual heater. The direct vents to the right of the wheel show that this is the case and blow air from the outside with no extra heat.
    Therefore what is coming from the gearbox tunnel must be getting in by other ways that were not in the original plan.
    To work this out I must remove the centre console and the stuff round the gearbox tunnel. I reckon it's been off sometime and vents were not properly relocated.

  16. #16
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    I think the gearstick boot is the same as a 504 one and only sits on a small ridge. Sometimes when they get older they pop off, but usually they deteriorate and tear. Mostly the issue then becomes noise coming up.

    If you cannot get a genuine Pug one, I have twice fitted more sturdy ones from other cars, and screwed them on. You just need ones with a metal surround on top to hold them in place. Or even make a metal surround. The tunnel curvature is different but the metal surround can be persuaded with a hammer.
    Just eyeball it to get an idea of the general size and shape (and gearstick diameter), then go to a wrecker.

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