S16 radiator removal
  • Register
  • Help
Page 1 of 2 12 Last
Results 1 to 25 of 30
Like Tree6Likes

Thread: S16 radiator removal

  1. #1
    Fellow Frogger! Wintermute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    866

    Default S16 radiator removal

    So I finally got a new radiator and hoses for the S16. I've drained the coolant, taken out the battery box and removed the throttle body to get good access for the top half. But now I've gotten underneath to try and get the bottom hose off and well it don't look easy.

    It looks like removing the aircond compressor (I had to do this when doing the gearbox) might be necessary (though that is a right royal PITA) Is there a trick. Can I undo the far end and feed the thing through and lift the radiator with hose attached.

    Anyone done this on an S16?

    Why is everything on an S16 so bloody difficult!!

    Haynes manual simply says disconnect the bottom hose by twisting the locking tab and releasing the retaining clips.. that'd be ok if I could gain access!

    Advertisement


    Tony.
    FedGrapes likes this.
    306 S16 1995 black
    Morris 1100 1965 green

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts BIGRR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    North Rocks, Sydney
    Posts
    2,439

    Default

    Tony,

    when I removed the daughter's XSi I used a hammer and a long screw driver and from the top, smashed the plastic connection on the tank to bits. With a bit of fiddling I found I could refit the hose later too.
    Present fleet:-
    Peugeot 93' 205 Gti 16v
    Peugeot 73' 504 Ti from new
    Peugeot 08' 407 Hdi Coupe from new

    Previous fleet:-
    Peugeot 95' 605 Sv
    Peugeot 92' 205 Gti
    Renault 72' 16TS from new
    Renault 69' 10
    Renault 71' 10s
    Renault 68' 10 from new

    "Be reasonable do it my way!"


  3. #3
    Fellow Frogger! Wintermute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    866

    Default

    OK that sounds a little more destructive that I had in mind... I tried fitting the new hose to the new radiator before I do anything and it aint easy to get on (out of the car!!) so with the limited access I'm a bit concerned!!

    If the worst comes to worst I will drop the compressor, but from memory that is not an easy task!!

    Tony.
    306 S16 1995 black
    Morris 1100 1965 green

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! Wintermute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    866

    Default

    Even getting the lower hose off at the block is proving less than easy!! I guess after 20 years it is pretty solidly stuck

    I got top hose off and the ancillary hoses just above the bottom hose, but that bottom hose is proving difficult on either end... Half the front end of the car is off too I should have taken that extra day I was thinking about!!

    Tony.
    306 S16 1995 black
    Morris 1100 1965 green

  5. #5
    Fellow Frogger! Wintermute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    866

    Default

    perserverence is the key. (and new batteries in the torch!!) after replacing the batteries in the torch I could see a bit better, and was able to get the big screwdriver onto the twisty clamp. after getting that undone I got a small screwdriver to undo the clips retaining the hose, and then once again the big screwdriver to apply force to the hose around it's flange. Eventually it popped out! The radiator is now out

    Now I just need to get the other end of the bottom hose off (and the little fellow too, seems though it is a different size on the block end which puts a bit of a dent in my plan to replace that little hose with some 3/4 hose...

    Tony.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails S16 radiator removal-20150131_172740.jpg   S16 radiator removal-20150131_172351.jpg  
    306 S16 1995 black
    Morris 1100 1965 green

  6. #6
    Fellow Frogger! Wintermute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    866

    Default

    Well the bottom hose still isn't off. I decided to tackle the top ones for a change. Ended up taking the variable manifold off (glad I did). The top hoses were a bitch too! But I think I worked out how to get the bottom one off now. Vice grips on the hose itself and twist it around, breaks the glued on crud.

    I've got another issue as well. The new radiator doesn't have the bung on the nearside end. I didn't have a big enough allen key (which I thought I did as I'd tried the thing when I got the previous radiator that I returned). Anyway me being stupid decided rather than waiting till repco or supercheap open tomorrow and going and buying the right size allen key tried to take it off by gripping the outside with the vice grips.

    Only problem is the original radiator (unlike the new one) seems to have the brass bit protuding above the plastic, and I think I gripped only both the bung and the brass and unstuck the brass in the rad. Now the whole thing just spins around... It might be ok if I get the right sized allen key, but hopefully repco will have a new bung. I think I cracked the old rad trying to get it out as well, so it aint going back in!

    you can see from the pics that the hoses were marginal at best!! cleaning up the thermostat housing fittings and the piece of tube between the top hose and the thermo housing. The yellow arrow shows where the bung goes.

    Tony.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails S16 radiator removal-20150131_190709.jpg   S16 radiator removal-20150131_191653.jpg   S16 radiator removal-20150131_192610.jpg  
    306 S16 1995 black
    Morris 1100 1965 green

  7. #7
    Member mclouj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Vic Park WA
    Posts
    45

    Default

    Gee this sounds like fun. I'm probably going to have to do this to mine fairly soon as the hoses look to be in worse condition than yours Tony.

    Where did you source your sexy silicon hoses from?
    1994 306 S16 Diablo Red
    2007 307 HDI 1.6 Wagon
    2005 Clio 182 F1 #29

  8. #8
    Fellow Frogger! Wintermute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    866

    Default

    I got them from samcosport.com.au Note that they are listed as for an XSI but the UK sites list them as a MK1V S16 they are definitely for 1994-1996 S16's though Peugeot 306 XSi 1997 - 2000 (5) Coolant Hose Kit TCS-30/C

    There are five hoses in all in the kit, but I'm not sure how to use the other two. They are for the heater matrix, but do not have the connector that plugs into the bulkhead. My heater is currently bypassed anyway.

    Note that there is a set on ebay for $56 cheaper. I wanted mine quickly and hadn't had a response to a query about the hose clips so got them from samcosport. They were delivered quickly. When I looked at UK sources after exchange rate there was not much difference in price.

    The lower hose I got from Rexbo in Germany https://www.rexbo.eu/gates/radiator-...100100&at=3442 which is also where I got the radiator (valeo), but note that it is only the big one not the small one that is routed along with it (though the pictures show both hoses). Perhaps I should query it, though I bought it a number of months ago now...

    I've also checked and there are three other small hoses at the back of the engine too. a u shaped one, a short one (about 10cm long and a really short one about 2cm long). I guess at some point I should try and source those too, but none of them are available from peugeot.

    I just have to track down a new bung. Valeo sell them, but in boxes of 10, maybe a radiator place... other alternative would be a fan switch I guess (which is apparently what it is for), as I can probably get one from repco I suspect.

    Tony.
    mclouj likes this.
    306 S16 1995 black
    Morris 1100 1965 green

  9. #9
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Don't remind me!
    Posts
    16,609

    Default

    A threaded plug? What size thread? I may have a spare.

  10. #10
    Fellow Frogger! Wintermute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    866

    Default

    Hi Addo, it's 22mm I believe. caliper says 20mm but thats to the ridges so 22mm is probably correct

    Tony.
    306 S16 1995 black
    Morris 1100 1965 green

  11. #11
    Fellow Frogger! Wintermute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    866

    Default

    Got the bung out. Had to destroy the old radiator (and get correct 12mm hex socket). It was coroded in and what had happed was the brass insert (hex) turned in the plastic which after 20 years is rotten.

    Only problem now is I need to get an o-ring for it, original has a brass washer but I don't think that will cut it with the new radiator. Maybe some teflon tape and it might be ok, but I suspect I need to find an o-ring.. 20mm inside diameter should do it.

    Tony.
    306 S16 1995 black
    Morris 1100 1965 green

  12. #12
    Member mclouj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Vic Park WA
    Posts
    45

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Wintermute View Post
    I got them from samcosport.com.au Note that they are listed as for an XSI but the UK sites list them as a MK1V S16 they are definitely for 1994-1996 S16's though Peugeot 306 XSi 1997 - 2000 (5) Coolant Hose Kit TCS-30/C
    Thanks for the link. I think I have looked at those previously, but wasn't sure if they were correct.
    1994 306 S16 Diablo Red
    2007 307 HDI 1.6 Wagon
    2005 Clio 182 F1 #29

  13. #13
    Fellow Frogger! Wintermute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    866

    Default

    No probs. I hate working on French cars!! I decided that since the bottom hose looks in good condition I would put the original back on. Too much grief trying to get it off, and I want the car going tomorrow. Do you think I can get it back on to the radiator?

    It looks like it needs a huge amount of force to get it to go on (I had tried with the new hose on the rad before and it didn't want to go in). There isn't enough room to get the sort of force needed. it goes in up to the o-ring and then needs to go an additional 4-5mm but I just can't get it past the o-ring. I put some glycol on it to try and lubricate it but no go.

    I'm pretty sure the keyway is in the right place or it wouldn't go on as far as it has.

    I guess I have to try and find a way to get some leverage in there.

    Tony.
    306 S16 1995 black
    Morris 1100 1965 green

  14. #14
    1000+ Posts lion5's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    1,675

    Default

    what kind of o-ring does it take? flat or round? only 20mm id oring i have is in rubber, and it's flat
    my copper crusher set goes up to M18 only, which wouldve worked.
    and i have no flat metal ones at that size

  15. #15
    Fellow Frogger! Wintermute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    866

    Default

    Apparently it is all in the technique!! I went back out, tried the new O-Ring no differrence, had a look at the old radiator with the new hose. put the oring only part way onto the hose wiggled until it went in then pressed home.. I decided to reuse the old O-Ring (maybe a mistake) but the damn thing is back in now. Now just have to hook up the other two pipes and I can start putting the rest of the car back together!!

    Tony.
    306 S16 1995 black
    Morris 1100 1965 green

  16. #16
    Fellow Frogger! Wintermute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    866

    Default

    Hi lion5 I went to bunnings and got a bunch of O-rings closest was 18.6mm ID it stretched on ok. The other option was a 23mm ID fibrous washer. I'm hoping the undersized O-Ring will be ok. The original was a flat copper washer.. I'll find out soon enough if I need to do something different!! luckily for me, most daily trips are just long enough for the car to get up to temp which is how I have got away with it so far..

    Tony.
    306 S16 1995 black
    Morris 1100 1965 green

  17. #17
    1000+ Posts lion5's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    1,675

    Default

    lol, thats exactly how i found out about my 205 cooling issue

  18. #18
    Fellow Frogger! Wintermute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    866

    Default

    Thought I'd post an update. I decided to call it quits for the night once I had everything hooked back up and the car is able to be started.

    I think this new radiator must have higher capacity than the old one (or the cooling system holds more than I thought). It took 7L before I got any coolant coming out of the bleed screw on the thermostat (and that is without a header bottle installed).

    I'm glad I bought the 5L bottle of concentrate rather that the 2.5L one.

    Tomorrow have to put the windscreen washer bottle back in and also the headlights and grill. Also need to do a proper bleed with a header bottle.

    Note to self, Don't start the engine with the bleed screws open (unless you want coolant everywhere under the bonnet)

    Tony.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails S16 radiator removal-20150201_144139.jpg   S16 radiator removal-20150201_144153.jpg  
    Last edited by Wintermute; 1st February 2015 at 10:40 PM. Reason: add some pics
    306 S16 1995 black
    Morris 1100 1965 green

  19. #19
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Don't remind me!
    Posts
    16,609

    Default

    Actually, that is how it's done. Seriously.
    FedGrapes likes this.

  20. #20
    Fellow Frogger! Wintermute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    866

    Default

    Really?? I always have done it with a header tank which is higher than the highest bleed screw. Then fill with coolant and let it run out until there are no bubbles. But without the engine running...

    I had brought the bleed screws out till you can see the hole in the side. The coolant was literally spurting out!!

    Tony.
    306 S16 1995 black
    Morris 1100 1965 green

  21. #21
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Don't remind me!
    Posts
    16,609

    Default

    Normally, start the car with all open, close from lowest to highest when they cease to expel air. But the heads are really hard to bleed and won't purge properly with the motor off and no pump pressure.

    With the brass bleeders, you really only need about 2mm of thread exposed; just enough to get coolant showing - doesn't need to be a geyser.
    SLC206 likes this.

  22. #22
    Fellow Frogger! Wintermute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    866

    Default

    OK yes it would have emptied all of the coolant in a couple of minutes with the rate it was coming out! I'll try again with a little less screw thread showing!

    But I'll still do the passive bit first

    BTW I hate aluminum radiators too. Already have messed up the fins on the nearside trying to get the inlet pipe back in (even though strictly I don't need it since I have a pod filter anyway. I should have put it in before I put the top hose on and filled it with coolant, but them's the breaks). Sigh.

    Tony.
    FedGrapes likes this.
    306 S16 1995 black
    Morris 1100 1965 green

  23. #23
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Don't remind me!
    Posts
    16,609

    Default

    Sure, pre-bleed as you were doing; it'll save time after you start the motor - but the final difference between the two results is night and day especially on the heads.

    If you rinse off (undried) spilt coolant with the kettle, the hot water seems to remove it more effectively.

  24. #24
    Fellow Frogger! Wintermute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    866

    Default

    OK Thanks for the tips addo!!
    306 S16 1995 black
    Morris 1100 1965 green

  25. #25
    Fellow Frogger! FedGrapes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    835

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by addo View Post
    Normally, start the car with all open, close from lowest to highest when they cease to expel air. But the heads are really hard to bleed and won't purge properly with the motor off and no pump pressure.

    With the brass bleeders, you really only need about 2mm of thread exposed; just enough to get coolant showing - doesn't need to be a geyser.
    This is the way I did the S16. Next time I'll have a more absorbent rag on hand!

Page 1 of 2 12 Last

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •