Mi16 "Running Hot" issue
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Thread: Mi16 "Running Hot" issue

  1. #1
    Member renard argente's Avatar
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    Default Mi16 "Running Hot" issue

    Mes amis,

    So, my 1.9 Series 1 started to run quite hot & cabin smelt of anti freeze. Checked for leaks around radiator & associated pipes + (gulp) under the heater. Phew, no heater leaks or signs of leaks in engine. Hmm.

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    Off to favourite mechanic for a pressure test which showed small holes in lower corners of radiator + 1 of the heater hose's ends were crazed. Of course, like many Euros, you can't buy replacement elbows etc to fix the problem but keeping the functioning radiator.

    So, new radiator fitted by favourite mechanic along with new anti freeze who suggested to keep an eye on level of fluid & top-up if need be.

    Hmm. Forgot to ask him to flush the system, so I drained it - with heater on - filled with clean water then ran radiator flush for 30 minutes. Before refilling with anti freeze, take test run. Water temperature gauge now showing MAX temperature: i.e. beginning to boil!! Fans running furiously. Tried a couple of more runs with same result. !!!!

    No point in taking back to favourite mechanic who'd only take it to the well-known radiator/cooling/air-con company, so, leaving home pre-traffic & very gingerly with bonnet propped open but strapped down, off to aforementioned radiator / cooling system outfit.

    1 air lock + a reverse flush + new anti freeze + a new thermostat to replace the 1 that had "lost" (!!) its triangular shaped brass "bit" in which the centre rod is supposed to be housed + a suggestion that it might run a bit hotter, later, off home I went.

    Now, prior to whole this episode, the Mi ran at about 70 - 75/80 degrees, climbing to 90-ish on really hot days. It now runs 85 - 90, climbing quickly to high 90s - 100+ in traffic during the recent hot & humid conditions

    Any suggestions please as to what might be causing this concerning rise in operating temps, especially in traffic? Pardon my ignorance, but don't thermostats come in temperature ranges according to the marque's specs? Maybe the radiator / cooling system outfit have fitted an incorrect part.

    Your assistance would be greatly appreciated.

    Merci

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts pgti6's Avatar
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    Did favourite mechanic bleed the cooling system to purge out the air?
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  3. #3
    Member renard argente's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pgti6 View Post
    Did favourite mechanic bleed the cooling system to purge out the air?
    Don't know as I didn't & haven't asked him, but, I witnessed the "specialist" cooling system chap do it.

  4. #4
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    Perhaps you previously had a 82 degree thermostat fitted and now have an 89.

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    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    You have a blown headgasket, probably from either the gasket corroding away or corrosion to the head's sealing face itself.

    For the short term, bypass the heater and try some "silver seal" or similar. Start ordering in the parts to fix it properly.

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    I wouldn't bag the headgasket just yet. Mi's can be a pain to bleed and can take 2-3 go's over 2-3 days before temp settles back to normal. 88lp also makes a fair point that a later opening temp thermostat was fitted, although if you have the original thermostat housing with no adapter plate only 1 thermostat fits.
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    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    If you completely open the two bleed screws and fill with coolant, the majority of any air will be removed, as the two screws are the highest points in the system. Fit the screws, start it, warm it up and wait for the coolant to stream via the bleed holes and usually the job is done.

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    In my experience using a header tank greatly helps the bleeding process, but even so a couple of goes are often a good idea to make sure all air is removed- if not an 'air lock' could produce symptoms you've described. Bleed again should be your next move.
    A poor seal of the radiator cap is a common cause too, a simple problem easily fixed but you have to think to look. If you're still using the old radiator cap I'd suggest replacing it, or if new try the old one again.

  9. #9
    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    The Mi16 has a header tank.

    '92 205 Mi16
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterT View Post
    The Mi16 has a header tank.
    Thanks, couldn't remember if it did or not.

  11. #11
    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    Most people don't realise the side of the radiator is a header tank.
    addo likes this.

    '92 205 Mi16
    '90 Mi16x4

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    Member renard argente's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterT View Post
    If you completely open the two bleed screws and fill with coolant, the majority of any air will be removed, as the two screws are the highest points in the system. Fit the screws, start it, warm it up and wait for the coolant to stream via the bleed holes and usually the job is done.
    Thanks PeterT, but I - & possibly both mechanics - only found a bleed valve on top of the thermostat housing. Where is the other please?

  13. #13
    Member renard argente's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterT View Post
    If you completely open the two bleed screws and fill with coolant, the majority of any air will be removed, as the two screws are the highest points in the system. Fit the screws, start it, warm it up and wait for the coolant to stream via the bleed holes and usually the job is done.
    Quote Originally Posted by Pee Dubs View Post
    In my experience using a header tank greatly helps the bleeding process, but even so a couple of goes are often a good idea to make sure all air is removed- if not an 'air lock' could produce symptoms you've described. Bleed again should be your next move.
    A poor seal of the radiator cap is a common cause too, a simple problem easily fixed but you have to think to look. If you're still using the old radiator cap I'd suggest replacing it, or if new try the old one again.
    Thanks Pee Dubs. The old radiator cap has been re-used & is rather difficult to get off & back on, so will get a new one just in case.

    Will re-bleed when PeterT advises where the 2nd bleed valve is.

    In the meantime, THANKS to everyone for your input, even if talk of a blown head gasket caused palpatations

  14. #14
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    The bleeders are above your thermostat housing, and at the back of the head where a transfer tube runs left to right. There's also the radiator left side tank top bleed screw.

    And I still think your head gasket is going.

  15. #15
    Member renard argente's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by addo View Post
    The bleeders are above your thermostat housing, and at the back of the head where a transfer tube runs left to right. There's also the radiator left side tank top bleed screw.
    And I still think your head gasket is going.
    An update:

    Bled the cooling system from the screw / valve on top of the thermostat housing. No bleed screw on new radiator's header tank & too much plumbing at bulkhead side of engine to locate the transfer tube's screw.

    Never the less, an interesting exercise. Splurted as to be expected with some gaps with no fluid run-off. Then remembered to open the heater. Quite a delay before the jolly green fluid began to splurt again. Ran for a while till fluid started running reasonably constant.

    Will now monitor temperature over the next couple of days &, subject to that, will bleed some more if needed.

    No offence addo, but, in this instance & as you'll appreciate, I HOPE that you're wrong re a blown head gasket.

    Merci buckets mes amis for your help.

  16. #16
    Contented Peugeot Driver addo's Avatar
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    The heater is in constant loop, turning the heat off or on has no bearing on water flow through it.

    I'll photograph the bleed points otherwise described - wondering if you were not given quite the correct radiator.

    No offence taken either; it's usually something I have in surfeit and give generously to others. My PRV has settled at an "equilibrium" state for the time being with its BHG; still too hot but an underfilled expansion tank is meaning it no longer purges half a litre of coolant each day. That was getting expensive.

  17. #17
    1000+ Posts lion5's Avatar
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    from haynes:
    other bleed screws on those radiators look different but are usually located at hte top somewhere.. i saw another saxo VTS thread with the bleed screw not in the exact same position, but very lose to there
    Mi16 "Running Hot" issue-screen-shot-2015-01-26-12.37.23-pm-1.png

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