intermediate bearing condition
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  1. #1
    1000+ Posts lion5's Avatar
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    Default intermediate bearing condition

    i got my drive shafts out, i just wanna know if its worth replacing the intermediate bearing. It rotates very freely - i'm not sure how stiff it's meant to be. Which is my main question.

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/lionus/15557752131/

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    When i drove the car the only steering related sounds I heard were when I steering was fully locked, and it would squeak/howl at every wheel rotation, it seemed harmless. I've yet to open the cv shafts and look at wear on them, but I only thought about that intermediate bearing just today.

  2. #2
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    It's meant to be firm when new with semi liquid grease, but as it ages it becomes more free, when the grease hardens and 'dries' and is pushed away from the balls so they aren't lubed. Yours sounds like it really should be replaced if you're doing the rest of the shaft as the balls sound quite dry; otherwise it'll probably mean you'll have to replace it before you have to do anything else to the shafts, and that'll be a pain!

    Best test for CV's is to go on full lock each way in an empty car park and do slow circles. The joints will make a repeated clacking sound when they're knackered.

    As for the noise on full lock, that sounds like a power steering belt slipping, which is common and nothing to worry about unless it's really excessive.


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  3. #3
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    Try moveing the outer race of the bearing 90 degrees to its direction of rotation [from side to side ].if theres movement its not good ,pugs

  4. #4
    Fellow Frogger! boodek's Avatar
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    That does look like it spins a bit freely, properly lubricated bearings should be much stickier than that. As Pugwash says, check for wear and if there is no movement or visible wear to balls and races, you then have the option of popping out the seal between the races and repacking with a quality bearing grease.
    Having said that, it might be just as easy to pull it off the shaft and head to your local bearing shop to see if they can match it.
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  5. #5
    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    It's a $6 bearing. If you've got the driveshaft out of the car replace it.

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  6. #6
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Replace just to save yourself future (bad) headaches. I took mine to a driveshaft shop just to save myself the pain of taking the stop ring out (which simply didn't budge with copious amounts of heat and swearing). It's a 5 minute job for them but be careful they don't hammer the bejesus out of your driveshaft to get it out.

    You can take out the inner joint or have them do that one as well (and replace the boot while they're at it). 20$ or so.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

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  7. #7
    1000+ Posts lion5's Avatar
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    well i figured I may as well do it and know that they're cheap. But was just really after knowing precisely what a good and or bad intermediate bearing would sound like. I don't want to blindly replace things left right and centre, or at least if i'm doing that would like to be able to know for future what it's like for that part to go bad. I think Stuey is right it was kind of dry sounding. And when i checked for any other play it was minimal to none.

    The CVs were fine from when i drove it around, that whine must be the power steering like you say which is what I had assumed as it was fitted by the prev owner with power steering.

    I just repacked the other drive shaft, was fun and easy especially after losing one of the cylindrical rollers, then finding it again in the bin in one of the rags.. I think getting to the boots on this would require pressing that bearing out anyway. If it's easy enough i'll do it myself, dont mind spending a bit of extra time. And just did some reading and it sounds reasonably easy, just need to buy some long threads.

    The transmission end of the drivers side wobbles excessively too
    Last edited by lion5; 18th October 2014 at 11:52 PM.

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