fitting hub carrier 205
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  1. #1
    1000+ Posts lion5's Avatar
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    Default fitting hub carrier 205

    while im waiting for parts i want to fit the new hub carrier in with the calipers and all that to see if the 14s are good enough.

    On the strut there's a welded piece of metal which looks like a fat T with the lower part of the T wedged in between the hub ends. Is this for alignment? Because it's incredibly difficult getting the hub back into the strut since im starting all the way down the bottom. Is there an easier way of fitting the hub carrier back in without hammering it in (with barely any hammering space)?

    I tried wedging a cold chisel in between there similar to the tool PEUGEOT STRUT NUT TOOL HUB CLAMP SPLITTERS 5mm 5.5mm | eBay using my 10mm socket in the cold chisel, but it doesn't help all that much.

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  2. #2
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    Take the entire strut out of the car, it is much easier to work on then.
    Yes, use the chisel.
    Quote Originally Posted by lion5 View Post
    while im waiting for parts i want to fit the new hub carrier in with the calipers and all that to see if the 14s are good enough.

    On the strut there's a welded piece of metal which looks like a fat T with the lower part of the T wedged in between the hub ends. Is this for alignment? Because it's incredibly difficult getting the hub back into the strut since im starting all the way down the bottom. Is there an easier way of fitting the hub carrier back in without hammering it in (with barely any hammering space)?

    I tried wedging a cold chisel in between there similar to the tool PEUGEOT STRUT NUT TOOL HUB CLAMP SPLITTERS 5mm 5.5mm | eBay using my 10mm socket in the cold chisel, but it doesn't help all that much.

  3. #3
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    I take it you don't have the Haynes manual. Well, for once they had a good tip. Find an allen key that barely fits on the flats in the split. Insert to convenient depth in the split. Twist on the tips to spread the split.

    My tip is to use a socket type allen key. The breaker bar handle helps twisting it around with precision and no effort so you can find the equilibrium point easily. Some WD40 doesn't hurt.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

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  4. #4
    1000+ Posts lion5's Avatar
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    Thanks

    I do... I guess i must have missed that part. I read the section a few times hoping there may be a hint there seemed to be none when I checked...

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Well, now I am not so sure anymore. Maybe it's in the 405 manual (Haynes). One of them.
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

  6. #6
    1000+ Posts lion5's Avatar
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    you're correct. It was the 405 haynes, just checked it. 205 haynes just had "wedge something inbetween it". Either case, if I had half a brain i would have thought to grab an allen key. It worked

    And the 14s fit with the calipers!!

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts schlitzaugen's Avatar
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    Well done. Worked for me the first time too (when I actually worked on wife's Mi16). WD40 is also the best assistant for nearly everything (including cleaning white jeans soiled with engine oil - don't ask).
    ACHTUNG ALLES LOOKENPEEPERS

    Das computermachine is nicht fur gefingerpoken und mittengrabben. Ist easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitssparken. Ist nicht fur gewerken bei das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen hands in das pockets-relaxen und watch das blinkenlights.

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