205 engine removal questions
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  1. #1
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    Default 205 engine removal questions

    I nearly have it ready to pull out but I am stuck on a few things that would be quicker to ask instead of fiddling about to see if anyone has any tricks.

    1. Those stupid hockey sticks on the longer drive shaft. Peter and Cam warned me about them but I'm still stuck. I have turned them every way but can't see how they free the drive shaft. As the motor is coming out can I just take the whole mount off the engine with the drive shaft attached?

    2. The shorter gear linkage. Do they just pop off the ball joint bit with pressure or how else do I separate it from the gearbox?

    3. The hose/cable going into the top of where the long drive shaft enters the diff housing. What is it and how do I get it off without snapping it?

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    Other than that I have everything else off ready to go.

  2. #2
    1000+ Posts PeterT's Avatar
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    1. If you've loosened the hockey sticks you should be able to turn them 180 deg., so they no longer retain the bearing. If the shaft still won't budge, use a copper dolly to hit behind the bearing retainer. Sometimes the bearing may just be stuck in the aluminium housing.

    2. Use a spanner or shifter to twist the linkage off the ball.

    3. Speedo cable? Remove the rubber pin, sitting perpendicular to the cable. It should should then lift straight out vertically.

    '92 205 Mi16
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  3. #3
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    Hi,

    Not sure if these are the same as on an Mi16 but last time I was asked I recommended the bolt on the hockey sticks are loosened more than usually recommended:

    "Then get under the car to release the centre bearing - see para 10? That's where I meant that you have to loosen the nuts until they're 8mm or so from the end. See pics 2.10a and 2.10b - the latter is the picture of the housing after the bearing's been removed - see the tabs turned downwards?

    When the nuts are this loose, you can push the bolts in until the nuts are against the aluminium mount, and turn them so the tabs holding the bearing aren't in the way. (These are 'L' shaped on the end of the bolt and swing onto the bearing outer track to hold it in place.)"


    2003 PEUGEOT 206 GTi

  4. #4
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    Maybe it just needs a thump like Peter said. I have the nuts off completely and can move the bolts by hand through the 180 but the bearing doesn't move one bit even tugging on the drive shaft like a maniac so thought I might see IF I can just drop the whole mount off the back.

    I thought it was the speedo cable but everything was covered in grease. I saw that rubber plug and thought it was a cap covering so I will pull that out tonight I hope.

  5. #5
    1000+ Posts lion5's Avatar
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    When i was removing my gear linkages I had to use a lot of force to pry the small one off. I used an open ended spanner like Peter says as a kind of ball joint splitter. I tried from top then under and top and eventually got it out someway, but it was stubborn. my long one was also tough while the middle one popped off with my hand as it was broken anyway.

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  6. #6
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    I undid one from underneath leaving the ball joint in place as it was screwed onto the lever. I was trying to lever the short one with a screwdriver but had no luck getting enough leverage with the grease and oil. On to the spanner!

  7. #7
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    Nearly there. Everything is disconnected except that damn bearing won't budge. I can see the ends poking out fine and free of the bearing but it doesn't budge even after a few whacks. I tried to pull the whole mount off the back of the engine but it wouldn't move much either. Now I have the engine mounts free I think I will try to pull the lot out I one go. The battery tray is stuck 2 so I guess I angle around it?

  8. #8
    1000+ Posts lion5's Avatar
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    the battery tray that sits right over the gearbox?

    what do you mean stuck? Could you get the 4 bolts out? easily? Or are they seized.

  9. #9
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    I can't get to the 2 bottom bolts. I just found them as I thought the tray may have been welded at the bottom initially. Gearbox is in the way to get to them so I thought I might be able to drop that end and lift the other to clear the tray. I might be making things harder for myself.

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    1000+ Posts lion5's Avatar
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    no its definitely possible to get to them. You need to take the wheel out and go at it from that end, it's impossible to get it any other way, I assume you already have that out given what you're doing. Even with the gearbox at its proper height it's possible to do them. I can't even remember exactly what I used, but the bolt closest to the front of the car (your left when you are facing the engine bay) you need a ratcheting spanner to do it. And even then you literally get 1 click to play with.

    The one to the back of the car (your right when facing the engine bay) I used a u-joint and an extension (or even just a u-joint). Point is they aren't anything fancy.

    They are the same size as the top bolts (15 or 16mm from the flats can't remember now). I've switched mine around 3 times because i'm a loon and broke studs on them

    Plenty of penetrating spray + aiming straw as well.

  11. #11
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    Go and buy a 3/8 drive socket set to get the bolts out.

    Quote Originally Posted by Warus View Post
    I can't get to the 2 bottom bolts. I just found them as I thought the tray may have been welded at the bottom initially. Gearbox is in the way to get to them so I thought I might be able to drop that end and lift the other to clear the tray. I might be making things harder for myself.

  12. #12
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    Got mine out with a uni-joint and socket. Have done it many times this way. It's just a matter of finding the right working angle.

    It helps if everything else is clear too, but gearbox can definitely stay on. I seem to remember giving myself a little extra room by lowering the passagner side of the engine down using an engine crane.

  13. #13
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    I have the crane attached and the leveller biased to give the drivers side maximum lift in an attempt to lower gearbox. It's successful to some extent but still not enough room with my gear. Tried a 3/8th socket too with no luck. Must be the uni joint that does it so shopping I will go.

  14. #14
    1000+ Posts lion5's Avatar
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    I used a 1/4th socket the 3/8th was too big.

  15. #15
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    Are you sure you've removed the lower engine mount?
    I did this the other day with 3/8 sockets and no universal, no problem at all.

    Quote Originally Posted by Warus View Post
    I have the crane attached and the leveller biased to give the drivers side maximum lift in an attempt to lower gearbox. It's successful to some extent but still not enough room with my gear. Tried a 3/8th socket too with no luck. Must be the uni joint that does it so shopping I will go.

  16. #16
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    Got it with an open spanner 2 clicks at a time. Once it moved I could get enough leverage at an odd angle to put the ratchet spanner on and click slowly away. Thanks for the help. Still can't budge that damn driveshaft bearing though. Feels like it's bolted on! Lifted the engine a bit for a better look and it's definitely undone. Working on taking the whole mount off the engine now with bearing and driveshaft attached.

  17. #17
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    Heres a shot showing the bearing that won't budge


  18. #18
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    Approach from the passengers side. There is a ring on the driveshaft that's about 6 to 8 mm bigger than the driveshaft. Using a drift, really hard bit of wood etc and hit it. Will push the driveshaft bearing out.

    I would put the bolt back in the lower mount to stop the engine swaying around.
    Adrian Wuillemin

  19. #19
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    Definitely buy a new hose to block connection piece, these can be got for a pretty good price on Ebay at the moment.

    Quote Originally Posted by Warus View Post
    Heres a shot showing the bearing that won't budge


  20. #20
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    Yeah the whole cooling system is looking tired. Guess that happens when filled with water and not driven for a few years. I will replace all the rusting pieces. This was the water Colour

  21. #21
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    Argh it won't budge. Not even a tiny bit. Can't lever the mount from the engine either. It's the only thing preventing the engine coming out. I'm getting desperate now. Any other ideas? I have belted it with hammer and wood and nothing

  22. #22
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    Try a lever between the mount and driveshaft. Put a big screwdriver either side and lever it. It will just be the outer of the bearing seized in the aluminium housing.
    Adrian Wuillemin

  23. #23
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    Tried that. It started to bend the edge of the rim of the driveshaft next to the mount. Is it possible to cut the driveshaft through the rubber joint bit and get another?

  24. #24
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    I'd be trying to saw off the hockey stick heads first, just in case they are somehow still obstructing.

    Then I'd probably clamp a small bench vice onto the inner section of driveshaft up against the bearing stop collar and belt that with a lump hammer.

  25. #25
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    Got it out! Ended up using chisels as a wedge to get the mount off the 2 dowels on the block then hammered the whole lot out with the mount still attached.




    looks like a little bit of carbon inside


    engine mount a mess

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